Walking in the Ardennes. Jeff Williams
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Typical path sign (but shapes and colours vary)
The systems used for marking the very laudable number of maintained paths in the Ardennes are bewilderingly variable. The most frequent methods, though there may be many more, are as follows:
Path numbers printed on a white plastic background and nailed to a tree or any alternative inanimate object
Path numbers painted in white or black on a tree
No path number but a symbol such as a red rectangle or green diamond and so on
Wooden signposts featuring the name of the next feature on the walk
On occasion the sheer volume of numbers and symbols in one site can be overwhelming.
Fortunately, the traditional red and white GR (Grande Randonnée) signs are maintained in the Ardennes, although paradoxically GR routes are often omitted from local maps. A useful and fairly reliable rule is that if there is no GR sign at a junction of paths then one will appear within about 20m. It may be the conventional red/white or the same covered with the ‘not this way’ cross.
GR signs: (top) turn left; (bottom) ‘not this way’
Communications
There are few public telephones in the Ardennes compared with UK and most of them only take credit cards. Although there is good mobile phone network coverage, 3G is much less widespread. Some hotels provide wi-fi facilities but private accommodation rarely does so. Internet cafés are uncommon and most tourist offices have no such provision. Those who need to keep in touch with the office, the stockbroker or even the children need to make alternative provision.
The international dialling code for Belgium is 0032.
The telephone number for emergency services is 112.
The RAVeL network
In Belgium about 1200km of old railway track and towpath has been upgraded to create a track for non-motorised wayfarers ranging from cyclists (by far the biggest users) to equestrians. This is known as the RAVeL network (Réseau Autonome de Voies Lentes). Walkers also use the facility but the flatness of the terrain and the number of bikes discourages large numbers. There are fun features such as tunnels and viaducts, but given the origins of the network, walking routes would be a there-and-back affair, which generally is unattractive. However, there are two routes in this book that incorporate a short section of RAVeL (Walk 8 and Walk 9).
Using this guide
The first taste of caillebotis, the wooden walkway (Walk 17)
The walks are grouped around five centres in Belgium and one in Luxembourg. It is perfectly feasible to do a walk listed under one centre from another area, such are the small distances involved in the Ardennes, although this would inevitably increase motoring costs.
The information box at the beginning of each walk includes details of the length of the outing, an estimate of the basic time it takes, the expected height gain, which map to take and notes on getting to the start, where best to park a car and what facilities to expect en route.
An estimate of the time required for a walk is the trickiest aspect of the description. Different people move at different speeds and indeed these speeds will vary from day to day depending on the weight of backpack, weather conditions, time spent studying surroundings or taking photographs, and many other variables. In this book the stated time is simply how long it took the author to walk the route including all stops for writing notes, taking photographs, slaking thirst and for ‘comfort breaks’. But it excludes, for example, picnics, sleeping under hedgerows after liquid lunches, prolonged photographic composition experimentation and birdwatching. These timings will be on the fast side for some walkers and a little slow for others. Comparing your own time for one walk, and extrapolating that for the next, may improve predictive accuracy.
The length and ascent of each walk were measured on a global positioning system (GPS) device and rounded to the nearest half-kilometre. GPS instruments have inevitable inaccuracies but give a much better estimate than measuring on a map.
No system of grading is used in this book because the walks are essentially straightforward, differing only in distance and ascent. Where there are special situations, such as a river crossing or ladders, these are clearly described.
Routes are accompanied by clear, contoured colour maps, and the features shown on these maps are highlighted in bold in the route description to help you read the two together. The route summary table in Appendix A will help you choose a route to suit your location, time slot and ambitions.
1 BOUILLON AND THE RIVER SEMOIS
Frahan villag, sitting in a loop of the Semois (Walk 2)
INTRODUCTION
Bouillon, the administrative centre of the commune of the same name, is a truly historic small town (population 2200) with a magnificent castle as its pièce de resistance. Inevitably it is touristy, often packed on holiday weekends and for most of July and August, but nonetheless it preserves an undeniably vibrant and attractive atmosphere. Hidden it certainly is, partly because you can drive past the town on the N89 without even seeing it and partly because outside Belgium, Holland and the neighbouring part of France most other countries know nothing of it or its river – the beautiful and normally placid Semois. This river, whose source is near Arlon on the Grand Duchy border, runs generally west to cross into France near Bohan (see Walk 5), and 10km later flows into the Meuse. Its exaggerated and often symmetrical horseshoe loops take the meaning of meandering to new heights.
The town has all the expected facilities and a useful internet/wi-fi facility, for those in need, at Papeterie des Ardennes on Quai du Rempart, just down from the Pont de France. There is no camping within the town but lots close by.
Local bus services are poor. There is a good, frequent connection with the nearest railway station at Libramont (connections from Brussels and Liège), but the only other helpful route for walkers is the infrequent service to Sedan.
The idea of a single walk to take in all the good views of the town and castle is an attractive one but would be an unhappy compromise, so Walk 10 and Walk 11 visit recommended sites from which Bouillon can be seen at its best.
BOUILLON CASTLE
As the very prominent focus of the town, a visit to the castle is near mandatory. Certainly it dates back to AD988, probably earlier, and in 1096 was sold by its then owner, Godefroid de Bouillon, to finance his leadership of a crusade to Jerusalem. The fortifications were vastly improved by the famous military engineer Vauban in the late 17th century. It’s a superb, evocative and informative castle to visit, and great value. You can climb to the highest keep and descend to the lowest dungeon, see the oubliette and walk in seriously dank underground passages as well as through fortifications within the walls. Buy the cheap English-language mini-guidebook that is essential for the DIY tour. The road tunnel under the castle was originally built for the railway described in Walk 1.
WALK 1
Bouillon to Sedan
| Start | Pont de France in Bouillon (22km by road northeast of Sedan) |
| Finish | Sedan railway station |
| Distance | 24km |
| Ascent | 400m |
| Time | 8hrs |
| Maps | Carte des promenades du Grand Bouillon (1:25,000); French IGN Carte de Randonnée 3009E – Sedan |
| Refreshments | Restaurants, cafés, bakery and supermarket in Corbion; all facilities in Bouillon |
| Access | Ideally |