Annapurna. Siân Pritchard-Jones
left his wife and newborn son to become an ascetic, wandering far and wide, listening to sages, wise men and Brahmin priests. However, he found no solace until he achieved enlightenment through the Middle Path.
Buddhism has two branches: Hinayana and Mahayana. The latter path is followed in Nepal and Tibet, where it has evolved into a more esoteric philosophy called the Vajrayana (Diamond) Path. It blends ancient Tibetan Bon ideas with a phenomenon known as Tantra, meaning ‘to open the mind’. Tantra basically asserts that each person is a Buddha and can find enlightenment from within.
The dazzling proliferation of Buddhist artistry and iconography is startling. Even the most sanguine atheist will surely find something uplifting about Nepal’s rich and colourful Buddhist heritage.
The following Buddhist sects are found across the Annapurna region:
Nyingma-pa is the oldest Buddhist sect; its adherents are known as the Red Hats. Guru Rinpoche was its founder in the eighth century AD. Today the Nyingma-pa sect is found across the high Himalayas of Nepal, in Tibet, Spiti and Ladakh.
Kadam-pa was developed by Atisha, a Buddhist scholar from northern India, during his studies at Toling Gompa in the Guge region of Western Tibet. He suggested that followers should find enlightenment after careful reflection and study of the texts.
Kagyu-pa is a sect attributed to the Indian mystic translator Marpa (AD1012–97), a disciple of Atisha. Adherents concentrate their meditations on inner mental and spiritual matters, following the wisdom of their teachers. The Kagyu-pa sect split into a number of sub-groups, such as the Drigung-pa, Druk-pa, Taglung-pa and the Karma-pa.
Sakya-pa began in the 11th century under Konchok Gyalpo from the Sakya Gompa in Tibet. Followers study existing Buddhist scriptures and created the two great Tibetan Buddhist bibles, the Tangyur and Kangyur.
Gelug-pa is the Yellow Hat sect of the Dalai Lama. Tsong Khapa, the 14th-century reformer, redefined the ideals of Atisha and reverted to a more purist format, putting more emphasis on morality and discipline.
Bonpo
Bon idol, Kunzang Gyalwa Dupa, Naurikot (Trek 1)
In 1977 the Tibetan government-in-exile recognised and accepted the ancient Bon as a Tibetan sect. The Bon’s spiritual head is the Trizin, and its spiritual home is the Triten Norbutse Gompa; anyone interested in Bon should visit the complex near Swayambhunath, such is the rarity of any active Bon culture today. The Bonpo worshipped natural phenomena, like the heavens and mountain spirits, as well as natural powers such as rivers, trees and thunder. The chief icon of the Bon is Tonpa Shenrap Miwoche. The Bon seek the eternal truth and reality of life, as do Buddhists.
See Appendix B for further details. Other religions with a limited following in Nepal are Islam, Christianity, Sikhism and Shamanism.
Festivals
Nepal has an extraordinary number of festivals – any excuse for a good celebration! During the high season for trekkers, the Dasain and Tihar festivals can occasionally disrupt those trying to obtain the necessary trekking documents. During Dasain, the goddesses Kali and Durga are feted and the terrifying white Bhairab is allowed out of his cage in Kathmandu’s Durbar Square. (Blood sacrifices are the most noticeable aspect of these celebrations; these are not for the squeamish.) Tihar is a much more light-hearted affair, with crows, dogs, cows and brothers celebrated on different days before a final party night of fairy lights and candles.
During the early spring, trekkers may witness Losar, the Tibetan New Year, celebrated primarily at Boudhanath. Tibetan drama and colourful masked Cham dances can be seen; the Black Hat dance celebrates the victory of Buddhism over Bon. Mi Tsering, the goblin-like clown, mocks the crowd with great mirth.
In spring at Pashupatinath is Shiva Ratri: the night of Shiva. Holi is another festival celebrated across the country. Watch out during this festival, as coloured dyes are thrown at passers-by; tourists and trekkers are fair game! The cavalcade of the white Seto Machhendranath idol also takes place in spring, when a tall wooden chariot housing this rain god is dragged through old Kathmandu, often pulling down power lines and brushing the top storeys of the old brick houses of Asan. A similar festival takes place in May, when the red Rato Machhendranath is hauled around Patan and back out to Bungamati.
Cultural considerations
Despite contact with the outside world since 1950, Nepal remains a conservative country, especially in the remoter hilly districts. Avoid overt expressions of affection and always dress modestly – anywhere in Nepal – to avoid causing offence. Skimpy shorts and tops are fine in St Tropez, but wearing such attire here could cause embarrassment (and invariably some lewd comments from the locals behind your back). In the icy confines of the high mountains, an inappropriate state of partial undress is unlikely to be an issue – unless you have already become an ascetic!
It’s a rare thing for a non-believer to be allowed into the inner sanctuaries of Hindu temples anywhere across the country; remember that leather apparel, belts and shoes are not permitted inside. When visiting monasteries, remove trekking hats and boots before entry. Small donations are appreciated in monasteries and photographers should ask before taking pictures inside. On the trail, keep to the left of mani walls and chortens (religious devotional structures: see Appendix B) and circle them in a clockwise direction. The mantra ‘Om Mani Padme Hum’ – Hail to the Jewel in the Lotus – is inscribed on these walls, on stones and on prayer wheels.
Buddhist chortens, Tange, Mustang (Trek 5)
If you are invited into a local house, remember that the cooking area, hearth and fire are treated with reverence. Do not throw litter there. Never sit in such a way as to point the soles of your feet at your hosts, or step over their feet. Avoid touching food, and be careful to eat with your right hand if no utensils are available. Never touch a Nepali on the head.
Begging
Begging is endemic in Nepal, possibly putting a brake on development and local initiative. Seen from the Nepalese point of view, all foreigners are rich, and therefore fair game to be enticed into parting with some of their hard-earned cash. Ordinarily no one will mind this, but in the long term local people need to be helped to help themselves; simply handing out money is not the answer.
Begging is not confined to the poverty-stricken lower classes; even the higher echelons have the same attitude – there will always be some rich overseas government to build a road or desperately needed hydro plant, and so on. Western governments, the UN and large donors continue to ignore the unaccountability of bribery and slush funds, while boasting about how much they give to the poor.
The world still seems to see Nepal as a begging-bowl case. In fact, the wealth of talent in the country is amazing; the ‘make something from nothing’ and the ‘make do and mend’ culture shows a level of ingenuity that has almost disappeared in the throwaway societies of the developed world. Given the opportunity, Nepal will flourish and prosper.
Helping the community
The world’s big donor organisations and charities hold a soft spot for Nepal. This is in no small part due to its welcoming and charismatic people, many of whom are exceedingly industrious. The effect of these multinational donations is not often felt directly by the majority of the people, so there is plenty of scope for small initiatives to be implemented by visitors who wish to help. Often it is these projects – improving village water supplies or local electrification, for example – that really make a difference. Check out some of these local projects below.
Autism Care Nepal (www.autismnepal.org) There was very little knowledge of this condition in Nepal when their son was diagnosed with autism, so two Nepali doctors founded this organisation to raise awareness and help others in the same situation.
Beni Handcrafts (www.benihandcrafts.com)