Travels Through North America, During the Years 1825 and 1826. v. 1-2. Bernhard
twenty-three miles distant from Falmouth. I left this place June 14th, at noon, the weather being very warm. The road leads through Penryn, and then inclines to the left towards the ridges, constantly up and down hill, through heaths, where few traces of culture were observed; the houses stand detached, and have a miserable appearance. On the heights, however, we had occasionally a prospect towards the western ridges of Cornwall. Trees are few in number; we observed mines here and there. Thirteen miles from Falmouth lies Helstone, a little mining town of two thousand five hundred inhabitants, containing some neat houses, but miserable pavements. The court-house stands in the middle of the town, under which is the market. On the other side of Helstone we came to a beautiful valley, where we saw trees again, and by means of a stone bridge we passed over Looe, a small stream, which at a short distance empties into the sea. As far as Marazion the region is agreeable; hilly indeed, but better cultivated. We approached the sea on the left; on the right we had the ridges, among which we discovered some neat farms. As we approached Marazion, which lies on a descent towards the sea, we enjoyed the really fine view of Mountbay and of St. Michael’s Mount. In Marazion we stopped at the Star Inn, and immediately took a boat to reach the mountain, which is a short distance from the shore. The rock, which at low water joins the shore, consists of granite, is a mile in circumference at its base, and is two hundred and fifty feet high. At its foot there is a small fishing village of about thirty houses, with a harbour formed by two new piers. By means of very inconvenient steps which are cut out of the rock, we reached an old castle, standing at the highest point, and belonging to the family St. Aubyn. This is the same family, whose chief, Sir John St. Aubyn, owns almost all the houses in Devonport, and a large portion of the ground of the dock-yard. In former times, St. Michael’s Mount was a cloister. Adapted by its isolated situation for a fortress, art has contributed but little to its strength, and added merely a pair of bastions, and platforms, on which a few small cannon belonging to the owner of the mount, are at present standing. It sustained several sieges in former times. We were conducted to a Gothic chapel with ancient, painted window-glasses, after which we examined the castle. In this, however, we found nothing remarkable, except the old refectory of the cloister, called the chevy-chace-room, with strange bas-reliefs, representing ancient hunting scenes. In this hall are very old pieces of furniture; one chair is said to be three hundred, another five hundred years old.
The windows of the castle command a very fine prospect towards Mountbay and its shores, in which Marazion and Penzance, which are three miles distant from each other, appear to very great advantage. Not far from the latter place, the Thetis lay at anchor. I regretted extremely that my time would not allow me to visit my gallant friend, Sir John Phillimore. A steeple rises above the church of the castle, which I, however, did not ascend, being fatigued, and the steps in a neglected state. We rode back to Marazion, which was formerly called Marketzew, and has eleven hundred inhabitants, and passing by Helstone, we arrived about one o’clock at night, much fatigued, at Falmouth. Penryn, to which I made several excursions, contains a row of newly-built, elegant houses, with handsome gardens and a catholic church. The beautiful terrace on which the new houses stand with their gardens, is called the Green Bank, and is a very agreeable promenade.
CHAPTER III
[The Pallas sailed from Falmouth Bay on the 18th of June, and arrived on the 26th of July. During the voyage a midshipman was lost overboard, and the American ship Schuylkill, in distress for water and provisions, was spoken and relieved. The other incidents of the voyage are not sufficiently interesting to need a particular description.
The following is the duke’s account of his landing at Boston: —
It was ten o’clock, on the morning of the 26th of July, when I first placed my foot in America, upon a broad piece of granite! It is impossible to describe what I felt at that instant. Heretofore, but two moments of my life had left a delightful remembrance; the first was, when at seventeen years of age, I received the Cross of the Legion of Honour, after the battle of Wagram – the second, when my son William was born. My landing in America, that country which, from my early youth, had been the object of my warmest wishes, will, throughout life, remain a subject of pleasing recollection!]
CHAPTER IV
On our arrival in Boston we took lodgings at the Exchange Coffee-house, where I received a visit from Mr. Andrew Ritchie, whose acquaintance I made in England two years ago. I was much pleased to see this worthy man again, who eighteen months since married the daughter of Mr. Otis, formerly a senator of the United States and leader of the federal party; both these gentlemen are highly esteemed here. I dined at the inn at two o’clock, according to the custom of the place; my seat was at the head of the table, by the side of the host, Mr. Hamilton. He had served in the last war as a volunteer colonel, and still retained his title. He exhibited much politeness, and indeed I cannot sufficiently praise the politeness of the guests, with many of whom I became acquainted. The dishes were very good, and even had this not been the case I should still have enjoyed them, having so long been without fresh provisions; this was the case with the fruit, which though small and bad, was still agreeable. On account of the excessive heat, which had been greater than at any time during the last twenty years, fruit in general had matured too early. Wine was served up in coolers with ice, and into every glass of beer, a piece of ice was thrown.
Adjoining the large dining room is a parlour and two sitting rooms, where strangers who have nothing to do pass the day. At a sideboard, wine, lemonade, soda water, &c. with ice, may be obtained. Eight newspapers were lying on a large table, all of which had the form of English papers, and were chiefly filled with mercantile and other advertisements. The house itself is arranged much like an English inn. The servants of both colours were civil and attentive. At four o’clock, Mr. Ritchie with his father-in-law, and the son of the latter, lately returned from a tour in Europe, came to show us the city.
There are many elegant stores in Cornhill, one of the principal streets. We saw a new building, intended as a branch of the United States Bank, the front of which is plain, with two Doric columns, each consisting of a single piece of granite, eighteen feet high, and almost five feet in diameter. The first popular assemblies at the commencement of the American revolution, were held in the old court-house. A large hall, in which the aldermen meet, contains a full length portrait of Washington, by Stuart, and also a bust of Adams, father of the present president. The bust is encircled by a wreath of stars. The names of all the citizens who distinguished themselves by great services during the revolution, are engraved on four columns. The beef and vegetable markets are under the court-house; but as this place was justly considered unsuitable for such a purpose, a new market was built not far from the water. The corporation began to fill up a ditch, and erect upon it a long building, the foundation of which is granite, and the three stories of brick, which was sold to the merchants as a warehouse. This sale was made on such favourable terms, that from the profits a new market was built, parallel with this warehouse, entirely of granite. It is five hundred and twenty-five feet long, fifty feet wide, and one story high. On the other side of this market, and parallel with it, a new row of warehouses, similar to the former are building. Mr. Ritchie led us through several wide and elegant streets to his house, one of the largest in Boston, and situated on Beacon-hill, a public promenade. Many frame houses are still to be observed; no new houses can be built of wood. Most of them are of brick; granite, which is found in abundance about twenty miles from Boston, is used frequently for foundations, particularly for those of stores. The mall, as it is called, consists of a large meadow, sparingly planted with trees, and extending down the hill to the water. On the highest part of the hill stands the state-house or capitol, with a large dome, covered with copper. The building is of brick, decorated with a façade of ten columns. These are of wood, and impart to the whole an air of weakness. Mr. Ritchie’s house is furnished with much splendour and taste, and decorated by some paintings which he obtained during his travels. Among these I remarked a very successful copy of Madonna della sedia of Raphael, another Madonna of Sassoferrato, and a scene from the deluge of Poussin. We spent the evening with Mr. Ritchie, and became acquainted with his lady, and also with the widow of General Humphreys, adjutant of General Washington, and formerly ambassador of the United States to Lisbon and Madrid. Mrs. Humphreys is descended from an English family, was born in Lisbon, and must have been very handsome in her youth. Mr. Otis and his son were also present.