Sierra South. Mike White
out of the pines and passes larger granite boulders and sandy open flats. The route than makes a short descent and winds through more meadow and sandy forest for the next 2 miles.
After the trail gains a ridge and turns to the southeast, the vista opens dramatically, with sweeping views through the trees across the granitic North Fork Kings River’s canyon. The trail follows a sandy wash down short switchbacks and then meets low-angle granite slabs near the river. There are many relaxing lunch spots here, along with plenty of water and several refreshing swimming holes farther down the trail to the south. There are many campsites near this juncture if a short day is in order. Fishing along the river is good for brook, brown, and rainbow trout.
Bouldering below Blackcap Mountain
The majestic North Fork Kings River
From here, the trail continues southeastward and reenters the ubiquitous pine forest. On the left side of the path, yellow-green lichen coats house-sized granite boulders nestled among the trees, while ferns and dense thickets of manzanita carpet the forest floor.
After a meandering half mile, the trail comes to a moderate clearing with a California Cooperative Snow Survey log cabin next to a waterfall and a large pool in the river. The trail exits the left side of this clearing to the southeast and continues on another half mile to the signed Devils Punchbowl/Big Maxson Meadow Trail junction (8183’; 11S 334724 4105551). There are several superb campsites just before the signed junction, across the granite slabs, next to the river on the west side of the trail.
DAY 3 (North Fork Kings River to Guest Lake, 6.9 miles, part cross-country): The trail leaves the signed Devils Punchbowl/Maxson Meadow junction by the right fork (southeast), staying parallel with North Fork Kings River. After crossing several small branches of Meadow Brook, the tread heads up a short set of stone stairs and crosses open granite slabs near a large pool. The normally rough granite has been worn down by the passage of the water, and several of the pools make for great swimming holes.
The path continues southeast and climbs gently up dirt and loose rock for about a mile until reaching the rocky ford of Fall Creek (wet in early season). Follow the trail 300 yards after the last ford of the creek to the point where a faint trail turns to the left (east) from the main trail; from here, the main trail goes far out of your way. So take the angler’s use trail. It’s indistinct near the bottom, but many ducks become apparent as it climbs higher. If you lose the trail, head cross-country generally east-northeast up the hill parallel with the creek, keeping Fall Creek about 200 yards away on your left side. The trail is steep and occasionally loose, so exercise caution while ascending. At the top, find expansive views all the way back down the valley.
Once it reaches the low-angle granite slabs at the top, the route levels off and once again enters dense lodgepole forest. Shortly thereafter, the route joins the main trail ascending from Big Maxson Meadow and begins a lazy traverse through 2 miles of beautiful foliage and dense ferns. In the spring, shooting star, penstemon, larkspur, monkshood, monkeyflower, columbine, wallflower, and paintbrush line the path. In late season, the ferns turn yellow, carpeting the forest floor with broad brushstrokes of color.
After traversing the forested meadow, the trail starts to climb again and culminates with a short but steep climb to the rim of the McGuire Lakes. The meadow-lined banks of the lake appear suddenly and make a welcome rest stop after the strenuous climb. From the vantage of the lake’s shores, it becomes apparent that this point is the entrance to a hanging valley. Rising proudly to the southeast is Blackcap Mountain; its granite summit blocks sit outlined like a dark sentinel against the vibrant red alpenglow at sunset.
HANGING VALLEYS
Hanging valleys occur when a tributary glacier carves its valley more slowly than does the larger glacier of which it is a tributary. In time, the larger glacier’s valley floor will be well below the tributary glacier’s. The tributary’s valley is left “hanging” high on the wall of the main valley after the glaciers melt, and the tributary’s stream drops, often from a lake, into the deeper main valley in the form of cascades and waterfalls. Yosemite’s Bridalveil and Yosemite falls are classic examples of this process. McGuire Lakes sit in one of a series of such hanging valleys that line the flanks of the LeConte Divide.
The trail skirts the lake, curving north and then south along the lake through sparse pine and large granite boulders. After the footpath veers east and crosses a short ridge, Guest Lake is visible straight ahead. There are comfortable campsites on the south side of Guest Lake among the large boulders and more sites along the north bank in the trees (10,195´; 11S 340056 4105107). If these sites are crowded, consider continuing on the fisherman’s trail another mile north to Horsehead Lake, where a few campsites dot the southeast shore. There is good fishing at Guest Lake for brook trout.
EXPLORING BENCH VALLEY
If your itinerary allows time for a layover day, Guest Lake makes a fantastic base camp from which to explore the rest of the Bench Valley lakes. A wonderful dayhike follows the angler’s use trail northward to Horsehead Lake, and then explores Roman Four Lake, Twin Buck Lakes, and Schoolmarm Lake. Anglers will encounter brook and rainbow at Horsehead Lake, brook at Roman Four Lake, rainbow at West Twin Buck Lake (East Twin Buck Lake is barren), and small rainbow at Schoolmarm Lake. There is also wonderful bouldering on the granite outcroppings surrounding Guest Lake. Rock climbers will be tempted to explore the inviting cracks bisecting the towering granite walls overhead. The climbing here is of such quality that the walls would surely be crowded, were it not for the high price of admission.
DAYS 4–6 (Guest Lake to Maxson Trailhead, 20 miles): Retrace your steps.
9 Red Mountain Basin
Trip Data: 11S 337471 4110684 (at Devils Punchbowl); 6/2 days; 34 miles
Topos: Courtright Reservoir, Ward Mountain, Blackcap Mt., Mt. Henry
Highlights: This trip takes an old sheepherder’s route, known as the Baird Trail, from the subalpine meadows at Post Corral Creek to the stunning alpine scenery surrounding Devils Punchbowl, a lake in remote Red Mountain Basin and a good spot from which to explore the basin. The trek then descends via Meadow Brook, one of the Sierra’s most picturesque subalpine meadows, to take in spectacular views of the North Fork Kings River.
DAY 1 (Maxson Trailhead to Post Corral Meadows, 7.5 miles): (Recap: Trip 7, Day 1.) Leaving the trailhead from the west side, head north along the marked trail for 300 yards until it joins the Dusy Jeep Trail. After about 1 mile, an obvious log signed NO MOTOR VEHICLES bars vehicles; cross the log and turn right (northeast). Go generally north next to a small creek for a half mile before fording it at the entrance to Maxson Meadows. Follow a raised wood and sand trail designed to help protect the area.
After passing Chamberlain’s Camp, the trail climbs about a mile of rocky switchbacks. Beyond, the trail levels off in a dense stand of lodgepole pine and comes to the signed Hobler Lake/Post Corral Meadows junction (8872´; 11S 327623 4110278). Take the right fork (east).
The trail is briefly wide and flat and then begins to descend short switchbacks. Where the sandy trail leaves the forest, cross a seasonal creek and enter Long Meadow. Late-starters will find several campsites (8544´; 11S 329085 4110671) on the small, short rise to the north of the meadow.
Traverse Long Meadow and then descend to a poorly signed junction with the Burnt Corral Creek Trail (easily missed when heading east along this route; don’t worry if you don’t see it). Continue ahead (east) next to the stream and then ford it after about 0.75 mile.
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