outdoor pool; sun terrace; library; babysitting; free Wi-Fi.
Moderate
Casa Baltazar This classy bed-and-breakfast is a secret hideaway in the heart of the city. It’s located in a discreet townhouse owned by the same family since 1882. They also own the Confeitaria Nacional, Lisbon’s oldest (and arguably best) pastry shop, which guarantees a treat at breakfast time. Rooms blend modern art with antique furnishings. The best have private terraces with hot tubs and panoramic views over the Baixa and St. George’s Castle. It’s a 2-minute walk from Rossio square or the Carmo ruins. There’s a secret garden with lawn, loungers, and pool. Inside, a cozy lounge comes with honesty bar, art books, and quirky ceramics.
Casa do Barão The “Baron’s House,” an aristocratic residence built after the 1755 earthquake, is now a friendly, family-run bed-and-breakfast, a haven in a quiet side street just off the bustle of Chiado. Rooms are spacious and white-painted with soft drapes, period prints, and marble bathrooms. Some are decorated with Bordallo Pinheiro ceramics. The top suites and rooms have private terraces and spectacular views. There’s a courtyard pool, and you can breakfast in a secret garden filled with tropical vegetation. Complimentary port and muscatel wines await in the library.
Rua da Emenda, 84. www.casadobarao.com. 96/794-41-43. 12 units. 105€–290€ doubles; 260€–390€ suites. Tram: 28. Public parking nearby. Adults only. Amenities: Bar; outdoor swimming pool, garden; free Wi-Fi.
Hotel do Chiado Occupying the two upper floors of a building restored by Pritzker Prize–winning Álvaro Siza Vieira after fire ravaged many of the Chiado’s historic stores in 1988, Hotel do Chiado has a hard-to-beat location. Top-floor rooms have private lawns offering amazing views over the city and river. You can also admire the vista over cocktails on the terrace of the rooftop bar amid blooming bougainvillea and wildflowers. Rooms are comfortably sized and furnished in modern-classic style with sober natural tones, and they’re just an elevator ride from the designer stores and centuries-old shops below.
Rua Nova do Almada, 114. www.hoteldochiado.pt. 21/325-61-00. 39 units. 119€–353€ double. Parking 12€ daily, reservation required. Metro: Baixa-Chiado. Amenities: Bar; sun terrace; free Wi-Fi.
International Design Hotel From the floor-to-ceiling windows of the bar or the private balconies in suites and superior rooms, guests enjoy unique views over Rossio square, Lisbon’s favorite meeting spot for centuries. Opened in the 1920s, the hotel received a total makeover in 2009. The exterior features creamy columns, lilac walls, and intricate wrought-iron railings. Inside it’s hyper-hip, with modern art and colorful design features. Rooms are decorated according to Pop, Tribal, Urban, or Zen themes. The second-floor Bastardo restaurant is a favorite for Lisbon trendsetters.
LX Boutique Hotel Once the emblematic Hotel Braganza, a hang-out for Lisbon’s 19th-century literary set: it features prominently in José Saramago’s novel The Year of the Death of Ricardo Reis. Reborn in 2010 as this cool boutique hotel, the LX maintains a historic ambience behind the sky-blue exterior. Each floor is themed—one is dedicated to poet Fernando Pessoa, another to fado music, with rooms featuring photos of guitars and singers. Interiors have bold colors, stripes, and floral prints. Standard rooms are rather small, but gain in size, light, and river views as you get higher up. The ground floor has a restaurant renowned for sushi, although for breakfast it serves goodies from the nearby Tartine bakery. For better or worse, the hotel is smack in the middle of Lisbon’s nightlife action.
The Independente This cool operator combines a hip hostel offering bargain bunks with elegantly bohemian rooms and suites. The hostel and four suites are set in the artfully decorated Belle Époque former home of the Swiss ambassador; 18 more suites fill in the palace next door. The location is hard to beat, overlooking one of the best panoramic views, on the edge of Bairro Alto nightlife and the chic shopping zones of Príncipe Real and Chiado. In mixed and single-gender dorms for 6, 9, or 12, furniture is Nordic minimal, the cotton sheets crisp and clean. There’s a spacious kitchen and a light-filled lounge hosting movie nights and occasional live music. Separately, they offer private rooms and suites offering a taste of offbeat luxury. There are two excellent restaurants on site, including The Insolito on the roof. The group has recently opened an offshoot, The Indy, in the fast upcoming Intendente quarter.
Rua S. Pedro de Alcântara 81. www.theindependente.pt. 21/346-13-81. 33 units. 94€–234€ double; 10€–34€ dorm bunks. Tram 24. Amenities: Bar; 2 restaurants; free Wi-Fi.
My Story Tejo The hotel reception greets guests with a funky mix of bare brick and contemporary wood and glass. This youthful hotel is just a short walk from Rossio. It was made by combining two smaller hotels in a building that contains the remains of a Roman wall and Pombaline arches. Rooms are simple but comfortable with modern pine furniture, soft-wool blankets, and white cotton sheets. They are a bit on the small side (taller guests should take care if they take an attic room) but many have high windows and balconies facing the bustling street, and some have castle views.
Rua dos Condes de Monsanto, 2. www.mystoryhotels.com. 21-886-6182. 130 units. Doubles: 87€–254€. Metro: Rossio. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; free Wi-Fi.
Sunset Destination Hostel Downtown accommodation with a riverside rooftop pool for less than 20€ a night? Sounds impossible? Well if you don’t mind bunking down in a dorm, it’s perfectly feasible here. One of Lisbon’s premium hostels is perfectly located for exploring downtown, hitting the nightlight hotspots, and escaping to the beach. It’s located upstairs from the Cais do Sodré station, where trains depart along the coast to Cascais. There are
