Singapore: World City. Kim Inglis

      The Chinese, Indians and Malays comprise the majority of Singapore’s multi-ethnic population.

      Sitting in a physiotherapist’s waiting room a few years ago, I was intrigued by a conversation between a client and the receptionist. The latter, sporting a nametag, was being quizzed by the client as to which part of Sri Lanka she came from. "I am not Sri Lankan," came the reply, "I am Singaporean." Undaunted, the client continued, "But your name ... it is a Sri Lankan name." "Regardless, I am Singaporean," came the reply.

      This line of questioning went back and forth a few more times, with the client adamant she was of Sri Lankan origin and the receptionist sticking to her story: whatever her name, she was a Singaporean—and proud of it. At no point did she concede that her parents or grandparents or great-grandparents had emigrated from Sri Lanka, nor that she had South Asian roots. As far as she was concerned, she was from Singapore.

      It’s a telling encounter, because it encapsulates much about the average Singaporean: he or she is an immigrant or comes from immigrant stock; her ethnicity may be different to her neighbour’s; he could be a Christian, she an agnostic; his skin colour, his background, his family ... all may be the opposite of his wife’s. Yet, where they are all united is in their nationality.

      Certainly, in the early days of colonization, an abundance of merchants and migrants were attracted to the new outpost as business and commerce flourished. Most came from the southern provinces of China, Indonesia, the Indian subcontinent and the Middle East—all looking for the prospect of a better life. Many would have intended returning to their native countries, but life, wealth, new roots and inter-marriage resulted in a large proportion of them remaining. Today’s population, descended from this early mix, is a melting pot of complementary ethnic groups, roughly consisting of 77 percent Chinese, 14 percent Malay, 8 percent Indians and 1 percent Eurasians, plus a sprinkling of people of other descent.

      As such, Singapore makes for an exciting multi-racial, multi-religious, multi-ethnic mix. At school, every child is required to repeat the National Pledge daily: "We, the citizens of Singapore, pledge ourselves as one united people, regardless of race, language or religion, to build a democratic society based on justice and equality so as to achieve happiness, prosperity and progress for our nation." Written shortly after the nation’s independence by one of the pioneer leaders of independent Singapore, Sinnathamby Rajaratnam, who saw language, race and religion as divisive factors, it emphasized that these differences can be overcome if Singaporeans care enough about their country.

      There’s no doubt that this attitude has been embraced by the populace at large: Singapore is a rare example of a multi-cultural society with remarkable tolerance for racial and religious differences. As one leader noted: "One is first and foremost a Singaporean, then a Chinese, Malay, Indian, or other."

      THE ARTS SCENE

      A GREAT LEAP FORWARD IN MUSIC, THEATRE, DANCE AND THE VISUAL ARTS

      The futuristic outline of the Moshe Safdie designed ArtScience Museum on Marina Bay. Durian dome at the Esplanade complex. The white facade of the neo-Classical National Museum with Corinthian columns.

      Recent investment in the Arts in the form of new galleries, venues and arts-related events has seen a huge leap forward in Singapore’s arts scene. On any given day or night, there is always something new to watch, listen to, or visit. Be it a concert in the stunning double-domed Esplanade or colonial Victoria Concert Hall, a historical talk at the National Archives, a rock concert in one of the city parks, or a specialist arts fair, the events calendar is action-packed. Both local and foreign attractions proliferate throughout the year.

      The National Arts Council, charged with overseeing art appreciation in Singapore, organizes free concerts in lush park surrounds year round, while other annual fixtures include the Singapore Arts Fair (four weeks in May and June), running the gamut from theatre through dance and film to concerts, and the Fringe Festival in January that concentrates on theatre, dance and the visual arts. Two annual art fairs—Art Stage and the Affordable Art Fair—attract crowds, while other annual events include the world music festival WOMAD, Ballet under the Stars, the International Comedy Festival and more.

      On any given night, you can easily choose from a wide variety of genres—Chinese opera, Indian dance, Western stand-up comedy, a world-class Shakespeare production, for example. Theatre is particularly strong, with a plethora of local companies staging productions, often by local playwrights with surprising social commentary, complemented by large Western touring musicals and shows. Of particular note is the W!LD RICE company that creates what it calls "glocal" works inspired by both Singaporean society and universal issues and the Singapore Repertory Theatre, more associated with Broadway-style productions. Dance is represented by over 30 dance companies and societies, with the Singapore Dance Theatre staging about 28 performances each year, and a number of smaller companies specializing in ethnic dance—South East Asian, Indian and the like. Classical music is represented by the superb Singapore Symphony Orchestra; set up in 1979, it plays about 100 concerts at the Esplanade annually.

      Art and architecture is indelibly linked, as evidenced by the intriguing mix of public sculptures found along the river, the world-class Esplanade complex with its durian domes, and the many colonial buildings that have found new life as venues for the arts. The Arts House at the Old Parliament is a particular case in point, as is the Singapore Art Museum (SAM) housed in a graceful 19th-century former school building. Similarly, many museums—in former classical civic buildings, Chinese shophouses or old fortifications—showcase not only exhibits relating to Singapore and South East Asia, but the actual architecture and interiors themselves.

      The rotunda dome at the National Museum is fitted with stained glass panels that were fully restored in 2005.

      "The Dancing Sky", a stunning show of aerial acrobatics, dance, light and music by Italian company Studio Festi, at the National Museum’s Night Festival, an event held on the 18th July 2008. The facade of the neo-Classical National Museum is seen in the background.

      The Asian Civilisations Museum, located at historic Empress Place, was opened on 1st March 2003. The museum presents the history and culture of Singapore’s ancestral cultures.

      A dance performance on the lawn of the Asian Civilisations Museum opens the Singapore River Festival, a week-long programme of performances and parades in the quays along the Singapore river.

      The ArtScience Museum, built in the shape of a lotus, features changing exhibitions that often rely on technology as a medium for their message.

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