Dress as Metaphor British Female Fashion and Social Change in the 20th Century. Katarzyna Kociolek

Dress as Metaphor British Female Fashion and Social Change in the 20th Century

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Katarzyna Agnieszka Kociołek

Dress as Metaphor – British

Female Fashion and Social

Change in the 20^th Century

Bibliographic Information published by the Deutsche

Nationalbibliothek

The Deutsche Nationalbibliothek lists this publication in the Deutsche

Nationalbibliografie; detailed bibliographic data is available in the

internet at http://dnb.d-nb.de.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

A CIP catalog record for this book has been applied for at the

Library of Congress.

ISSN 2364-2882

ISBN 978-3-631-66004-1 (Print)

E-ISBN 978-3-653-05187-2 (E-Book)

E-ISBN 978-3-631-70955-9 (EPUB)

E-ISBN 978-3-631-70956-6 (MOBI)

DOI 10.3726/978-3-653-05187-2

Internationaler Verlag der Wissenschaften

Berlin 2020

Peter Lang – Berlin ∙ Bern ∙ Bruxelles ∙ New York ∙ Oxford ∙ Warszawa ∙ Wien

All parts of this publication are protected by copyright. Any

utilisation outside the strict limits of the copyright law, without

the permission of the publisher, is forbidden and liable to

prosecution. This applies in particular to reproductions,

translations, microfilming, and storage and processing in

electronic retrieval systems.

This publication has been peer reviewed.

www.peterlang.com

About the author

The Author

Katarzyna Agnieszka Kociołek is an assistant professor at the Institute of English Studies, University of Warsaw, Poland. Her doctoral dissertation (2009) examined the representations of ethnic identities in the British visual arts discourse of the 1980s and 1990s. Her research interests include the representation of identities and the visual culture, which incorporates fashion, film and visual arts.

About the book

Katarzyna Agnieszka Kociołek

Dress as Metaphor – British Female Fashionand Social Change in the 20th Century

This book traces the interconnectedness of women’s sartorial practices and social change in 20th-century Britain. Based on a wide range of cultural texts, which include literary works, magazines, posters, advertisements and political cartoons, this study endeavours to prove that due to the metaphorical function of clothing, womenswear imparted significant information about women’s positions in society during transformative historical moments.

This eBook can be cited

This edition of the eBook can be cited. To enable this we have marked the start and end of a page. In cases where a word straddles a page break, the marker is placed inside the word at exactly the same position as in the physical book. This means that occasionally a word might be bifurcated by this marker.

Women’s fashion is always a statement about women’s roles and how they are or should be performed (Crane 1999, 61)

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

I am extremely grateful to my colleagues at the Institute of English Studies (University of Warsaw) who have read drafts of the chapters. In particular I would like to thank Professor Barry Keane for his advice, encouragement and revisions. Also, I would like to thank faculty members of the Research Institute for Literature and Cultural History at Liverpool John Moores University who offered comments on early versions of some fragments of the book.

Because small sections of chapters two, three and five have already been published as articles, I would like to thank anonymous reviewers for all the suggestions that helped to improve the chapters’ final shape.

A special note of thanks for the intellectual stimulation and inspiration should be extended to undergraduate and graduate students of the Institute of English Studies who have attended my course on Fashion and Social Change in Britain in the 20th century as well as my MA and BA seminars on visual culture.

Finally I would like to thank my family – my parents, my husband and my sons – without whose support and patience I could not have finished this book.

INTRODUCTION

1 THEORIES OF FASHION

1.1 Fashion as Communication

1.2 Identity Formation Through Fashion: Gender, Class, Subculture, Age

2 THE METAPHORS WE LIVE IN – DRESS AS A METAPHOR

2.1 Conceptual Metaphor Theory and Fashion

2.2 Seeing Through Clothes – Fashion as Metaphor in Visual Culture

3 SARTORIAL PRACTICES AND METAPHORS IN THE REPRESENTATIONS OF THE BRITISH SUFFRAGETTES AND THE FLAPPERS

3.1 Fashionable Suffragettes

3.2 The Flappers and Their (Mis)representation in the British Media

4 THE UNIFORMED FEMINITY OF THE WARTIME FASHIONS

4.1 Civilians in Uniforms – Sartorial Representations of Female Identity During the WWI