Praia da Marinha: Coves of pale sand nestled beneath honeycomb cliffs, near the resort of Carvoeiro, this is one of the most iconic Algarve beaches. In summer, you won’t have it to yourself, but its distance from the main resorts means it does not get as crowded as most along this stretch of coast. See p. 235.
Comporta: A endless curve of platinum-blond sand in a bay of sapphire blue water. It’s achingly beautiful, with the Arrábida hills in the distance. With the shabby-chic village of Comporta on the other side of the dunes, this is the most fashionable spot on the coast. Be careful you don’t bump into Madonna or Maria Sharapova as you head from the seafood desk to the water, and make sure you’re inside before mosquito time around sunset. See p. 190.
Guincho: In the lee of Europe’s westernmost point at Capo da Roca, this broad expanse of sand is the most dramatic of the beaches in the Cascais-Sintra area west of Lisbon. Its exposure to Atlantic breezes whipping around the cape means that except on rare calm days, it’s better for surfers and wind sports rather than laying out on the sand. But the views are dramatic, and there are excellent restaurants along the coast road. See p. 150.
Supertubos: Portugal’s surfer beach par excellence. Although the waves here are not as big as the record-breaking rollers up the coast in Nazaré, this strand, just south of the fishing town of Peniche, is renowned for the regularity of its perfect tubular waves crashing on to the soft sand. See p. 204.
Quiaios: Look north from the Serra da Boa Viagem hills above the resort of Figueira da Foz and Quiaios beach stretches as far as you can see—an endless strip of sand backed by dunes and pine forest. There’s a small village at the southern end, and beyond that, solitude. Care can be needed with riptides; check with the lifeguard. See p. 310.
Moledo: Portugal’s northernmost beach has long been a favorite for the in-crowd from Porto. A vast sandy expanse, it curves down from the River Minho that forms the border with Spain. It is overlooked by the conical outline of Mount Santa Tecla over the frontier and a 15th-century fort on a small offshore island. As with other northern beaches, the water can be cold, the wind fresh, and the mornings shrouded in mist, but there is no denying the wild beauty of the location. See p. 401.
Portugal’s best Hotels
Belmond Reid’s Palace (Funchal): The grand old lady of Madeira hotels was built in 1890s and was once the favored retreat of Sir Winston Churchill. Tea and scones are still served on the terrace at 5pm as a reminder of the time when the British upper set wintered here, but Reid’s has managed to shed a one-time fusty image without losing any of its period charm or superlative service standards. It’s wonderfully located amid clifftop gardens overlooking the Atlantic. See p. 430.
Dá Licença (Estremoz): Two guys from the Parisian antique and fashion world have transformed an Alentejo farmstead into a work of art. Each of the enormous, light-filled suites and rooms is decorated with great style using locally mined marble and unique pieces from their world-class collection of art nouveau furniture and design. There are private pools hewn from marble and views, citrus groves and thousands of olive trees and the opportunity to take dinner in art-themed private dining rooms. See p. 282.
Le Monumental Palace (Porto):This long derelict 1920s palace has been rescued by French investors who have restored its Jazz Age glamor. It blends Belle Epoque, Art Nouveau, and Art Deco styles with sensitive modern touches. The pavement-level cafe is again a city social hub; rooms are “grand hotel” elegant, and the deluxe spa ensures premium pampering on the main boulevard of Portugal’s second city. See p. 348.
Palácio de Seteais (Sintra): The Dutch ambassador owned one of the most romantic palaces in Portugal, built in the 1780s on a forested hillside in Sintra. They say the name came later: “Sete ais” translates as “seven sighs,” apparently uttered by Portuguese nobles forced to sign a humiliating treaty here after an 1807 defeat by Napoleon’s invading armies. Any sighing you’re likely to do today will be from pleasure—at the views, the lavish gardens, the gloriously restored neoclassical building, and the chance to plunge into the lifestyle of the old-world aristocracy. See p. 166.
Pousada Palacio de Estoi (Faro): Our pick from the Pousada chain of historic inns was built in the 1780s as a pleasure place for a viscount’s palace. Its rococo domes and towers are painted in raspberry and lemon shades overlooking gardens filled with palms, fountains, and rows of statues. The central salon is a downsized version of the Versailles’ Hall of Mirrors. In contrast, guestrooms are in the new wing built along minimalist-but-comfy lines by an award-winning architect. See p. 224.
Rio do Prado (Óbidos): On the road from the white town of Óbidos to pristine west-coast beaches is this friendly eco-chic resort formed by concrete cubicles that blend into the grass. It might not sound tempting, but the bungalows are intriguingly crafted to allow in sunlight and decorated with sustainable good taste, with private patios, fireplaces inside and out, and theatrical stand-alone tubs. The garden is a delight, and the property’s organic herb and vegetable plot supplies the restaurant. See p. 198.
Six Senses Douro Valley (Lamego): Probably the most pampering you can get at any one place, this was the first European resort with the sensory overload approach of Asian luxury specialist Six Senses. It has acres of land among the Douro’s riverside vineyards, a match of award-winning contemporary design with the charm of the original 19th-century mansion, great restaurants, and a superlative spa. See p. 375.
The Independente (Lisbon): Lisbon has a reputation for some of the world’s hippest hostels, and this is one of the best: at the heart of the action in the Bairro Alto nightlife zone and with great views over the city. It has basic dorm bunks for as little as 10€ including breakfast—and this in a palatial, early-20th-century residence originally built for the Swiss ambassador! A couple of cool restaurants are in the building along with a rooftop bar. There are also some charming private suites, for those who can afford to pay for privacy. See p. 79.
Verride Palácio Santa Catarina (Lisbon): An 18th-century palace restored and renovated as one of the capital’s most luxurious. You’ll gape at marble arches, panels of antique tiles,
