50 Best Short Hikes: San Diego. Jerry Schad
the placid north shoreline of Batiquitos Lagoon, white flecks of shell glint in the sunlight where the land begins to rise. Centuries ago, American Indians of this region gathered and consumed shellfish here. As generations of natives discarded the shell remains over thousands of years, their middens (refuse piles) grew in size and extent. Keep a sharp eye out, and you may see evidence of those middens today.
The Batiquitos Lagoon of prehistoric and early historic times lived up to its lagoon designation. Seawater surged in and out on the tides, alternately bathing and uncovering the low-lying, salt-tolerant vegetation, referred to as salt marsh habitat, an ecosystem of salt-tolerant vegetation increasingly threatened by coastal development throughout Southern California. In the 20th century, however, vast loads of soil loosened by agricultural activity and urban development on the lagoon’s watersheds were flushed downstream during winter floods. Much of this silt dropped out of suspension near the lagoon’s mouth, forming a plug that interfered with normal tidal flows. As a result, Batiquitos Lagoon lost its permanent connection to the ocean and became a stagnating, freshwater lake.
In a giant leap backward, or forward as the case may be, a massive dredging and lagoon restoration project in the 1990s converted the body of water back into a functioning estuary. Millions of cubic yards of sand were dredged from the lagoon’s bottom and entrance channel and deposited on nearby beaches or piled up along the lagoon shoreline to provide nesting sites for least terns and western snowy plovers.
Two hikers on Batiquitos Lagoon Trail
Today, you may meander along a delightful trail on the restored lagoon’s north shoreline. For the best bird-watching results, arrive here during early morning or late afternoon, when resident shorebirds and migrating visitors are most active. This also makes a good spot to cool off during one of San Diego’s rare summer or autumn heat waves, when temperatures can reach into the 90s.
THE ROUTE
Starting from the Gabbiano Lane trailhead, head eastward on the main trail. The nearly level pathway curls along the lagoon’s north shore, where colorful interpretive panels provide informative background on local flora and fauna. Traffic noise from I-5, annoying at first, fades as you continue east and pass several small eucalyptus coppices. An iron fence separates a perfectly manicured golf course and upscale housing on your left from the wild assortment of native sage scrub vegetation and nonnative palms, eucalyptus, mustard, and fennel on the shoreline strip you’re walking through. (Along the route four side trails lead north to small parking lots along Batiquitos Drive.)
At a point 1.4 miles from the start, the shoreline trail pulls left and goes under dense eucalyptus foliage. This is a fine resting or picnic spot, and also a good place to turn around and return to the trailhead.
TO THE TRAILHEAD
GPS Coordinates: N33º 5.617' W117º 18.077'
Exit I-5 at Poinsettia Lane (Exit 45) in Carlsbad. Proceed east on Poinsettia 0.3 mile, and turn right on Batiquitos Drive. Continue 0.5 mile, and turn right on Gabbiano Lane, which leads directly to the Batiquitos Lagoon parking lot, nature center, and trailhead.
4 Swami’s Beach
Trailhead Location: On Coast Highway 101, just south of downtown Encinitas
Trail Use: Hiking, running, and wading in the surf
Distance & Configuration: 2.9-mile out-and-back
Elevation Range: From sea level to 100' at clifftop
Facilities: Public restrooms and picnic tables at Swami’s Park; plenty of beach-flavored eateries on Coast Highway 101, north of K Street
Highlights: Sheer cliffs and well-formed waves; ideal for surfing and beachcombing
DESCRIPTION
The North County beach vibe finds its best expression in coastal Encinitas, where laid-back surfing and New Age cultures blend. Right below the high perch of the Asian-styled Self-Realization Fellowship (SRF) retreat, called Swami’s in deference to founder Paramahansa Yogananda, lies one of San Diego County’s most popular surfing spots. Just take it from the Beach Boys, who referred to Swami’s in their 1960s song “Surfin’ USA.” On most days throughout the year, you can view surfers in action or bobbing astride their boards just outside the breakers awaiting the next perfect wave. Bottlenose dolphins occasionally show up too, seemingly playing in the surf and sometimes even catching their own rides. Birds of many varieties—including gulls, terns, and shorebirds large and small, along with the ever-entertaining peeps (small sandpipers)—are likely to be present during a Swami’s walk.
Our walk down the beach from Swami’s Park, overlooking Swami’s Beach, is flat and easy, with no more than a few cobbles here and there to trip you up. If you want, on the way down the beach or on the way back, you can ratchet up the exercise by climbing up and down several staircases. The staircases lead to the clifftop campgrounds of San Elijo State Beach. These sideways diversions involve little added horizontal distance and plenty of elevation gain and loss if you’re game for it.
THE ROUTE
You begin the beach journey at pint-size Swami’s Park. From the edge of the cliff, descend the 145 steep steps leading down the sheer slope to Swami’s Beach, which is rocky to the north and sandy to the south. Simply head south on the wide or narrow (depending on the tide level) strip of sand that soon becomes a part of San Elijo State Beach. During extreme low-tide episodes in winter, the water level recedes 50–75 yards from the base of the sea bluffs, exposing sandstone reefs rich in marine life. This is less likely to happen in summer or fall because gentle wave action in those seasons tends to deposit a thicker layer of sand on the beach.
Even though the busy Coast Highway 101 lies atop the bluffs, you can’t see it. The summertime sensual experience at the water’s edge includes the soothing sound of the pounding surf, an ever-steady breeze out of the west caressing your skin, the spicy scent of salt-tinged air, and, of course, sunshine in variable amounts—depending on the cloud cover. (Take off your hiking shoes or sandals and let the foamy water lap around your feet and ankles to enhance this experience.)
As you proceed south, you will pass six separate stairways ascending the bluffs. Likely you’ll spot some local runners scooting up and down—or down and up—these stairs for interval training. Some 1.4 miles into the beach walk, you reach the San Elijo Lagoon inlet, where tidal water flows in and out across the beach. This is a good spot to turn around and head back north. Consider checking out the clifftop campsites accessible from each of the six staircases leading up from the beach. Public restrooms are also available here.
Big board dreamin’ at San Elijo State Beach
Before you return to your car, or perhaps at another time, consider visiting the SRF Meditation Gardens, overlooking the ocean at the west end of K Street (215 W. K St.). This serene spot is open to the public Tuesday–Saturday, 9 a.m.–5 p.m., and Sunday, 11 a.m.–5 p.m. There is no charge. (See encinitastemple.org.)
TO THE TRAILHEAD
GPS Coordinates: N33º 2.079' W117º 17.521'
Exit I-5 at Encinitas Boulevard (Exit 42). Go west to South Coast Highway 101, make a left, and travel south past lettered streets (C, D, E, and so on) for 0.9 mile to K Street on the right. Find a curbside parking space on K Street, on the west side of 101, or just about anywhere within a reasonable distance of K Street. Parking along Third Street near J Street is typically a good option for busy times. If you’re lucky (fat chance in the summer), you might find a parking space in the small lot at Swami’s Park, which is on 101, one long block south of K Street.