Surfing Hawaii. Leonard Lueras
and they push the limits in this event for a first place check of fifty grand, one of the highest prize purses around. Eddie Aikau was a well-known Hawaiian waterman who took off fearlessly on some of the biggest waves at Waimea during his time. He was also a respected lifeguard on the North Shore, but was tragically lost at sea in 1978 while attempting to swim to shore for help while serving on the crew of an experimental ancient Hawaiian sailing canoe named the Hokulea. The Hokulea had been damaged and was threatening to go under in rough seas. Eddie's body was never recovered. When the waves are huge and local surfers are scared, they will often look at each other and say, hopefully, that if he were still here, well, "Eddie would go."
The surf coming in from Wai-mea Bay to Haleiwa is a considerable downshift from the heaving action around Sunset Beach. The waves are still excellent, however, and reek of 100 percent pure North Shore juice. For those looking for a fun and not-too-threatening peak to surf, Leftovers is a good option. The lefts coming in here are nice and wally, providing ample space to boogie on. The odd tube will make a guest appearance at times.
Rightovers are the rights that roll off just up from the lefts; they get fun and give you sufficient room to play. Take heed of the shallow inside that pops up on lower tides. It sounds good, but take into consideration that a boogeyboarder once disappeared from this lineup during an early session, and all that was recovered later was his sponge with a good-sized shark bite taken out of it. A much-visited memorial to him was put up next to the bushes near the checkout spot here.
Acrose the narrow channel from Leftovers lies Alligator Rock. Gator's is a sometimes happening right and short left that stands up and does its thing before going impotent in the channel. Easily checked from the beach, or from out at leftovers.
Before arriving at the wide-open view of Laniakea, you'll come to another open beach clearly visible from the road. There are two waves here—a left and a right— which break towards each other, and on small to medium size swell days, they can send any sane surfer mad in trying to decide which way to go. A channel in the center of the two separates the movement on both sides and provides a safe paddle-out spot. The rights are known to the world as Chun's Reef, and are some of the easiest and fun waves to ride. A myriad of peaks makes up Chun's, and they all turn off and on, depending on local swell, tide and surf-god conditions. The peak by the channel offers a short, fun ride before withering away into the deep water. The outside peak can be the best bet, with good rides pushing all the way through to the other side, baby. Chun's features a fine performance-tuned wall that is great for any maneuver you may have lingering in your mind. It all sounds good, except when you see the packed water crew that is sure to be there on any respectable day. The odd left is up for grabs, and it's a good way to sneak one away from the pack. A shower is strategically placed on the beach for those wishing to rid their body of saltwater essence. It is regularly put to use, in appreciation of its donor. Rick "Crazy Shirts" Ralston.
Looping lines at Lani's. It looks majestic, but now, if you could only snag one for yourself . . . Photo: Jeff Devine
The lefts on the opposite side are also great places to hunt for quality breakers. Jock Sutherland, one of the original surfers who defined hotdogging from the late '60s into the early '70s, was one of the first to put in time at this reef, which isn't much of a surprise given that he grew up in a house right on the beach. Along with Jeff Hakman and some of his other neighbors, Jock was a member of the Chun's Reef Surfing Society, an informal and little-known group of North Shore surfers who made up what was probably the NS's first surfing club. Unable to persuade his buddies to paddle out with him because they wussed-out at the thought of having to deal with the gnarly rocks protruding on the inside (remember those were preleggie days, mate), Jock would constantly solo it and reap all the spoils, That's the local tale behind the naming of Jocko's, which also goes by the name Jock's Reef.
The wave itself is a winding left that can churn out quite a mean barrel on its day Lipsmacking areas are abundant, and should be taken advantage of whenever possible. When good, Jocko's can be the ultimate and dreamy left. Be wary of the aforementioned rocks that line the inside. They have a weird habit of making themselves known when one is caught in their vicinity while ducking white water. Crowds are once again a pesky factor at this surf spot.
One of the more sought after rights in The Country is Laniakea. When on, Lani's exhibits a long and roping ride that can challenge the hardest of the hardcore. An inside bowl near the channel is a great place to hook into wedging wonders, while the outside peak can hand out long on-down-the-line speed tracks leading to the inside. Under 6 feet, Lani's remains playful and can be enjoyed by the majority of surfers on hand. The story changes when the sets start rumbling at 8 feet and up. Heavy lines of waves possess plenty of push-start and are best attempted by more advanced waveriders. Big barrels followed by a rushing wall of waves twist down a long right line, and on good swells from the north, these walls can thread their way all the way across the reef, causing jelly legs at the finish line.
Swells incoming from the west, meanwhile, make for fast-dumping sections and are best passed up for a different spot. Lefts occasionally roll off the outside peak, but hold out the threat of being caught inside. Getting snared by a freak set on a sizey day means taking serious poundings that may pose the specter of seeing yourself paddle all the way back out from the channel again. You can tell if the surf's happening without even looking at the water by applying the surfer's rule of counting the number of cars in the parking lot. If the lot is empty, it's a good sign that the surf probably stinks.
Is this view enticing enough to inspire the long paddle out? We think so. Welcome to a place called Avalanche. Photo: Mana
The peak between Laniakea and Jocko's, called Holton's, can dish up some tasty rights. Nice drops followed by a big wall are on the menu and can satisfy any surfer's appetite for adrenaline on bigger, holding days. It is easily checked from the Lani's carpark.
To the left of Lani's and about a mile out to sea is Himalayas, a mountainous peak that holds monster swells. Not a place for surfing alone, so if you feel like going for it, take at least one buddy (if not several) and a big board. Rarely surfed due to the beastly nature of the place. Towing-in is usually a better riding strategy.
When the buoys hit the 20 feet/20 second mark and most of the North Shore is macking and closing out, your list of rideable wave venues starts to really get limited. You could go for it at a maxing outside reef Pipeline or Sunset if they are holding up, or go for the guts and glory of Waimea. If the big stuff isn't on your agenda, then give Puaena Point a look-see. There are actually two spots to surf that show their stuff when the swell starts getting serious. The first place of refuge is the bowly peak at the edge of the channel that forms a fast-breaking right driving into the deep water. Wave sizes here are usually only a fraction of the surrounding swell. You can tell if it's going off or not by looking at it from the beach. If it looks good from land, it's probably better in the water.
For those looking for more of an adrenaline boost, the outside is the call. Thick long rights come in from way out the back, and if you should snag a good one, it will take you for a lengthy shoot to the inside. Beware of fast wide ones that will work you and leave you helpless to the brutality of the rest of the set. Some of the size of the swell is reserved for this outside break, and it can get big. Keep your eyes peeled for those notorious sneaker sets.
Haleiwa always looks way easier from the beach than it actually is. Add the racing rip currents, shifty peaks, clean-up sets and anxious locals and it very suddenly becomes much less alluring. Photo: Jeff Divine
Homely Haleiwa
Haleiwa could possiby be one of the trickiest waves to surf on the North Shore. From the beach, the nicely-shaped rights are deceptively inviting, but from the water it's a whole different story. A super-solid rip that could tire out a shark runs through the break, causing a constant paddling to keep up with it and to maintain your position. The waves themselves tend to section off, crushing those waveriders who have the tenacity to try