Tokyo: 29 Walks in the World's Most Exciting City. John H. Martin
DEDICATION
For Jack, whose untimely passing deprived him of the pleasure of seeing his dedicated scholarship materialize in this wonderful edition. With thanks to the many individuals and institutions, both Japanese and American, who graciously introduced us to Japanese culture and history, beginning in 1968. Those introductions resulted in our enduring love and appreciation of Japan. Special thanks to the Japan National Tourist Association for their help in obtaining additional photos for this book. The authors would further like to acknowledge the Tuttle staff who helped to prepare this book, notably Cal Barksdale, Rob Goss, June Chong, Bambang Ari Setyabudi, Hendro Susetyo, Muh. Fivian Cahyanto, Raharjo, Fajar Wisnu Hardono, Chan Sow Yun and Yukie Ishihara.
Published by Tuttle Publishing, an imprint of Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd
Copyright © 2012 John H. Martin and Phyllis G. Martin
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publisher.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Martin, John H.
Tokyo: 29 walks in the world’s most exciting city/John H. Martin and Phyllis G. Martin.
— 1st ed.
p. cm.
Includes index.
ISBN: 978-1-4629-0888-2 (ebook)
1. Tokyo (Japan)—Tours. 2. Walking—Japan—Tokyo—Guidebooks. 3. Tokyo (Japan)—History. 4. Tokyo (Japan)—Social life and customs. 5. Tokyo (Japan)—Buildings, structures, etc. 6. Architecture—Japan—Tokyo. I. Martin, Phyllis G. II. Title.
DS896.38.M26 2012
952’.135—dc22
2011013616
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Tokyo
29 Walks in the World’s Most Exciting City
JOHN H. MARTIN AND PHYLLIS G. MARTIN
TUTTLE Publishing
Tokyo | Rutland, Vermont | Singapore
CONTENTS
Introduction: TOKYO AND ITS HERITAGE
CHAPTER 1: CENTRAL TOKYO
Walking Tour 1
MARUNOUCHI, THE IMPERIAL PALACE AND HIBIYA PARK: Within the Moat, the Blue-eyed Shogun, the Imperial Palace, the “Hall of the Cry of the Stag,” and the Imperial Hotel
Tokyo Station, Imperial Theater/Idemitsu Art Museum, The Imperial Palace Outer Garden, Hibiya Park, The Imperial Hotel
Walking Tour 2
OTEMACHI, IMPERIAL PALACE GARDENS, AND YASUKUNI SHRINE: a Flying Head, the Shogun’s Castle, a Cultural Oasis, and the Japanese Valhalla
The Hill of Masakado’s Head, Statue of Kiyomaro, The Imperial Palace East Garden, Kita-no-maru Park, Yasukuni Shrine, Chidorigafuchi Water Park, JCII Camera Museum (diversion)
Walking Tour 3
NAGATACHO AND AKASAKA: High Culture, the Law, Politics, an ancient Shrine, Commercial Palaces, and the Shadow of geisha Times
Hanzo-mon to Nagatacho, National Diet Building, Kasumigaseki and Toranomon, Ark Hills and the Okura Museum (diversion), Hie Shrine, Akasaka Mitsuke Area, New Otani Art Museum, Toyokawa Inari Shrine, Akasaka Detached Palace, Sogetsu Kaikan, The Meiji Outer Garden (diversion)
Walking Tour 4
TSUKIJI AND TSUKISHIMA: The Harvest of the Sea, the Shrine of the Fishermen Spies, the Foreigners’ Enclave, and dutch Learning
Tsukiji Market, Hama Detached Palace Garden, Tsukishima Island, Dutch Learning Area, Tsukiji Hongan-ji Temple
Walking Tour 5
NIHOMBASHI TO GINZA AND SHIMBASHI: The Quarter Where Pleasure Can Be Had, a Shopper’s Paradise, kabuki, and a New City “Where the Tide Ends”
Nihombashi: The Bridge of Japan, Chuo-dori: Tokyo’s High Street, Yaesu and Tokyo Station, Ginza Shopping District, A Walk Through the Ginza, Kabuki-za Theater, Shiodome New City, Yurakucho, Tokyo International Forum
Walking Tour 6
EAST OF NIHOMBASHI TO FUKAGAWA AND NINGYOCHO: The Bridge of Japan, a kite Museum, the Shrine of the golden Helmet, the Low City recalled, Sumo, and Doll Town
The Kite Museum, Kabuto Shrine and the Tokyo Stock Exchange, Fukagawa Fudo-do Temple, Tomioka Hachiman-Gu Shrine and Sumo, Fukagawa Edo Folk Museum, Kiyosumi Gardens, Sumo Stables and the Basho House Site, Doll Town Pleasure District, Suiten-gu Shrine, Mitsukoshi Department Store, Bank of Japan and Currency Museum
CHAPTER 2: EASTERN AND NORTHERN TOKYO
Walking Tour 7
ASAKUSABASHI, RYOGOKU AND YANAGIBASHI: a geisha Quarter, the World of Toys, an Earthquake Memorial, Sumo Wrestlers, and Lord kira’s demise
Doll Town and Toy Town, Earthquake Memorial Park, Kyu-Yasuda Teien Gardens, Edo-Tokyo Museum, Sumo Stadium, Museum, and Stables, Eko-in Temple, Site of Lord Kira’s Villa, Yanagibashi, Willow Tree Bridge