Utah's National Parks. Ron Adkison
suddenly and unexpectedly. Floodwaters in many washes typically subside in a few hours to 24 hours.
Backcountry Camping
When choosing a campsite, observe the regulations of the particular park you’re hiking in, maintaining minimum distances from roads, trails, and particularly water sources. Desert wildlife depends upon the few springs and streams for its survival, and if backpackers camp too close, some animals, particularly the shy bighorn sheep, will avoid the water sources. Choose a durable campsite, preferably on bare ground, or on needles and duff in a pinyon-and-juniper woodland. For various reasons this guide doesn’t attempt to direct hikers to specific campsites, except where backpackers are restricted to staying in designated sites; one reason is that potential camping areas are far too numerous to mention. Campsites are everywhere, on benches in the canyons, on mesa tops, or hidden in slickrock niches; just look for them and camp far away from others so as not to disrupt their solitude. Don’t camp near water, but instead tank up at a spring or a waterhole and move on to a dry camp.
Water Safety
In all Utah national parks, rangers and park literature recommend treatment of backcountry water sources. If you’re out for two or three days, you can carry water from a developed, potable source. Hikers who wish to avoid the added weight of extra water (one gallon = 8.33 pounds) and hikers planning a longer trek where water sources are known to exist along the route must treat their water. The old standby is to boil it for at least one minute. But then it takes a while for the water to cool enough to drink, and one must carry the extra weight of fuel. Iodine or disinfectant tablets may be used, but these are less effective than boiling, and they impart an unpleasant taste to water that usually already has a high mineral content and its own distinct flavor.
The best treatment is the use of one of the pump-type filters that are widely available at outdoor equipment stores. These not only filter out microscopic bacteria and protozoans, but they also remove natural and chemical impurities and much of the mineral taste. Remember always to treat suspected water not only for drinking but even for brushing your teeth. A collapsible bucket should be carried and used to allow silty water to settle before filtering. Filtering unsettled silty water will almost instantly clog a filter. Be sure to carry brushes or extra filter cartridges to keep your filter operational. Filters can and do break down, so it is wise to have a backup method of purifying water, such as iodine tablets.
Desert Hiking
Plan your trip in advance, including possible sidetrips, and study topographic maps. Leave your itinerary with a friend or relative, and have them notify the appropriate park office if you don’t return when expected. It is easy to get sidetracked into exploring hidden canyons and mesas in the Utah desert, but try to stick to your planned route. Careful study of the topographic map before and during your trip will keep you oriented and help you to avoid unnecessary confusion.
Hiking alone in the desert is unwise, but many people do it. If you hike alone, you must take great care not to become lost and to avoid situations which might result in injury. When hiking with a group, set the pace according to the slowest member, and stay together. Don’t exceed the limits of your capabilities or those of others in your group. Before climbing steep rock, ask yourself if you are making a wise decision. Don’t climb up anything that you may not be able to get back down, and vice versa.
Many hikers who visit Utah’s national parks return time and again to this wonderful, magical land, and some develop a desire to tread beyond established trails and explore the untracked backcountry. Some cross-country hiking requires rock-climbing skills and great determination, while other routes are simply a matter of reading the topographic map and setting the right course. At times a compass is necessary, but many routes are straightforward and require no special skills other than a good memory of the landscape and the ability to stay oriented. The land can look quite different when you are traveling in the opposite direction, and the seasoned hiker pays careful attention to the landmarks and frequently takes note of the trail behind, so it will be familiar upon returning.
Upper Courthouse Wash, La Sal Mountains
The geology of Utah’s national parks is highly variable, and each rock formation has its own unique characteristics. Hidden within the 40-foot contours of topographic maps are the intricacies of the landscape that one will observe only while on the ground. While knowledge of the geology is not necessary to enjoy the Utah desert, it is important to cross-country hikers when they plan their excursions. Many rock formations form sheer cliffs, overhanging ledges, or other impassable terrain that may not be apparent on a topographic map. Thus, when planning an off-trail route, it is important to incorporate the geology into the map. Knowledge of rock formations and characteristics is gained mostly through experience, but there are several good geology books on the Colorado Plateau region that are helpful. In addition, each national park in Utah except Bryce Canyon has geologic maps, available through visitor centers, that show all the rock formations in the park. These maps are invaluable in planning cross-country routes, and are of great interest to anyone wishing to learn more about the fascinating geology of these parks.
Midget faded rattlesnake
Poisonous Desert Creatures
The Utah desert does have its share of biting and sometimes poisonous creatures. The aforementioned sand flies, or deer flies, are common in sandy washes, but mosquitoes are much less common, usually found only near water. Midges, however, are ubiquitous in all the national parks, and they inflict an itching bite even more irritating than the mosquito’s.
Tarantulas, though large and dangerous-looking, rarely bite unless provoked, but their strong jaws can inflict a painful bite. Their poison is mild, but a bacterial infection can result.
The giant desert hairy scorpion is also threatening in its appearance, but its sting is harmless except for being painful.
Black widow spiders are common but rarely seen due to their secretive nature. Take care when lifting rocks, as these creatures may be lurking underneath, and always empty your boots each morning, as spiders and scorpions are often attracted to them by warmth and moisture.
Finally, poisonous snakes are feared more than any other creature in the desert. The small midget faded rattlesnake occurs in Capitol Reef, Arches, and Canyonlands national parks, where the Hopi rattlesnake is also believed to dwell. In Bryce Canyon is the five-foot Great Basin rattlesnake, and in Zion, the western rattlesnake. Hikers are more likely to encounter a rattler in Bryce Canyon than in any other Utah park, and overall, sightings of rattlesnakes are rare. When a hiker approaches, a rattlesnake will either slither away and hide, or coil in defense. Many rattle a warning, but some do not. Pay attention to where you place your hands and feet, especially when hiking in brushy or rocky areas. Don’t panic if you are bitten; remain calm and still. Exercise only serves to transport the venom more rapidly through your body. People rarely succumb to the bite of a rattlesnake, even without the benefit of any first-aid treatment. The traditional cut-and-suck method has been found to have little value, and can actually increase your chances of infection.
A rattlesnake bite results in immediate pain accompanied by swelling. Tie a constricting band above the bite and the swelling, and remove it for 1 minute during every 15-minute period. Remain calm and quiet, and drink plenty of water. A companion should immediately go to the nearest trailhead or ranger station for help or, if you are alone, you should proceed slowly to the nearest location where people are likely to be.
Reducing Your Impact on the Desert
While the desert appears to be a durable landscape, it is actually delicate and fragile, and plant and animal life can be easily disrupted, even by walking off of established trails for only a short distance. Throughout your travels in the Utah desert, you will surely notice a black, crusty covering on bare ground, primarily on clay soils. This ground cover is an assemblage of lower plants, called a microbiotic or a cryptobiotic crust. The crust, made up of mosses, lichens, cyanobacteria (blue-green algae), and fungus in various combinations, is easily destroyed by feet