Switzerland's Jura Crest Trail. Ali Rowsell
Hauenstein. Military history is evidenced throughout Stage 3, as you follow the World War I road carved into the mountain below Belchenflue. Remains of a hilltop fortress are passed, comprising small bunkers and outbuildings. Grubens, large hidden holes dug in an attempt to prevent tanks from entering Switzerland in World War II, alongside ‘toblerone’ tank traps and deeply sunk metal defences, can also be seen in the area. As you near the end of Stage 3, prominent geological features, such as the summit of the Roggenflue (995m), lead to a dramatic descent deep into the gorge at Balsthal, with commanding views of the upcoming Stage 4 ascent of 700m along the knife-edge Hällchöpfli summit.
Looking east along the Jura Crest Trail from the summit of Belchenflue (Stage 3)
Between Stages 4 and 5 from Balsthal to Frinvillier, over 30km of undulating ridgelines and high alpine pastures filled with wildflowers can be enjoyed. With a narrow, steep ascent from Balsthal winding its way up forested hillsides before opening onto rolling open alpine meadows en route to the Weissenstein, noticeable high points enable panoramic views alongside local access to other recreational activities such as a high-ropes course at Balmberg. The two stages remain high on the Jura, with several access points to local towns for amenities. This part of the Jura is popular with locals due to its access to well-maintained trails and good mountain restaurants. Nearing the end of Stage 5, the trail continues on wide farm paths and begins to become intermittently scattered with small chalets belonging to the local community. The trail then begins its gentle descent through the forest into Frinvillier.
Beginning close to the city of Biel/Bienne, Stages 6–8 involve a steep ascent from the Frinvillier gorge up to the prominent summit of Chasseral. From there, a remote, narrow path is followed along a rocky, forested ridgeline for most of the trail. The landscape changes noticeably as you approach the Tablettes and Noiraigue with their steep limestone karst and sheer drops, culminating in the spectacular amphitheatre of the Creux du Van. This region is famed for its absinthe, a highly alcoholic beverage becoming popular again, following the prohibition of it for many years. Along the route, there are opportunities to visit and sample the beverage in local buvettes, mountain hotels and museums.
Geological wonders can be found at the beginning of Stages 9, 10 and 11, where prominent summit peaks of the Creux du Van (1463m), Aiguille de Baulmes (1559m) and Dent de Vaulion (1483m) are passed before reaching landscape typical of the Jura: rolling high alpine meadows, forests and farmland pastures. The Creux du Van, sitting above the town of Noiraigue, is a perfect example of the Jura limestone seen at its best. The trail passes along the top of the impressive 160m-high vertical rock wall amphitheatre within a 1km-wide valley, offering stunning views of this geological formation. Aiguille de Baulmes, a sharp pinnacle of rock, is passed shortly after leaving Sainte-Croix, which sits within 600 metres with the border of France. World War II relics are passed around the base, a reminder of how close Switzerland potentially could have been with enemy invasion. There is opportunity to explore 3km of underground caverns filled with stalactites and stalagmites in the Grottes de Vallorbe, just below the summit of Dent de Vaulion, at the start of Stage 11, near the town of Vallorbe.
Stage 11 begins with a long ascent from Vallorbe, to the summit of Dent de Vaulion (1483m). The trail travels from town, into farmland, alpine meadows and forest, before reaching the exposed and rocky outcrop of the summit. The Jurapark, a nature park that sits below the summit of Dent de Vaulion, is home to wolves and bears that have either been rescued or taken out of captivity. It lies just off route but is easily accessed along the footpaths in the area. From the summit, two options for descent are available: a narrow forest path to the car park Pétra Félix, which continues on to Stage 12, or an excursion to the small town of Le Pont. The settlement is situated on the shorefront of the highest mountain lake of the Jura, Lac du Joux, which is famed for its Vacherin Mont d’Or cheese museum and yellow gentian liqueur distillery. Campsites can be found around the lake, with the opportunity to also hire sailing boats or mountain bikes to circumnavigate the 10km2 lake. The Vaudois Jura Park extends throughout the region from Stage 11 and the Dents de Vaulion to La Dôle in Stage 14, providing a protected area for wildlife.
View over Lac du Joux and Dent de Vaulion (Stages 12 and 13)
The final stages provide some of the best scenery of the entire Jura Crest Trail. The highest peak of the entire Jura mountain range, Mont Tendre (1679m), can be found in Stage 12 between Col du Mollendruz and Col du Marchairuz. A prominent triangulation point can be found at the summit, leaving 360-degree panoramic views including views of the route ahead, along the rolling elevated plateau of the ‘Balcon du Alpes’. The plateau from this stage to Nyon is interspersed with three high mountain passes connecting Lake Geneva with Lac du Joux through public transport such as Post Buses and the famous Little Red Train at Saint-Cergue.
Stage 13 continues along the plateau and passes the high point of Crêt de la Neuve (1495m) where access to an underground glacier can be located 1.5km east of the trail at Glacière de Saint-George. The Jura is famed for its dairy products, such as cheeses like gruyere, alpage and Vacherin Mont d’Or, and after going through rolling alpine meadows the route passes the legendary local cheese farm, Fromageriue des Fruitières de Nyon where you can sample regional produce. Saint-Cergue, a quintessential mountain village, is located at the end of Stage 13 providing extensive transportation links, a variety of accommodation and amenities, as well as its own ski resort.
Stage 14 begins with a gentle ascent through alpine pastures before reaching the spectacular geological formation of La Dôle (1677m) via a steep cliff face. The ‘golf-ball’ summit, as it is known locally, hosts several air traffic antennas, alongside the top of a ski run that descends into France. The final section of Stage 14 descends from the mountainous environment, into forest, farmland and vineyards, before reaching the final destination, Nyon. The Canton Vaud is famed for its production of white wines, alongside filet de perche, a fish speciality found in restaurants near the lake. With plentiful amenities, museums, castles and chateaus, alongside the inviting Lake Geneva in the summer months, Nyon provides the ultimate concluding location for a long-distance trail.
Other long-distance paths in Switzerland
Switzerland has a long-standing history with hiking paths, with the Jura Crest Trail (route 5) forming one of seven such well-established paths through the country. The other national routes are the Via Alpina (390km, route 1), the Trans Swiss Trail (500km, route 2), the Alpine Panorama Trail (520km, route 3), the Via Jacobi (445km, route 4), the Alpine Passes Trail (610km, route 6) and the Via Gottardo (320km, route 7).
Popular throughout Europe, the internationally recognised 12 ‘E-paths’ link numerous countries across the continent, with the E4 following 239km of the Jura Crest Trail, from Saint-Cergue to Dielsdorf. The E4 traces a 12,000km path linking Tarifa in Spain with Larnaca in Cyprus to provide the longest path in Europe. The European long-distance paths are identified by a blue shield encircled by yellow stars with a letter ‘E’ and the number of the trail in the centre.
Geology of the Jura mountains
The Jura mountains are part of the Alpine foreland providing some of the oldest rocks in the Alps. The Jura began its development in the Jurassic period of the Mesozoic era, around 152 million years ago, when significant portions of Europe were covered by the Tethys Sea. Sediments became compressed on the ocean floor, forming rock: the abundant tropical marine life and fauna of this Mesozoic ocean can still be witnessed today in the fossil-rich limestone of the Jura. In fact, it was in the Jura that rocks of this age – ‘Jura limestone’, named by the famous geologist, Alexander von Humboldt – were first studied.
The summit of Chasseral (Stage 6)
The Cenozoic Era, over the past 65 million years, was when the main deformational thrust took place in the Jura. The oceanic floor was pushed upwards as tectonic plates collided, forming mountains. Several major thrusts and Alpine uplifts occurred to form the first Jura mountain around 35 million years ago.