Kilimanjaro. Alex Stewart
elsewhere in Tanzania and you should consult a GP or medical professional to gauge the risk posed to you. Your medical history, age and destination will all influence the advice given to you. Some anti-malarial medication is reported to have unpleasant side effects. Regardless, when on the mountain, especially in the forest and on the lower slopes, take precautions to avoid being bitten by mosquitoes. Cover exposed skin and use a repellent spray in the evenings to decrease the chances of being bitten.
Porters descending towards the Saddle to approach Kibo (Rongai Route, Mawenzi Tarn Hut to Kibo Huts)
There are a number of steps that you can take before you even leave your home country to improve your chances of remaining healthy. For fully up-to-date health advice and for information as to which inoculations are necessary, contact the Department of Health Helpline (tel 0800 555 777). Alternatively contact the Medical Advisory Service for Travellers Abroad (MASTA) (tel 01276 685 040, www.masta-travel-health.com) or the World Health Organisation (WHO) (www.who.int). If you would prefer to talk to someone face to face, approach your GP or try visiting the Nomad Travellers store and medical centre in STA Travel in London or the British Airways Travel Clinic, also in London (see Appendix B for contact details).
Remember to plan ahead when getting vaccinations. Some vaccinations need more than one injection and others can not be administered together. Currently, Tanzania makes no requirements for visitors to show proof of immunisation, although in the past travellers have had to show a certificate of vaccination against yellow fever (this practice has officially been stopped – although you may still wish to have the vaccination).
On-trek health and safety
The majority of individuals who set off to climb Kilimanjaro complete their trip without any undue mishap. With the application of a bit of common sense and care, the mountain shouldn’t pose an undue threat and the worst that will happen to you is that you have to deal with a blister. However, Kilimanjaro must not be underestimated and its very real dangers should be taken seriously. In 1884 Harry Johnston prematurely wrote that on Kilimanjaro ‘… the most serious obstacles arise from mist and cold which would scarcely deter a cockney from ascending Snowdon’. He later noted on his climb to around 4850m that at one point he felt ‘as if I would never more regain the force to move, and must remain and die amid this horrid solitude of stones and snow’.
Although the path is generally well trodden and you are accompanied by a guide, the route to the summit passes through some wild and forbidding terrain. An accident here can have serious consequences. The national park authorities are understandably cagey about the exact death toll on Kilimanjaro, but it is likely that 10–15 people die on the mountain every year.
Crossing the Saddle from Horombo Huts to Kibo Huts on the Marangu Route (photo: Vadim Petrakov/Shutterstock.com)
At the start of each day, talk through your itinerary with your guide. Pay particular attention to the amount of height to be gained and how quickly. Don’t over-estimate your own physical ability or that of your group; it is far better to be realistic than optimistic in these circumstances. Make an allowance for delays, bad weather and innumerable photo stops to ensure that you have sufficient time to enjoy the day.
When trekking it is essential to remain hydrated. This is even more true at altitude, where the regular consumption of water helps to combat the effects of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness). Drink water regularly and continually throughout the day. Although mountain water and runoff is generally okay to drink, it is well worth treating all drinking water before you consume it. Boil the water for three minutes, treat it with iodine or filter it using a portable filter to ensure that it is free from contamination by bacteria. Bottled water should come with an unbroken seal (equally true for water drunk in the towns). A host of organisms are active in the waterways of Tanzania that could lay you low with a variety of ailments. The same precautions should be borne in mind with regards to ice or water used for cleaning your teeth.
A good standard of personal hygiene throughout the trek will also minimise the risk of you becoming ill or suffering from gastro-intestinal problems. Try to clean your hands and fingers before you eat. Carry a pack of baby wipes for this purpose.
Various pieces of rescue equipment at Kibo Huts
Carry a few emergency, high energy foodstuffs and a first aid kit with you on the trek. Keep an eye on the weather and be aware of the sudden build up of cloud or a rapid drop in temperature that may herald the onset of bad weather.
While following the routes up the mountain, stick to the approved paths. Try not to leave the clearly marked track and resist the urge to take a shortcut. At higher elevations don’t try to venture onto the glaciers unless you are properly equipped and experienced enough to do so safely. Make sure that you keep an eye on all of the members of your group and watch out for anyone flagging or showing signs of distress.
In the unlikely event that you become separated from your group or have an accident, stay calm and try to draw attention to yourself. The international distress signal is six blasts on a whistle or flashes of a torch after dark, spaced evenly for one minute. Wait for a minute and then repeat the sequence. Continue to do so until you are spotted. The appropriate response to the signal from someone who recognises what it means is three whistles or flashes evenly spaced throughout a minute, followed by a minute’s pause and a second set of three.
While climbing Kilimanjaro you will be subjected to extremes of temperature. Consequently, you must be conscious of the dangers of sunburn and hypothermia. Sunburn occurs quickly, particularly in the rarefied air and deceptive coolness of the mountain. Make sure that you wear the appropriate clothing and use sufficiently strong sun cream to protect yourself. Sunglasses can also protect your eyes from damage when walking on or near snow or ice. If you do get burnt, aloe vera or calamine lotion will soothe the burn. Continued exposure to high temperatures coupled with a low water intake can sometimes result in heatstroke. At the other end of the temperature gauge, hypothermia occurs when the body loses heat faster than it can produce it and the person’s core temperature drops. A combination of wind, wet clothing, fatigue and hunger usually bring on the condition. To combat mild hypothermia, retreat out of the wind, put on dry, warm clothing and drink warm fluids. Do not rub the casualty, allow them to warm up slowly instead.
Camp on the Shira Plateau (Machame Route) (photo: Potifor/Shutterstock.com)
Mountain Sickness (AMS)
‘Haraka haraka haina baraka’
‘Hurry hurry has no blessings’
Swahili proverb
One of the main fears that people have when climbing Kilimanjaro is that they will succumb to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). This is a very serious condition that can affect anyone. However, it is alright to get AMS in its mild form, and by being aware of the symptoms and by adhering to the rules of acclimatisation you can significantly reduce the likelihood of suffering adversely. Other forms of varying severity of this condition, which are described later, include High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) and High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE).
As you gain altitude, the air gets thinner, the pressure drops and less oxygen is available in the atmosphere. The drop in oxygen is noticeable above 2500m. ‘High altitude’ extends to 3700m and ‘very high altitude’ extends to 5500m, at which point there is only half the oxygen in each breath. ‘Extreme altitude’ is defined as being above 5500m. Consequently, as you gain altitude your heart and lungs have to work harder to oxygenate the body. Unfortunately, as you climb, this coincides with an increased requirement for oxygen in the tissues, resulting in a deficit. If you ascend slowly and carefully, your body