Boundary Waters Canoe Area: Western Region. Robert Beymer

Boundary Waters Canoe Area: Western Region - Robert Beymer


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U.S. Forest Service (USFS) establishes the Superior Roadless Primitive Area with boundaries similar to today’s BWCA Wilderness. 1958: The name of the Superior Roadless Area is changed by the USFS to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area. 1964: Congress passes the Wilderness Act and the BWCA becomes part of the National Wilderness Preservation System. 1978: Congress passes the BWCA Wilderness Act and President Jimmy Carter signs it into law. The bill establishes the current boundaries, containing 1,075,000 acres. It eliminates logging and snowmobiling, restricts mining, and limits the use of motorboats to 24 percent of the total water area on just a few large perimeter lakes. 1993: The Superior National Forest BWCA Wilderness Management Plan is approved. Opponents appeal but the plan is upheld by the 8th District Court. Challenges and controversy continue as parties with varied interests try to shift the way the wilderness is used, enjoyed, and protected. 2008: The 30th anniversary of the BWCAW Act is celebrated.

      Perhaps nothing represents the Boundary Waters to its visitors better than the eerie wail of the common loon, the Minnesota State Bird. Before long, nearly every visitor finds him- or herself trying to imitate the distinctive call. But many other birds are equally at home here, including the bald eagle, herring gull, great blue heron, osprey, Canadian jay, and several varieties of hawks and owls. The tranquilizing song of a white-throated sparrow is as much a part of the wilderness experience as is the scolding chirp of a red squirrel.

      The BWCAW hosts the nation’s largest population of timber wolves outside Alaska, as well as large populations of moose, white-tailed deer, black bears, beavers, and red fox. Other less visible mammals include otters, lynx, fishers, mink, muskrats, martens, weasels, and squirrels. The more quietly you travel through the wilderness, the greater are your chances of catching a glimpse of the wild creatures that make their home within the BWCAW.

      The North American moose is the largest mammal living within the BWCAW, and the most sought after “did you see” animal for most visitors. Paddling around a bend to find oneself face to face with a cow moose and her offspring is an experience of a lifetime. Males, called bulls, can weigh an average of 1,200 lbs and stand 6.5 to 7.5 feet tall at the shoulder. The distinctive antlers can sprout more than 20 tines.

      Where will you see moose? Probably the most common place to see these magnificent creatures is at the water’s edge, where they like to feed on aquatic vegetation. But they are also abundant in large open areas that have been cleared or have recently burned. The Turtle Lake, Cavity Lake, and Ham Lake fires all resulted in substantial clearing, creating habitat that is quite favorable to moose and other wildlife. As the forest in these areas grows back to maturity, the moose will move on to other regions. Fire is a natural cycle that is essential to sustaining the population of these burly beasts.

      While traveling throughout the BWCAW, always treat the wildlife and their habitat with respect. Remember that you are a visitor in the wilderness but the wild animals are residents. Don’t try to feed the animals or interfere with their normal routines. Should you find yourself near nesting birds, observe them from a distance. Human disturbance at a nest site may lead to nest abandonment and loss of eggs.

      The predominant game fishes are northern pike, walleyes, smallmouth bass, and lake trout. Black crappies and bluegills are also plentiful in many of the lakes. Even rainbow and brook trout have been stocked in some lakes.

      Contrary to the perception of most paddlers, water covers only about 12 percent of the BWCAW. A coniferous forest of jack pine, red pine, white pine, tamarack, black spruce, white spruce, balsam fir, and white cedar covers most of this region. There are also extensive stands of deciduous trees, including paper birch and quaking aspen. Very few dry land areas in the BWCAW are not forested. Bogs occupy the rest of the region that is not covered by lakes or forests.

      Black bears are common throughout the BWCAW. Although they are not considered to be dangerous and are usually quite shy around campers, they may be pests when they are searching for food—your food. Over the years bears have learned that canoe campers always travel with food packs and (unfortunately) often leave food scraps and garbage lying around their campsites. Where people most frequently camp, bears are most frequently a problem. Actually bears are not the problem, people are. Where campsites are kept clean and food packs are suspended properly, bears are not a problem. Nor are the smaller creatures that might come to depend on humans for their daily sustenance (chipmunks, mice, and the like).

      Seeing a bear on a canoe trip should be a treat, not a tragedy. Nevertheless, an unpleasant encounter with a bear could bring an abrupt end to your canoe trip—regardless of who caused the problem. There are no hard-and-fast rules to ensure protection from a bear, since bear behavior differs under different conditions. The bears you may encounter while visiting the BWCAW are wild animals and they could be dangerous; always remember that. With a few precautions, however, you should have no problems with these fascinating and beautiful creatures.

      Avoid camping on the most popular lakes where there are numerous, frequently occupied campsites located relatively close together. A small island located well away from the shoreline and away from other islands offers a degree of safety. But don’t let an island campsite lull you into a false sense of security. Bears are very good swimmers.

      When you are away from your campsite (even just fishing nearby) and at night, always hang your food pack off the ground. It should be at least 10 feet above the ground and 6 feet away from tree trunks and large limbs. Bears are good climbers, so the food must be a safe distance away from the trunk and from any limbs large enough to support a bear’s weight. Hanging a food pack can be a frustrating process without some forethought and practice. Take a look at the wide selection of hanging systems available through outdoor specialty stores and practice using them before you take your trip. Never store food in your tent. And if food was spilled on your clothes, leave your clothes outside your tent at night. Remember that strong-smelling items like toothpaste, deodorant, and soap should be stored away from your tent.

      Keep a clean campsite. Thoroughly burn or safely bury all food scraps and leftover grease, or seal your garbage in an airtight plastic bag and carry it with your food pack. Do not dispose of leftovers in the latrine. Bears will find them and destroy the latrine in the process.

      Never get between a mother bear and her cub(s). If you see a cub, its mother is probably nearby. Female bears are extremely protective of their young.

      If a bear does wander into your campsite, don’t panic. Bears are usually frightened off by loud noises; Try yelling or banging some pots together. Don’t charge the bear; it may become defensive. If a stubborn bear does not back off or acts strangely, move to another campsite.

      Finally, don’t let a fear of black bears detract from your enjoyment of the wilderness. Use good common sense, observe the tips above, and you should have no problem with bears—or any other wild animal.

      For paddlers planning a trip to the BWCA, the season lasts just five short months—May through September—and each month can offer a very different travel experience along the same route. Northern lakes are usually free of ice by the beginning of May (always check before heading up) but the forest isn’t completely green for a few more weeks. June can be wet, cool, and plagued by the mind-numbing buzz of a billion hungry mosquitoes. Fisherman often pay the insects little heed and enjoy good fishing conditions in June, knowing that by July and August, when the temperatures are fine for paddlers and campers, the fishing may turn sluggish. Deeper into the summer months, streams that had been gushing with spring snow melt early in the season may not have enough flow to transport a loaded canoe.


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