Utah's National Parks. Ron Adkison
much of the sandstone in the area, as well as the valley through which we are presently hiking.
Our sandy trail meanders along the eastern margin of the valley, threading its way among Gambel oaks, sagebrush, prickly pear, and a host of seasonal wildflowers. Prominent landmarks include 7410’ Red Butte to the northwest and 7265’ Firepit Knoll, its brushy slopes rising above the trail to the east. To the north, a wall of sheer salmon-tinted cliffs rises above as-yet-invisible La Verkin Creek valley.
As we pass beneath the basalt-crowned rim north of Firepit Knoll, conspicuous Burnt Mountain soon meets our gaze on the distant northwest skyline. Typical of the mesas in Zion, its wooded crown contrasts with abruptly plunging cliffs. Upon reaching a hikers’ gate (1.6; 6342) we pass through a fenceline, entering a 400-acre private inholding, through which we will be hiking for the next 2.5 miles. Expect the possibility of encountering cattle beyond the gate, and as you pass through private land, respect landowner rights.
Our route presently follows a rough road that soon curves north past a field cleared of sagebrush. We quickly pass more such clearings before descending amid ponderosa pines and Gambel oaks to the crossing of a small, dry wash, beyond which we climb to a minor ridge with a fork in the sandy road (0.5; 6300).
Bearing right, we begin a steady, moderately steep descent beneath broken, hoodoo-capped cliffs. As we proceed down the oak- and juniper-dotted ridge, we soon glimpse the grassy, narrow spread of Hop Valley. The broken cliffs rising above it frame a memorable view of the tall cliffs rising above La Verkin Creek to the north.
A knee-jarring descent on a series of steep, rocky switchbacks finally gets us to level ground, where we cross a dry, sandy wash (1.0; 5850), then proceed northwest along its east bank. A sluggish stream soon emerges from the sands of the wash, and we continue along the grassy banks to the head of Hop Valley, where an interesting side canyon joins from the east, also boasting a small stream.
The grassy spread of Hop Valley that lies before us is truly one of the gems of Zion. Its exceedingly flat floor, narrowly wedged between 600’ cliffs, seems an enigma; there is nothing else in the Park quite like it. Hikers familiar with the backcountry of the Needles District in Canyonlands National Park will recognize its similarity to The Grabens there. But unlike a down-faulted graben valley, Hop Valley was formed initially as a result of erosion; later, its floor was buried in lakebed sediments.
Part of the ridge northeast of Burnt Mountain, the prominent mesa rising 2000 feet above the lower end of the valley, experienced a major landslide approximately 1500 years ago, which dammed the canyon and formed a lake nearly 0.5 mile long. Geologists have found evidence to suggest that the dam was breached only about 200 years ago. Much of the lakebed sediment remains, giving the valley its flat profile.
To proceed through the valley, we follow either the streambanks or cattle trails, eventually passing a branch canyon (1.0; 5740) emerging from the cliffs to the northeast. Shortly thereafter, another canyon enters the valley from the southwest. Next we encounter the heavily wooded, gaping mouth of Langston Canyon (0.5; 5720), joining the valley on our right (northeast). That canyon is worthy of exploration if time allows, but cliffs and steep dropoffs block progress after a short distance up it.
Climbing to a hikers’ gate at the northernmost fenceline (0.6; 5700), we then stroll along the boxelder-shaded bench before descending back to the valley bottom. The 3 designated campsites in Hop Valley are located north of that gate.
Presently we hop across the small creek and follow its west bank downstream. Soon we bid farewell to the beautiful valley and climb steeply northwest to a pine-studded hill, beyond which the trail descends gently along a broad bench. This bench is composed of landslide debris fallen from the ridge northeast of Burnt Mountain, the cliff-bound mesa that towers overhead.
Soon the trail leads us through several curious depressions pockmarking the slide debris. As the mass of rock broke away from the walls above us and began to slide downhill, a large volume of air was trapped beneath the slide and compressed by the overlying debris. The trapped air escaped by erupting from the slide, and thus the depressions were formed.
Reaching the northern edge of the bench, we begin to descend steadily via switchbacks amid Gambel oak thickets to the La Verkin Creek Trail (1.7; 5350). From here, we ponder our options of either returning the way we came, turning right to reach Beartrap Canyon and Willis Creek, or turning left and hiking down La Verkin Creek canyon (see Trip 23). Kolob Arch, a popular destination and justifiably so, is but a mile away via the left fork.
Trip 19
Wildcat Canyon and Northgate Peaks Trails
Distance: 6.0 miles, shuttle trip, plus 2.4 miles, round trip, to Northgate Peaks overlook.
Low/High elevations: 6910’/7460’
Suited for: Dayhike or backpack
Difficulty: Moderate
Best season: May through October
Map/Trailheads: 9/16, 17
Hazards: No water.
Introduction: This scenic trip leads the hiker from the lava rimrock to the sandstone realm of lofty domes and crags, as seen from the Northgate Peaks Trail and Pine Valley. The moderately used trail features oak-rimmed meadows, a gushing spring, and peaceful, park-like forests of ponderosa pine. Camping is allowed east of Pine Valley and the Northgate Peaks Trail junction.
The trail can be followed in either direction, but starting near Lava Point involves the least amount of ascent. A car shuttle is necessary to avoid retracing your steps. For a shorter dayhike (5 miles, round trip) without the car shuttle, take a round-trip from the lower, or Pine Valley, trailhead to Northgate Peaks overlook.
During early spring, when the Kolob Terrace Road to Lava Point may be blocked by snow, hikers must then begin the hike at the Pine Valley Trailhead. The lower part of the trail near that trailhead is often used by cross-country skiers during winter, and much of the gentle terrain of the Lower Kolob Terrace is well suited for ski touring.
Description: From the West Rim Trailhead (0.0; 7460) we stroll 150 yards down the oak-lined trail and part company with hikers taking Trip 20, turning right onto the signed Wildcat Canyon Trail. The basalt-capped rim of Lava Point rises above us to the northwest, its crest adorned with white fir forest.
Soon we pass an old grain drill, attesting to an early dry farming venture. Wheat and grass were once raised here to provide feed for livestock. The trail is actually an old road for much of the way. The road provided access to farmland and timber on the plateau. An abundance of Gambel oak attests to early logging ventures throughout much of the Lower Kolob Plateau. As sundrenched openings were created by the felling of conifer trees, the oaks, which prefer dry, sunny sites on the plateaus, quickly grew to dominate the forest.
Lava Point fades from view as we begin a descent into a small side canyon amid Gambel oak and Rocky Mountain maple. Curving into the upper reaches of Wildcat Canyon after 1.3 miles, we glimpse the white cliffs that embrace the rugged lower parts of the canyon to the south. Ahead of us on the canyon’s west side, the volcanic rim gives way to rubbly slopes composed of slide debris, decorated by a scattering of white fir, aspen, oak and maple. Reaching the dry wash in the canyon bottom (1.6; 7050), we encounter a variety of colorful wildflowers, including silky lupine, skyrocket gilia, and broom groundsel in autumn. The canyon is thickly clad in a forest of white fir, ponderosa pine, Gambel oak, and Rocky Mountain maple.
As we begin a southwestward ascent across a slope of black basalt boulders, we are treated to fine views down-canyon, the walls framing square-edged buttes and smooth sandstone cliffs. A reliable, unnamed spring (0.3; 7120), overgrown with bracken fern, issues from the broken lava above the trail. This spring is our best source of water along the entire trail, but no potential campsites exist along the trail for the following mile, so backpackers should tank up here.
View from Northgate Peaks Trail