Annapurna. Siân Pritchard-Jones

      Siân Pritchard-Jones and Bob Gibbons met in 1983, on a trek from Kashmir to Ladakh. By then Bob had already driven an ancient Land Rover from England to Kathmandu (in 1974), and overland trucks across Asia, Africa and South America. He had also lived in Kathmandu for two years, employed as a trekking company manager. Before they met, Siân worked in computer programming and systems analysis, but was drawn back to the Himalayas after her first trek, the Annapurna Circuit, en route from working in New Zealand.

      Since then they have been leading and organising treks in the Alps, Nepal and the Sahara, as well as driving a bus overland to Nepal. Journeys by a less ancient (only 35-year-old) Land Rover from England to South Africa provided the basis for several editions of the Bradt guide Africa Overland.

      In Kathmandu they have worked with Pilgrims Publishing on books covering the Kathmandu Valley, Ladakh and a historical look at the Kailash-Guge kingdom. More recently they have worked with Himalayan Map House, producing cultural trekking guides covering much of Nepal.

      In 2007 they wrote the Cicerone guide to Mount Kailash and Western Tibet, as well updating the Grand Canyon guide. During 2011 they revisited Tibet, this time driving the same old Land Rover back from Kathmandu to the UK overland via Lhasa, through China, Kazakhstan, Russia and Western Europe.

      It was with great relish that they returned to one of their former trekking haunts in Nepal – the Annapurna region – to prepare this guidebook.

      Other Cicerone guides by the author

      The Mount Kailash Trek

      © Siân Pritchard-Jones and Bob Gibbons 2017

      Second edition 2017

      ISBN-13: 978 1 85284 826 2

      First edition 2013

      Printed by KHL Printing, Singapore

      A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

      All photographs are by the authors unless otherwise stated.

      Dedicated to the preservation of the Spirit of Adventure

      Horizon

      All around, the illusory edge of the sky, Masterpiece of a magical hand, A faraway line that doesn’t exist, Yet stretches away to the end…

      Translated by Siân and her father John Pritchard-Jones from the traditional Welsh Englyn poem ‘Y Gorwel’ by Dewi Emrys (David Emrys James)

      Updates to this Guide

      While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. If we know of any, there will be an Updates tab on this book’s page on the Cicerone website (www.cicerone.co.uk/826/updates), so please check before planning your trip. We also advise that you check information about such things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to [email protected] or by post to Cicerone, 2 Police Square, Milnthorpe LA7 7PY, United Kingdom.

      Warning

      Mountain walking can be a dangerous activity carrying a risk of personal injury or death. It should be undertaken only by those with a full understanding of the risks and with the training and/or experience to evaluate them. While every care and effort has been taken in the preparation of this guide, the user should be aware that conditions can be highly variable and can change quickly, materially affecting the seriousness of a mountain walk.

      Therefore, except for any liability which cannot be excluded by law, neither Cicerone nor the authors accept liability for damage of any nature (including damage to property, personal injury or death) arising directly or indirectly from the information in this book.

      Readers are warned that, although there are now local mobile phone networks throughout most of the trekking routes, foreign mobile phones may not work. Local lodges will always be able to help and call a helicopter if necessary.

      In case of emergency self-help may be the only option. Any helicopter rescue would be expensive and payment guarantee required. Be insured. Read, understand and take account of altitude sickness (AMS). See ‘Health Matters’ in the Introduction.

      Acknowledgements

      We are grateful to Jonathan Williams of Cicerone for allowing us to bring the delights of the Annapurna region to the attention of avid trekkers. Particular thanks must also go to Kev Reynolds, who has inspired us with his books. Thanks also to the team at Cicerone who made it possible.

      In Kathmandu we are grateful to Rajendra Lama, Ravi Chandra, Pasang Dawa and Niraj Shrestha; to the team at the Kathmandu Guest House; and for the second edition, to Uttam Phuyal and his team at the Hotel Moonlight, Ian Wall, David Durkan, Jyoti Upadhyay and Pawan Shakya. Thanks to Jane Morgan for her updates on the trails around Chowk Chisopani and beyond and to Bart Jordans, the author of Cicerone’s guide to Bhutan, for his updates on Nar Phu.

      Thanks to Pilgrims Book House, where the cultural and historical text was researched, to Mingma Sherpa of The Everest Equipment Shop, to Bhandari’s Photo Shop opposite and to KC’s restaurant for the superb pumpkin pies. Thanks to Dr Ram Baran Yadav and Dr Kailash Sah for the medical hints. Also to Christine Miqueu-Baz.

      Special thanks to Rajendra Suwal for his contribution about the birds of the Annapurna region. Thanks to Alonzo Lucius Lyons, as well as Bishnu Adhikari and Kate Hargadon at CHOICE Humanitarian for notes on the homestay treks, and to Pawan Shakya at Himalayan MapHouse. In Pokhara, thanks to K B Nembang for his experience-backed knowledge. In Manang, special thanks to Kanchha Ghale, the best pony man in the Annapurnas, and his wonderful pony Kale. In Nar-Phu, thanks to our guide Padam Rai and porter hero Hiro! In Mustang, thanks to our excellent team of guide Ven Bahadur Dong and porter/cook Bhen Bahadur Tamang.

      Thanks to our parents for putting up with our unusual lifestyle; and many dhanyabads to the lodge hosts, trekking staff and porters who struggle daily through such grand scenery, looking only at the trail underfoot.

      And finally, thanks for helping us to keep up to date by sending your suggestions and updates to us through our website www.expeditionworld.com or direct to Cicerone.

      How can we be out of soap? Judging by appearances, we have not been contaminated by soap for weeks.

      Stones of Silence, George Schaller

      Front cover: Dhaulagiri from above Lubra (Stage 3 of the Annapurna Circuit – Trek 1)

      CONTENTS

       Overview map

       Map key

       Preface

       Introduction

       Geography