Journal of a Horticultural Tour through Germany, Belgium, and part of France, in the Autumn of 1835. Forbes James
in the evenings.
After getting my passport examined and signed, and securing a place in the diligence for Berlin, I next accompanied Mr. Booth the seedsman, (brother to the nursery man,) in a drive round the outskirts of the town, where there are some pretty villas, and also various tea gardens, which, although a week day, appeared to be well attended. I was rather surprised to find at 5 o'clock in the afternoon, a large concourse of ladies and gentlemen assembled in front of a small theatrical performance, which it appeared was the daily practice in that part of the country, the ladies being occupied sewing and knitting, and others drinking coffee. The town of Hamburgh is said to contain above a hundred thousand inhabitants, and they certainly appeared to me to be in a very flourishing state. In short the general appearance and respectability of the inhabitants, that prevailed throughout the town and its vicinity was very striking. At eight o'clock in the evening, I took my departure from Hamburgh, by the Schnell-post, (diligence) for Berlin, which was accomplished in one day and two nights travelling; here I had a good specimen of diligence expedition, especially for the first eight hours, being placed in one of the bye chaises, which is only calculated to hold four passengers, and is of much less dimensions than the main diligence, and much lighter; I fully expected every moment to be upset, as a great part of this road between Hamburgh and Boisenburgh, is full of large deep ruts that kept us completely on the rock for many miles, but after we passed the latter town, we then had an excellent road, yet the speed of our crawling conveyance was but very little increased. The roads throughout all the Prussian territories that I have travelled on, appeared to be in excellent repair.
August 25th. Arrived at a small town called Ludwigslust, about one o'clock, where we dined, and stopped nearly an hour, which enabled me to make a hasty visit to the grounds, attached to the beautiful palace of the grand Duke of Mecklenburgh, who generally resides here. In front of the palace are pretty jets of water, but the most imposing sight, is a fine avenue of limes, that leads from a large piece of lawn adjoining the palace; the avenue appeared to be nearly a mile in length, and had several walks branching from the right and left, through a shrubbery, or rather plantation, where there were also several small pieces of water. Close to the palace is an old orangery, with some good trees standing in front of it. At a short distance, and nearly opposite to the palace, is a handsome building, called the "Augusta Villa," with an extensive piece of pleasure ground, laid out after the English mode of gardening, with numerous clumps of trees, and shrubs dispersed on the lawn; the walks and grounds appeared to be in very good order, but I was unable to examine the extent of the collection of plants that it contained. In the vicinity of Ludwigslust, there were several orchards, and large pieces of ground under vegetable culture. The country from this town as far as Warnow, was rather more varied than that we previously passed, but the soil appeared light and sandy, and Scotch firs, the only trees observed in the plantations in view. At Warnow our luggage was examined by the police, and our passports demanded, and detained until we arrived in the town of Perlebergh, when they were again examined, and then returned to us.
August 26th. Arrived at half past three, A. M. at Nauen, a small town about twenty five English miles from Berlin; this place appeared conspicuous, from the number of small flour mills, situated in the river Havel, which passes close to the town. About 6 o'clock in the morning, we had reached to a small town, called Spandau, which is said to contain about 5000 inhabitants, and appeared to be strongly fortified: it is only ten miles distant from Berlin, where we happily arrived at about 8 o'clock in the morning. As we approached the city, the country looked more cheerful, and in a better state of cultivation, the soil also was of a more fertile quality, and trees and plantations more numerous. I was very much pleased by observing growing by the road side, several species of Alpine plants which are not easily to be met with in this country, in an indigenous state. The Gentiana Pneumonanthe, appeared in great abundance, and with its brilliant blue flowers was to me pleasingly conspicuous; but the diligence, although slow, was yet too fast to allow me time to procure a few specimens. On passing the magnificent palace of Charlottenburg, I was much struck with its extensive appearance, and fine park, leading from it all the way to Berlin, through the Brandenburg gate, and along the Linden or lime tree walk, to the splendid university, armoury, museum, and other large buildings, and handsome bridges, with the statues placed on them, its magnificent palaces, which all appear in view from the diligence, by this the Hamburgh line of road, and to the eye of a stranger has a grand effect, giving him the idea of a great and noble city, by seeing so many magnificent buildings immediately as he enters the town. Within a few stages of Berlin I met with Mr. Parker, Bookseller, from Oxford, travelling in the main Diligence, where I joined him; on our arrival in the city, we took up our abode, in the St. Petersburgh hotel, after breakfast we separated, he in search of books, while I went to visit the Royal Botanic Gardens at Schoenburgh, which are situated about three English miles from Berlin, where I was much gratified by the many fine specimens of plants that I saw. Having letters of introduction to M. Otto, from Sir W. Hooker and Dr. Lindley, as well as from his old friend Mr. Hunneman, I experienced the greatest attention from him, he took great pains in pointing out to me the various new and curious plants in this extensive collection. There were some very fine species of Palms, in great beauty, nearly reaching to the top of the hothouse, which is about thirty feet in height. The Latania borbonica, was particularly fine, and had attained nearly twenty five feet in height, its foliage or fronds extending from ten to twelve feet on each side from its stem. The Gomutus saccharifer, had also reached to the height of twenty five feet, and numerous other choice specimens of the Palmæ, were in an equally healthy and luxuriant state, and of little less dimensions than those specified. The Aristolochia brasiliensis was particularly fine, covered with long beautiful speckled flowers, that extended over a large part of the rafters. Many new and fine specimens of the Gesneras were also in flower; they appeared different from any that I had previously seen in this country. Some of the Melaleucas; in the conservatory had grown to the height of nearly forty feet; the Magnolia grandiflora, which requires the protection of the conservatory during the winter months was now covered with fine large flowers. Numerous other species of New Holland plants, had grown to an amazing height in the conservatory.
The hothouses in this garden are placed in several separate ranges, and are very substantially built in comparison to our erections in England. The quantity of timber employed in the rafters is immense, but giving them a very heavy appearance; yet I have rarely met with a more healthy collection of plants anywhere; they may be considered the most extensive on the continent of Europe. In short, I never before saw so many plants cultivated in pots. The numerous species of New Holland and Cape genera were quite astonishing, as well as the hardy and Alpine species. As to the Cacteæ, there can be no hesitation in saying that the collection in these gardens of this curious tribe of plants really comprises the most beautifully grown specimens that I have ever seen; the different species that have grown to a considerable size have a very interesting appearance, particularly the Mammillaria and Echinocactus tribes; with their numerous spines and angles, they form a pleasing object either in or out of flower. M. Otto has long been celebrated for his ardent love to this curious tribe of plants, and he certainly has succeeded in forming a valuable collection. The species of Ferns in these gardens are likewise very numerous, and there are many very fine specimens amongst them, which have grown to a great size. I could not but admire the very tasteful manner in which the Cape and New Holland plants were arranged out of doors in the summer months, and which were neatly plunged to the rims of the pots, to prevent them from being blown about by the wind. The Bignonia radicans formed a very prominent object against the end wall of one of the hothouses; the luxuriance and brilliancy of its flowers far surpassed any that I had previously seen. A fine specimen of the Laurus indica, which must have been fully twenty feet in height, was standing out of doors, and obliged to be cut down, as it was getting too high for the house in which it stood in the winter season. The Robinia Pseudacacia, inermis and tortuosa were both splendid trees, which ornamented the grass lawn. The Magnolia acuminata, also a beautiful specimen, as well as the Quercus palustris, and rubra; both had attained a great size, and were handsome trees, as well as several other species of this genus. Mr. Otto having kindly requested Mr. W. Brackenridge, who had been for some time from Scotland, residing in the neighbourhood of Berlin, and was then employed in the Botanic gardens, to accompany me the following day to such places as he considered most deserving of notice, I