The Isle of Skye. Terry Marsh

      It begins with a direct assault on Beinn Bhuidhe, from there tracking below Sgurr na Coinnich to the Bealach nam Mulachag. From the bealach, ascend Beinn na Caillich, and return to climb Sgurr na Coinnich, before descending south-westwards to Bealach Udal on the Broadford–Kylerhea road. Now, cross the road and tackle the heathery slopes of Beinn Bheag, before pressing on to Ben Aslak.

      Once the summit of Ben Aslak is gained, head for its eastern top, and from there descend the long and easilyinclined north-east ridge until you intersect the coastal path linking Kylerhea with Kinloch Lodge Hotel above Loch na Dal. Head north along this path to reach a bridge over Kylerhea River. Go ahead alongside a fence to reach an unsurfaced road near a house, and there turn right to follow the road out to the main glen road, not far from your starting point.

WALK 1.8

      Leitir Fura

      This very agreeable walk visits Kinloch Forest and the site of Leitir Fura (Letterfura), a scattering of lonely homesteads finally vacated in 1782, of which very little remains apart from a few collapsed and overgrown crofts. The place was not one affected by the Highland Clearances, but was abandoned progressively because of the hardships of subsistence living.

      During the 18th century, the natural woodland at Leitir Fura was by far the largest on the island, although barely more than 5km (3 miles) in length. Today, Leitir Fura is the most westerly ashwood in the UK, and has some nationally important bryophytes and lichens. In recent times, many non-native species have been removed and the ground opened up to allow natural regeneration to occur.

      Throughout the walk, the Sound of Sleat is a constant companion, set against the mainland hills that backdrop Glenelg and the Sandaig Islands, the latter made famous as ‘Camusfearna’ by Gavin Maxwell in A Ring of Bright Water.

      The Kinloch Forest car park is at the end of a rough forest road that leaves the A851 about 200m south of the Drum Fearn turning. From it walk up a signed path to join the main forest trail, turn right and follow this as it passes high above Kinloch Lodge Hotel.

      After about 1km (½ mile), leave the main track for an ascending path on the left, an old Drovers' Path that ran all the way to Kylerhea, from where cattle would swim across the sound to the mainland to begin their onward journey to Lowland cattle markets.

      The path rises steadily through mainly silver birch, with excellent views seaward of Isle Ornsay and across to the mainland. A perfectly sited bench, just as the gradient levels and you leave the trees behind, is a perfect place to rest and appreciate the view.

      Approaching Leitir Fura

      Ignore the first signed turning to Leitir Fura, and continue until the path clearly divides, with the Drovers’ Path (less distinct) bearing ahead, and a good path descending, right, to the ruins of Leitir Fura. The name is thought to have originated from a large oak tree that stood in the village, the Fura Mor.

      This is a beautiful setting, but beauty alone doesn’t put food on the table. Historical records show that people lived here until the latter part of the 18th century, but just a few decades later, all had gone, many to new lives in Nova Scotia, Canada.

      Having explored this lonely outpost, descend on a clear path that zigzags down to a lower forest trail. Turn right onto this, and now simply follow it back to the start.

      Leitir Fura

WALK 1.9

      Kyle Rhea Trail

Start/Finish	Car park (NG787212)
Distance	4.5km (3 miles) (maximum)
Total ascent	Negligible
Map	OS Explorer 412

      The start of the walk is found not far from the Kylerhea ferry slip at the far end of Kylerhea Glen, and is reached by a narrow and circuitous route through a fascinating landscape from the main Kyleakin–Broadford road, near the airstrip. For this very easy walk ensure your essential equipment includes a pair of binoculars as the walk visits a viewing hide overlooking a stretch of the kyle much favoured by otters, seals and seabirds. Don’t expect a ready display of these beautiful creatures, but patience mingled with fortune will provide a memory of Skye that is second to none.

      Leave the car park, following the broad trail, and soon pass through a gate giving access to the nature reserve. There are throughout the walk good views across the kyle to the wooded slopes of Druim na Leitire, and of the habitat customarily frequented by otters, in particular. As you approach the viewing hide, do keep noise to a minimum, otherwise any chance of seeing otters and the many other species of wildlife that frequent this coast will vanish. The hide is usually manned by staff of Forest Enterprise, and they will give advice about what to look for, as will the displays within the hide.

      As you leave the hide, turn right down a wooded trail for a short detour, past a miniature waterfall and pool, to climb steps back onto the main trail. Turn right, and follow the trail, either as far as you like or until it ends, close by the power lines overhead. Any thoughts of pressing on through the forest should be banished. The path does continue a short way, but becomes impenetrable before long. Simply go back to the car park along the main trail, scanning the slopes of Beinn Bhuidhe for a glimpse of deer or a golden eagle.

      The Glenelg Ferry at Kylerhea

      OTTERS

      Otters are members of the Mustelidae family, which includes weasel, stoat and mink, and an average-sized otter will measure about 1.2m (4 feet). They will eat

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