The Sierras of Extremadura. Gisela Radant Wood

The Sierras of Extremadura - Gisela Radant Wood


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of San Martín until just before the signpost on the right indicating Navafrías and Portugal. Cross the road. On the right, in the bushes and fallen in recent times, is a signpost for Pozo de las Nieves (Well of Snows) 2.8km.

      Go through an entrance indicated by two impressive gateposts and cross a cattle grid. Enter the pine wood, turn right and follow the rough, wide track going slightly uphill. The track makes the first of several zig-zags by bending sharply left. After a few meters go through a low swing barrier which normally stands open.

      Reach a T-junction and follow the main track as it goes around to the right. (To the left is where the return rejoins the track.) The track zig-zags, becomes rougher and narrower and ascends. The zig-zags stop as the track goes straight ahead and gets much steeper. Continue to ascend as the track becomes narrower and enters a deeper part of the woods. Go straight over a small round clearing and ascend a hillock. The path then makes a decisive bend to the left. Ahead is a view of the sierra slope covered in bushes with granite outcrops. Behind are views of Salamanca province.

      Ignore a wide junction on the left and follow the track as it bears right. On the horizon up ahead and to the left is a line of high rocky outcrops, and to the left of these are tall pine trees that end abruptly: this is the site of the Well of Snows. The track continues to ascend and becomes very rocky, and you come to a lone pine tree on the left. Just after this are groups of cairns; this is where the walk leaves the track. At least eight cairns are visible from the track.

      Turn to face the cairns. Continue the walk by going from cairn to cairn: from each one you should be able to see the next, and mostly the next two. Keep as much as possible to the old granite-paved footpath that is visible between the flowering bushes. The going is up and the cairns are very regularly spaced, mainly balanced on large granite boulders so they are visible above the bushes. Keep going up, following both path and cairns.

      Come out at a more open area and the cairns are ahead and left. The path goes between tall pine trees. Looking left, you can see both the path and the cairns. It’s quite steep now with large boulders to negotiate. Tall pines grow in clumps of twos and threes but the little path continues.

      Follow path and cairns to the left and below a rocky outcrop and trees. Walk up to the trees; the wooden fence around the Well of Snows, nestling in the trees, is already visible. The path arrives at the back of the well, through a gap in a low wall with cairns on either side. Turn left to reach the information board (Spanish only).

      THE WELL OF SNOWS

      Before the invention of the refrigerator, the collection, storage and sale of snow was an important source of revenue. In winter, local people would climb the mountain ranges and roll the snow into balls of ice; they would put an oak branch through the ball, allow it to freeze overnight and then carry the ball over their shoulders down the mountains to a specially built ‘well of snows’ (pozo de las nieves). The balls were stored in the well, tamped down into disc shapes and every few metres were covered with straw. In the summer months the ice was cut, wrapped and transported all over the region for the preservation of food and the chilling of drinks.

      From the well, continue all the way around to the right and look ahead on a small footpath. There is a metal gate in a fence; go through and follow the small granite markers to the left – not the right – to climb towards the summit. (At one point there is a junction on the left but this is where the return from the summit rejoins the path.) Ascend in zig-zags on the footpath guided by the markers. Near the top, go through a second metal gate, turn right and explore the summit area where there is a geodesic marker. The views looking south are of Hoyos, and to the left can be seen Pico Jañona (Walk 3) and the Torre de Almenara (Walk 4).

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      Pause to admire the view to the south of Pico Jálama summit

      Retrace your steps through the gate to reach the junction. Turn right and follow the footpath as it descends in a fairly straight direction. Pass through a fence where it is tied up to allow access (this is marked by a cairn). The path goes through a narrow gully with bushes and large rocks on either side, occasionally nearing a fence over on the right. Continue downwards past boulders with cairns on them – although the path is easily defined.

      Reach a fire-watch tower on the right. The footpath ends and a series of zig-zags on a well-made wide track begins. At the end of the first descent, just before the track zigs to the right, there is a spring on the left. Ahead is a fine view of the Sierra de Eljas.

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      On the descent path with the Sierra de Eljas beyond

      Continue the descent, ignoring any junctions. Enter the pine wood once more, passing a fire break on the left and an open area on the right. The track bears left and reaches a Y-junction; go right and down. Pass back through the low metal barrier to reach the cattle grid and gateposts. Cross over, turn right to cross the road and arrive back at the picnic area.

      Puerto de Castilla and Pico Jañona

Start/Finish Plaza de la Constitución, Gata
Distance 16km
Ascent/Descent 800m
Time 6hrs
Terrain Village streets, granite cobbled tracks, dirt tracks, rough footpaths
Max altitude 1353m
Map IGN 573 Gata 1:50,000
Refreshments Good range of restaurants and cafés in Gata
Access From Hoyos or Villasbuenas de Gata on the EX-205, turn at the junction for Ciudad Rodrigo. After a few metres turn right at the sign for Gata on the CC-6.1.
Parking On the side of the CC-6.1 near the Ermita del Humilladero
Waymarks Signposts, white and yellow flashes, cairns, low granite markers
Spring water Numerous
Note There is little shade on the tracks; very hot days should be avoided. There may be cows grazing near the water pool below Pico Jañona but they are used to people. Do not walk with dogs.

      A glorious ramble over a pretty part of the Sierra de Gata. The walk goes relentlessly upwards for the first 6km but the ancient granite cobbled track passes many points of interest. There are granite crosses, springs of water, the ruins of a hydroelectric system, the Hermitage of San Blas and unfolding views.

      The easy walk on the dirt track from the Puerto de Castilla to Pico Jañona passes through open areas swept with thousands of flowering bushes and views every step of the way. There is a site of archaeological interest, granite outcrops, birds of prey overhead and the view from Pico Jañona to come. Once the track rounds the head of the valley there are views towards the hermitage and down to the valley.

      The final part of the walk is a delightful zig-zag path, guided by cairns, down the wild sierra side through flowering bushes, copses of trees and granite outcrops. Altogether a stunning experience.

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      Walk back to the Ermita del Humilladero on the left and take the street opposite, Calle del Humilladero. Keep on that street to reach the side of the church. Turn right at the sign for the square and then turn left to walk into the square.

      Face the town hall in the Plaza de la Constitución. Walk around


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