Isle of Man Coastal Path. Aileen Evans
1986 to mark the island‘s Heritage Year. In its journey round the Isle of Man Raad ny Foillan offers a variety of scenery, from the rugged cliffs and mountain moorland in the south, to the glens, beaches and dunes of the north. It wends its way through several nature reserves and along a disused railway. It passes scenes of historical interest, colourful fishing villages and peaceful havens. It takes to the road in several places, yet these country lanes have their own charm and little traffic. The single stretch of main road is of short duration. The footpath is never far from the sea or the cry of the gull. It is suitable for the gentle walker to do in short day-walk sections, for the dedicated backpacker, and for the fit fell-runner to set up his own personal record for the delightful circuit of this beautiful island.
The idea of a coastal footpath was first promoted by a former Governor of the Island, Sir Ambrose Flux Dunas, himself a keen rambler. There was no legislation similar to the Parks and Countryside Act in the UK, but he paved the way for the 1961 Rights of Way Act. By 1973 maps were prepared and the task of waymarking and improving sections of the coastal path began. Dave Woods, the Rights of Way Officer, took on the task and in the Heritage Year, 1986, Raad ny Foillan was opened.
In this guide I have tried to introduce you to the Isle of Man as I have found it. As a child I visited Douglas, and returned with memories of seaside bustle, horse-drawn trams and a lurching ship. My next visit was as a rock climber, which fixed memories of a rugged coastline with crags and secret coves. A third visit was as a backpacker to walk the coastal path. It far exceeded my expectations. After the first day, gone were all my preconceived ideas of roaring motorbikes sporting dayglow stickers. I came away with pictures of primroses in Glen Maye, the sunset turning the surf to gold and the wet noses of the seals as they questioned my presence so close to their domain. I hope that as you follow the Manx footpaths you will collect as many happy memories as I did.
The introduction to the guide covers the practicalities necessary to organise your ‘expedition’, as well as interesting things to be seen on the way and their background.
The description of Raad ny Foillan sets out the circuit in stages, the longest being 15½ miles, the shortest 7 miles. The fast walker may wish to complete two stages per day, while those progressing at a more leisurely pace may decide to amble along and take in the diverting attractions along the way. I chose to begin at Douglas simply because I arrived by boat and was keen to literally step from the quay onto the footpath. As the way borders Ronaldsway Airport the starting point is a matter of choice and presents no problem.
The footpath is waymarked and so, together with the information given in this guide, should enable the walker to progress easily and, if adverse conditions arise, safely.
The guide also covers the island’s first long-distance footpath, the Millennium Way, which was opened in 1979 to celebrate the millennium year of Tynwald. This follows an ancient route from Ramsey to Castletown. Bayr ny Skeddan (the Herring Way), established in 1986, is an old trade route from Peel to Castletown.
Although the Isle of Man sits snuggly in the Irish Sea surrounded by the British Isles, it is different from the rest of the United Kingdom. UK money is accepted, but your change may become mixed with the Manx currency, which is legal tender only on the island. The island government also issue their own stamps. If you post anything on the island, it must have a Manx stamp. The Isle of Man is part of the mainland telephone network and has good cellphone coverage.
The pace of life is easy; people seem to have time to talk. I obtained some helpful advice from a gang of commissioners (council workers) who were laying a hedge. A fisherman mending his nets was only too pleased to inform me of the state of the Irish Sea and its fish over the last 10 years. (Things are vastly improved, by the way.)
Although the early Manxmen were of Celtic origin, Man was part of the Norwegian Kingdom of the Hebrides until 1266. It is now a self-governing Crown Dependency, the Lieutenant-Governor being the Queen‘s representative on the island.
The legislature, The Tynwald, has two branches. The first is the Legislative Council that comprises the President of Tynwald, the Bishop, the Attorney and eight members. The other branch is the House of Keys, which has 24 elected members. The Isle of Man has a special relationship with the EU but does not contribute to, nor receive, funds from its budget.
Douglas is the capital of the island, a position held by Castletown until 1869. It is the home of Manx Radio, which was the first commercial radio station in the British Isles.
Campervans are allowed on the island all year round but caravans require a permit and can stay only up to three weeks on an approved campsite, thus it remains free from the coastal developments that have so despoiled much of Britain’s coastline. The Manx treat their coastline as a prized asset and are making every effort to maintain its present beauty. Long-distance walkers will inevitably compare Raad ny Foillan favourably with the South West Peninsula Path of Devon and Cornwall, where huge static caravan sites often dominate the scenery.
Important to the walker is that inns and hotels are open seven days a week. Most serve food and you can sample the real Manx ale. An ancient law prohibits the use of any substitutes for malt, sugar or hops, so you do get the real local brew. The Manx ice-cream is the genuine article too. I cannot vouch for the ale, but I can definitely give the thumbs up to the ice-cream.
Aileen Evans, Preston
INTRODUCTION
How to get there
The Isle of Man Steam Packet Company has regular sailings from Heysham, Liverpool and Birkenhead to Douglas, and from Belfast and Dublin to Douglas (summer service and the Christmas holiday period only). Car parking is available at the dock.
For details of timetables and fares consult the Isle of Man Steam Packet Company (tel: 08705 523 523 www.steam-packet.com).
All boats are drive on/off car ferries
Bicycles are transported free
Dogs are allowed, and a dedicated area of the lounge is set aside
Trailer caravans are not permitted on the island without a permit. Self-propelled motor caravans are welcome, as are tenting campers.
By air there is a daily service to Ronaldsway from the following airports: Belfast, Birmingham, Dublin, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Liverpool, London City, London Gatwick, London Luton, Manchester and Newcastle. Note: there is no service into London Heathrow.
The coastal footpath is within a mile of the island’s airport (tel: 01624 821600; www.iomguide.com).
The Sea Cat arrives at Douglas harbour
The best time to walk
Everyone hopes for good weather, and you can increase your chances to some extent by looking at the past meteorological reports (see also ‘Climate’, below). May and June stand out as the months with a good sunshine average and little rainfall. The holiday season begins in June and is virtually over by mid-September, yet in the middle of the season I met very few people on the footpath, except around the Sound Cafe where tourists were taking the air within sight of the car park. Most walkers that I met were Manx and were pleased to see a ‘foreigner’ enjoying their coastline.
Spring brings flowers to the glens and migrant birds to the beaches. Late summer glows with the dwarf gorse in flower, heather in bloom and sunsets on the west coast that make an extra amble around in the twilight worthwhile.
If there is a time of year to avoid it is late May, early June and early September: the weeks of the motorcycle and car rallies.