Haircutting For Dummies. Jeryl E. Spear
really depends on how much you’re willing to spend, how often you use the scissors, and how serious you are about cutting hair. (I have found that Fromm International,
www.frommpro.com, has the best inexpensive shears for home haircutting on the market. They are sold online and at beauty stores.)
Playing it straight
Straight or stamped scissors are the cheapest type of scissors on the market. They’re stamped out of metal, cookie cutter-style, have little or no hand finishing, and are sold as $2 paper scissors, $5 kitchen scissors, and $12 (or less) haircutting scissors.
Making beveled eggs and blades
Beveled scissors are also referred to as German or European scissors because they originated — and are still produced — in Solingen, Germany. German-style cutlery typically has beveled blades, an old-world design with tapered tips. German-style scissors also have micro-serrated blade edges (a very fine notching) to help grip and cut the hair. They work well for blunt end cuts, but aren’t suitable for more advanced techniques like slide cutting.
The price of German-style scissors typically ranges from $25 to $200. This broad spectrum of costs depends on the number of finishing steps, the quality of the work, the number of deluxe features and, to be honest, the brand name.
Caving in to convex blades
Convex, or Japanese-style, scissors cut like straight razors. The convex blades are hollow ground, meaning that some metal is scooped out of the interior of the cutting blade to create a very sharp edge. Because Japanese-style scissors traditionally offer the smoothest, most effortless cutting experience, they’re the tool of choice for most professional stylists.
Due to their keen cutting surface and meticulous finish, Japanese-style scissors are also the most expensive cutting tools. A decent pair starts at about $80 and quickly escalates to $300 and beyond.
Getting a handle on ergonomics
Ergonomics are a godsend for hairstylists who are at high risk for developing carpal tunnel syndrome. Scissors with opposing handles (side-by-side finger and thumb rings) were taken out of the dark ages several years ago when a variety of ergonomic scissor handles were introduced to the professional beauty industry. These handles — offset, crane, or swivel designs — help to eliminate stress on the thumb and wrist joints and, in some cases, the shoulder as well. These features are important to hairstylists who do multiple haircuts every day. (Figure 2-1 and Figure 2-2b show offset handles; Figure 2-2a shows opposing handles. The latter is acceptable for specialty scissors because they are only used briefly or occasionally when cutting hair.)
For the home haircutter who does an occasional haircut, using ergonomic scissors isn’t necessary. But if you frequently line up your entire family for back-to-back Saturday morning haircuts, you will experience far less joint and overall hand and shoulder fatigue by using ergonomic scissors.
In terms of handle designs, I prefer using offset handles that keep the thumb in a more natural position. Other people prefer a crane-style handle that places the thumb joint in a stress-free position and the wrist straight and horizontal with the blades.
Swivel handles allow the thumb to move freely, with some designs having both thumb and finger swivel rings. I don’t recommend them for home haircutters as they can take you on a wild ride and be downright dangerous in unpracticed hands.
Seeking specialty scissors
Specialty scissor designs are only limited by the tool designer and the stylist’s imagination. They are commonly referred to as chunking, thinning, texturizing, and blending scissors, depending on the design and the number of teeth, and the whims of the manufacturer. Figure 2-2 shows two types of specialty scissors — texturizing scissors and thinning scissors.
© iStockphoto.com/Catalin Plesa (left); Fromm International (right)
FIGURE 2-2: Nothing blurs scissor marks — those pesky lines that show where you’ve cut the hair — faster than specialty scissors.
Although the names of these tools are decidedly fuzzy, one look at their teeth tells you what they can do: Large, wide-spaced teeth create chunky cuts by removing wider snippets of hair. They are generally used to create interesting patterns in the hair, especially in the bang area. Fine, closely spaced teeth create smooth, diffuse cutting lines by removing finer snippets of hair. (Specialty tools cost anywhere from $20 to $300 or more, depending on the quality, design, and the brand name.)
Never use specialty scissors near the scalp unless you want bits and pieces of hair to stand on end.
Frequently comb through the hair to remove loose snippets that tend to obscure how much hair you’ve really removed.
Use a light touch until you’re experienced enough to know what the finished results will be.
Caring for your scissors
Buying the perfect pair of scissors is one thing, but maintaining them is quite another.
Wipe down your scissors after each use with a soft cotton or microfiber cloth.
Put one drop of scissor lubricating oil on the joint of the scissors at the end of each cutting day.
Always protect your scissors against nicks or warping by keeping them safely tucked away in a pouch or case when you aren’t using them.
Avoid cutting hair that’s coated with hair spray, styling aids, or other products that can dull your scissors.
Never cut synthetic hair with your cutting besties; it will dull the blades.
Check your blades periodically to ensure they aren’t too loose or too tight. Loose blades cause the hair to bend