Sophie Conran’s Soups and Stews. Sophie Conran
cubes
30g/11/4oz plain flour seasoned with salt and pepper
4 tbsp olive oil
125g/4oz pancetta cut into little sticks
1/2 bottle of full-bodied red wine such as Merlot or Burgundy
300ml/10fl oz beef stock (see page 184)
1 bouquet garni
20 pearl (or ‘button’) onions peeled and trimmed
225g/8oz button mushrooms
25g/1oz butter
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 150°C/300°F/gas mark 2. Coat the beef cubes thoroughly with the seasoned flour. Heat half the oil in a large ovenproof pan with a lid on a high heat. Fry the pancetta in the oil until browned, then remove it from the pan. Add the meat and fry, adding a little more oil if necessary. Fry the meat in batches, putting in just as many pieces as will cover the bottom of the pan, until browned. Set the meat aside with the pancetta.
Reduce the heat to medium to low, pour in half the wine and bring to the boil, using a wooden spoon to scrape up the gubbins that have stuck to the bottom. Return the meat and pancetta to the pan. Pour in the rest of the wine and just enough of the stock to leave the top halves of the uppermost pieces of meat showing above the liquid. Add the bouquet garni, stir and season with pepper. Pop the lid on the pan and simmer in the oven for 2 hours. Meanwhile, simmer the onions in a small pan in the remaining stock for 5 minutes. Remove the onions and discard the stock. Fry the onions and mushrooms gently in the rest of the oil and the butter for 10 minutes, and then set aside until needed.
Once the meat has finished simmering, remove the bouquet garni and stir the onions and mushrooms through. Taste for seasoning. I like to serve with mashed potatoes (see page 187) and buttered Savoy cabbage.
This is a classic stew from Provence, made using either white or red wine. Daube is traditionally served with noodles and often made with the meat of bulls killed in bullfights, which still take place in the region. It’s named after ‘dobar’, the Spanish word for stew.
TO SERVE FOUR TO SIX
1kg/21/4lb chuck steak cut into 5cm/2 inch cubes
2 tbsp olive oil
150g/5oz pancetta cut into small cubes
1 red pepper cored, seeded and sliced
2 red onions peeled and chopped
100g/31/2oz black olives
150ml/5fl oz beef stock (see page 184)
400g tin of chopped plum tomatoes
2 anchovies chopped
2 strips of orange zest (use a potato peeler)
1 handful of rinsed capers (optional)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the marinade
150ml/5fl oz white wine
1 tbsp olive oil
3 cloves of garlic peeled, bashed and cut in half
1 tsp each finely chopped fresh thyme and rosemary
freshly ground black pepper
Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a bowl, add the beef and stir through. Leave to stand for a couple of hours or overnight, stirring occasionally. When ready to cook, preheat the oven to 150°C/300°F/gas mark 2. Heat half the oil in a large pan with a lid, pop the pancetta into the pan and cook, stirring, until it begins to brown. Stir in the red pepper, onions and olives and fry for 10 minutes.
Heat the remaining oil in another pan until smoking. Drain the beef from the marinade (reserving the marinade) and fry the beef in batches for 3 minutes on each side until brown. Add to the pan with the onion mixture, and deglaze the pan the beef was fried in with the stock. Pour the stock over the meat, stir in the tomatoes, reserved marinade, anchovies and orange zest, stir through and pop into the oven for 2 hours. Check after 1 hour and top up with water if it starts to dry out. Once it is cooked through, stir in the capers, if using, taste and adjust the seasoning. Add a little boiling water if it is a bit dry. Serve with plain boiled potatoes tossed in butter and parsley, a tomato salad and a big green salad. It is also lovely with couscous.
Jeremy Lee’s
Jeremy is a fantastic chef and his wit is sharper than any knife and keener than the strongest mustard. His smile and cooking can brighten any day. In this recipe, the featherblade, a piece of shoulder of beef, is cooked very slowly on the gentlest of heats until tender.
TO SERVE TEN TO TWELVE MOST HEARTILY
6 tbsp olive oil
1 piece of featherblade of beef about 2.5kg/51/2lb
150g/5oz unsalted butter
6 fresh sage leaves
1 generous sprig each of fresh thyme and rosemary
10 cloves of garlic unpeeled
250g/9oz lentils those from Puy are excellent
1 small onion peeled and finely chopped
1 small carrot peeled and finely chopped
1 rib of celery peeled and finely chopped
2 cloves garlic peeled and finely chopped
1 bay leaf
For the green sauce
tight fistful of picked fresh flat-leaf parsley
4 anchovy fillets coarsely chopped
1 tsp of capers coarsely chopped
2 cloves of garlic peeled and finely chopped
2 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp very good red wine vinegar
sea salt and plenty of freshly ground black pepper
Place a heavy-bottomed pot on a gentle heat and pour in 2 tablespoons of the oil. Liberally salt and pepper the featherblade, ensuring a thoroughly even seasoning rubbed all over. Place the meat in the heated oil and let it sit until darkened and well coloured, without singeing. Move and repeat until the whole piece is marvellously crusted all over.
Remove the joint, discard any oil and wipe the pan, leaving only the gunk adhering to the bottom and sides of the pan. Add in the butter and 2 tablespoons of fresh oil. Throw in the herbs and then return the beef, rolling altogether. Add a cup or so of water and stand back, then reduce the heat to a little murmur and place a lid upon the pot. Let the joint cook quietly for 4-6 hours until the piece is soft and tender. Roll the joint occasionally to prevent sticking and add a little water every now and then to keep the whole thing merry.
While the beef continues on its way, attention now turns towards the lentils. Tip the lentils into a sieve and rinse very well under cold, running water. Put the lentils into a pot, cover with cold water and set this upon a high heat and bring to