Walking and Trekking in the Gran Paradiso. Gillian Price
cannot be expected to accept anything but euros in cash. Charges for bed and board were about €40-€50 a night at the time of writing, not including drinks. Credit cards are rarely accepted. Most large villages and towns have a cash point.
Mezza pensione or half board (meaning dinner, bed and breakfast) is commonly offered and usually an excellent deal. The huts all offer hot meals at both lunch and dinner. You may have the choice of a pasta dish or minestrone vegetable soup, followed by second courses of meat and various side dishes. Vegetarians will need to request special meals, which are not usually a problem and they will whip you up an omelette or cheese dish.
Regional culinary specialities may be on offer. Among those worth trying are: polenta concia, a delicious and filling thick cornmeal porridge mixed with cheese; delicate carbonata, meat stewed in red wine with spices; risotto alla valdostana, a rice dish with melted local cheeses such as fontina and toma. An interesting, if limited, array of wines comes from the few vineyards in the Valle d'Aosta, usually supplemented by the fuller-bodied (and less costly) Piemonte wines such as Barbera and Nebbiolo. Stronger stuff comes in the form of aromatic Genepì, known for its digestive properties and made from the flowers of the same name (and not to be confused with juniper). The grolla, a decorated covered wooden bow with multiple mouthpieces, may appear after dinner – filled with a memorable mixture of coffee, red wine, grappa, sugar and lemon. It is passed around for measured sips and so called the ‘cup of friendship’.
Local refuges with accommodation and guesthouses are listed alongside each walk description, complete with sleeping capacity and opening period. These dates will vary from year to year depending on local conditions, so, if in doubt, especially at the start or close of the season, do check by phoning the refuge itself or asking at the nearest tourist office. Generally speaking the summer season means mid-June to mid-September. Intrepid ski tourers will be pleased to know that many rifugi open in spring to accommodate them.
Summer advance bookings are only really necessary on July or August weekends and will only usually be held until 6pm. Should you change your route, do notify the refuge to cancel as expensive rescue operations (billed to you) might be set in motion when you don't show up. Guests should always sign the register and indicate their next destination (or tell hotel staff their planned route for the day) as it could help point rescuers in the right direction in a search.
In refuges, ‘lights out’ is 10pm-6am when the refuge generator is turned off, although breakfast may be served pre-dawn if the hut serves as a base for an important ascent. Walking boots, together with bulky ice and mountaineering gear, should be left on appropriate racks in the hallway and slippers are often provided. In line with Italian law, smoking is not allowed inside anywhere.
Bivacco Davito (Walk 26)
As well as the main premises, most refuges have a ricovero invernale, literally a ‘winter shelter’. Spartan but always open, they are intended primarily for emergency use when the refuge is closed, although they could also be used by walkers out of season. Intending users will need to be fully equipped with sleeping bag, food, stove, utensils and so on. Water is usually available in the vicinity.
Bivouac huts
A bivacco hut can be the classic mountaineer type, a rounded metal container (with basic bunk beds and blankets), or, at best, a converted shepherd's hut with running water, wood or gas stove and blankets. They are not always left open, thanks to inconsiderate users in the past. Information on where to collect the key can be found under the relevant walk. Please leave the premises in good condition. There is not usually any charge to use them, but a donation is always a good idea to go towards maintenance costs.
You will also come across a series of modest huts, 38 in all, marked on maps as Capanna or Casotto PNGP. They belong to the park for exclusive use by the rangers, and are not available to walkers.
Camping
Wild camping is forbidden within the Gran Paradiso National Park, and allowed only outside its borders above 2500m. However, there are good facilities in most valleys and many camping grounds also have bungalows.
Vallon di Cogne:
Al Sole (Lillaz) Tel 0165 74237 www.campingalsole.com, open year-round
Gran Paradiso (Valnontey) Tel 0165 749204 www.campeggiogranparadisocogne.it, open June to Sept
Lo Stambecco (Valnontey) Tel 0165 74152 www.campeggiolostambecco.it, open May to Sept
Les Salasses (Lillaz) Tel 0165 74252 www.campingcogne.it, open year-round
Valsavarenche:
Pont-Breuil (Pont) Tel 0165 95458 www.campingpontbreuil.com, open May to Sept
Gran Paradiso (Plan de la Presse) Tel 0165 905801 www.campinggranparadiso.it, open June to Sept
Grivola (Bien) Tel 0165 905743 www.campinghotelgrivola.com, open April to Sept
Val di Rhêmes:
Val di Rhêmes (Rhêmes-Saint-Georges) Tel 0165 907648 www.campingvaldirhemes.com, open May to Sept
Valle dell'Orco:
Piccolo Paradiso (Ceresole Reale) Tel 0124 953235 www.campingpiccoloparadiso.it, open April to Oct
Villa (Villa) Tel 346 5792146 www.campingvilla.it, open April to Oct
Valle de la Thuile:
Rutor (Villaret) Tel 333 1372961 www.campingrutor.altervista.org, open June to Sept
Val Veny:
La Sorgente (Peuterey) Tel 389 9020772 www.campinglasorgente.net, open summer
Aiguille Noire (Zerotta) Tel 0165 869041 www.aiguillenoire.com, open summer
Val Veny (Cuignon) Tel 0165 869073, open summer
What to take
The choice of gear to take can make or break a walking holiday. It is worth spending time beforehand on careful preparation. The following checklist may be helpful.
Comfortable lightweight rucksack with waist straps; plastic bags or stuff bags to keep the contents organised
Walking boots with ankle support and non-slip soles, preferably already worn in
Light footwear such as sandals for the evenings
Lightweight sleeping sheet or sleeping bag liner, essential for overnight stays in mountain huts (on sale in many CAI rifugi)
Small towel and personal toiletries in small containers
First aid kit and personal medicines
Rainproof gear – either an anorak, overtrousers and rucksack cover or a large poncho. Walkers who wear spectacles will appreciate a folding umbrella, although it won't be much use in a high wind
Telescopic trekking poles to distribute rucksack weight over the body and off wonky knees will provide psychological support during steep descents and stream crossings, keep sheep dogs at bay or even double as a washing line
Sunglasses, hat, chapstick and high factor cream. For every 1000m