Workshop Projects. Jeff Jacobson
sides for the slides. Test your setup with scrap, using three pieces to represent the three drawer sizes, and make any minor adjustments needed to ensure that the drawers will slide properly. After milling, test fit the sides in the case to be sure they move easily on the slides.
The Drawer Fronts and Door
I cut the drawer fronts and the door for my bench from a single wide board, to take advantage of a very attractive grain pattern. You may have to glue up stock for this process. Cut the faces (pieces 46 and 47) to size, and then shape their front edges on the router table with a chamfering bit (see the elevation drawings for dimensions).
You can now return to the door and finish machining it. The grain pattern on the door (piece 26) ran horizontally. To prevent cupping, I plowed three dadoes from top to bottom in its back and glued in three stiffeners (pieces 27). After sanding, I chamfered the door’s front edges to match the look of the drawer faces.
European-style hinges with a ¼" overlay (pieces 28) are completely hidden when the door is closed. Follow the included instructions for mounting these hinges.
On your band saw, shape the walnut toolbox trimmers (pieces 29) to the profile shown in the pattern drawing on page 15, and then sand them smooth. Screw one to the legs at each end of the toolbox top, to stop tools from falling off the shelf. Finally, chamfer the top and bottom edges of the feet, and screw them to the bottoms of the legs.
Finishing Up
Disassemble the entire bench, and sand all surfaces with 120-grit, 180-grit, and finally 220-grit sandpaper. Wipe it down with a tack cloth, and apply four coats of natural Danish oil to the legset and toolbox and an additional couple of coats to the worktop. Sand each coat except the last with 400-grit sandpaper, wiping it clean before and after sanding. When the finish is dry, reassemble the bench, and mount the knobs on the drawers and door.
Install a pair of bench dogs (pieces 18) by using the elevation drawings to locate their holes in the top of the vise jaw. Drill the right-hand hole vertically all the way through the jaw (back up the exit area with some scrap to avoid tearout). Drill the left hole to a depth of 4½", and then use a bit extender or a long twist bit to drill a second hole in the bottom of this boring (see the elevation drawings for dimensions). This hole is for a brass pin that’s actually a door hinge pin, available at most hardware stores. This pin is used as a button to push the top of the bench dog up above the surface of the jaw when needed.
Pop the square dogs into their holes at this time, and then fill the top drawer in the toolbox with all those project plans you’ll need over the next few decades. After all, once people see the great job you did on building your workbench, they’re bound to have all sorts of great ideas that will help you use it!
Quick Tip
Instant Workbench Vise
Most workbenches have more than one vise so the user can work either along an edge or at the end of the bench. If your workbench has only one vise, you can provide a second means of clamping using a length of metal T-track, T-bolts, wing nuts, and a few hand-screw clamps. Rout a dado in your benchtop to recess the T-track, bore a hole through the thickness of the hand-screw clamp, and assemble the parts. Install a second hand screw for holding long work when necessary.
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