Mountain Biking in Slovenia. Rob Houghton
Soča Valley is a little bit different. The magnificent turquoise river defines this region and the tone of the rides change as you head further downstream. Higher up, where the river is a turbulent, troublesome teenager, you’ll still get those long, high days out in the Alps with their tough climbs and long descents. As the river calms and begins to take its time, you’ll find that the rides become a little less physically demanding (although no less rewarding). As you leave the national park, you’ll also find a little more freedom in where you can ride and a few more singletrack descents will creep in. Wherever I’ve been able, however, I have routed the trails alongside this most beautiful of rivers so that the rider can enjoy the full Soča experience.
The spectacular River Soča (Route 9)
Further south our routes flatten out somewhat and become a good deal more varied. You might find yourself riding among the forests of the Nanos plateau, where the undulating terrain belies the views you’ll glimpse, from the southern edge all the way across to the Adriatic sea. Or you might be weaving your way in and out of vineyards in the warmth of a Mediterranean afternoon, looking forward to your seafood supper. There are the tremendous limestone caves of the Karst region around Postojna and the magical, ephemeral lake at Cerknica that disappears in the summer. None of these rides will overly tax your technical skills and, physically, they are generally much less demanding than the rides further north. This region is for relaxing days out and long, lazy evenings.
Finally we move to the central and north-east region, where the riding becomes a bit harder again. The Savinjske Alpe chain runs through this area and suddenly we’re back on tough climbs and extended descents. The main difference with Gorenjska, however, is that these trails feel a good deal more remote as there are far fewer people around. The area around Črna, with its quiet alpine trails, may be the best the country has to offer but it is a bit out of the way. Maribor, however, cannot be said to be out of the way. There is a fantastic variety of riding to be had around the second city, from Nanos-esque plateau riding to the World Cup downhill course on the ski fields of Pohorje.
Purpose-built trails have grown in popularity in recent years and Slovenia has now become something of a haven for national mountain bike teams looking for quiet training grounds. However, many of the trails remain as adapted bridleways and retain an authentic, adventurous cross-country feel. You’re as likely to find yourself tackling a 7km descent as you are to be following a turquoise river or winding through ancient forest. In addition, many of the ski resorts now provide summer downhill riding, using their uplift infrastructure to hoik your bike to the summit for you.
Almost empty trails await you: entering the village of Avber (Route 19)
There’s other great infrastructure for riders too. As well as the purpose-built trails there are good maps for all of the cycling regions, and the tourist information centres provide great advice. Bike hire or repair is also easy. Everywhere you go, there are well-stocked bike shops with knowledgeable staff (who almost certainly speak English) and the gear and components you’re used to.
In short, there really is no excuse for not going. Everything you could possibly require from a biking holiday is available in Slovenia. How about excellent and hearty food and drink? Got it. Fancy a ride in a cave? Sorted. What about a sauna after a day out on the hills? Check. Do you want all this and to pay less (a lot less) for it than you would in, say, France? Then stop faffing around, buy this guide and book your ticket.
Fancy a spot of cave biking? (Route 22)
Getting there
Travelling with a bike
Travelling with a bike can be a hassle. If this is the first time you’ve taken an overseas mountain biking trip and you’re thinking of taking your own bike, you should consider a few things. Firstly, you’ll need to pack the bike well – particularly if you’re flying. Many people simply buy or borrow a cardboard box from a bike shop and ship their machine in that. If you’re planning to do that, make sure everything is well padded – particularly the rear mech and your lovely paintwork.
Another option is to buy a purpose-made bike box, which might set you back anything between £200 and £600. For that price, however, they provide excellent protection for the bike while it’s in transit. Do remember, if you’re removing either of the wheels and you have hydraulic disc brakes, to put a spacer between the pads to prevent the calipers from locking shut.
It’s also worth remembering that whatever means you’ve used to ship your bike out to Slovenia, you’ll need to store the box somewhere until you’re ready to bring the bike back in it. There is left-luggage at the major airports servicing Slovenia, but a car at the other end might be the most practical solution.
Flying
Slovenia is well serviced by budget airlines, although the services change rapidly and new ones become available all of the time. At the time of writing, direct flights to the country’s capital, Ljubljana, could be had from Stansted, Luton, Paris, Berlin, Vienna, Brussels, Copenhagen and many other cities in Europe. Flying from outside Europe, however, you’ll need to head to one of the other regional hubs such as Venice, Trieste or Graz. The advantage of Slovenia is that, being small, it doesn’t take long to get from one of these hubs to the trails. From Venice, it’s about two hours by car to Slovenia; from Graz it’s about one hour; and Trieste is virtually on the border.
Always check with your airline, before you book, how much it will cost to transport your bike. Prices and provision can vary and some of the budget airlines, in particular, can be a little tricky in the way the information is presented on their websites. You may choose to leave the bike at home, which shouldn’t be a problem as all of the main trail areas have good bike-hire available.
Taking the train
If you’re heading to Slovenia from one of the outer edges of Europe, catching the train is a relatively quick way of getting there without the hassle of airports and baggage limits. The simplest route from the UK is to take the Eurostar to Paris and from there to Strasbourg. From Strasbourg, there is an overnight train to Vienna and from there it’s just a short trip to Jesenice in Slovenia and the heart of the mountains. The whole trip is less than two days. Other options from other parts of Europe are also possible but entry into the north at Jesenice or into Brežice from Zagreb are the easiest by far.
Always check the provision for bicycle carriage with the train companies before travelling as it can vary widely between countries – and even within them, depending on the type of service.
Driving
If you have the time, driving to Slovenia might be the best option if you have a lot to carry or you’re heading there from a country not too far away.
The roads across most of Europe are excellent and Slovenia is well serviced with border entries along highways. You can enter from Italy at Gorizia or Trieste, from Austria at Villach, Wolfsberg or Graz, from Hungary into Lendava and from Croatia at a number of points. Of course, as Slovenia is in the Schengen zone, none of these crossings requires a passport. If cost or time is an issue, you can sleep in your vehicle at many of the motorway service stations along the way; this is commonly done on the continent and many of the stops have shower facilities.
Getting around
Assuming you haven’t driven there, once you’re in Slovenia it is perfectly possible to get about by public transport. However, it can be inconvenient for a mountain biker, particularly in rural areas. The buses don’t always go exactly where you need them to and, in any case, can’t carry a bike. The trains are good in Slovenia but there aren’t many rail lines and they don’t often go near the areas that we require, except for major towns such as Jesenice, Bled, Postojna or Maribor. The best option, therefore, is probably to hire a car.
It’s best to book a car before you leave