Riverford Farm Cook Book: Tales from the Fields, Recipes from the Kitchen. Jane Baxter
pepper and butter. The heart can sometimes be sweet and crunchy enough to use for coleslaw.
All cabbages have a tendency to bolt or run to seed if left in the field too long. For the over-wintered varieties, this tendency is accentuated by the approach of spring. When you cut a cabbage in half, you will sometimes see the stem pushing up and trying to break out. Unfortunately, unlike that of broccoli or cauliflower, this stem or central core tends to be tough and bitter and should be cut out, perhaps for use in a stock.
If you boil brassicas, use plenty of water at a rolling boil, with the lid off to help maintain the colour. I like to boil Savoys and steam the more delicate January King and Hispi. Jane often opts not to put cabbages in water at all, but to cook them briefly in butter.
Asian Coleslaw with Peanuts and Chilli
One of Jane’s favourite dishes is som tam, or green papaya salad, which is from Northern Thailand and a daily staple in that region. She often tries to emulate it with the humble cabbage and carrot for staff meals here at the farm.
Serves 4
1/2 cabbage, finely shredded
3 carrots, coarsely grated
2 apples, grated
1 red pepper, sliced
100g beansprouts (optional)
1 tomato, chopped
2 tablespoons crushed roasted peanuts
For the dressing:
1 garlic clove, crushed
1/2 onion, finely sliced
1 chilli, chopped
1 tablespoon Thai fish sauce
11/2 tablespoons brown sugar
3 tablespoons lemon juice
a dash of sweet chilli sauce
Combine all the dressing ingredients, either in a pestle and mortar or by whisking them together in a bowl. Set aside.
Mix together all the vegetables, toss with the dressing and pile on a serving plate. Sprinkle with the roasted peanuts.
Cabbage with Lentils, Chilli and Coriander
Joyce Molyneux, who used to own the Carved Angel in Dartmouth, recommended to Jane that she include this recipe. It’s perfect as a side dish or a vegetarian main course.
Serves 4
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 chilli, chopped
500g cabbage, preferably Hispi or January King, shredded
juice of 1/2 lemon
1 tablespoon chopped coriander
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the lentils:
100g Puy lentils
2 garlic cloves, peeled
1 tablespoon olive oil
First cook the lentils. Put them in a pan with the garlic and add enough water to cover. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 30 minutes, until tender, topping up the water if necessary. Drain, then season well and mix in the olive oil.
For the cabbage, heat the olive oil in a large saucepan, add the onion, garlic and chilli, then cover and sweat for about 5 minutes, until softened. Add the shredded cabbage and season well. Cook, stirring, over a high heat, until wilted. Stir in the lemon juice, lentils and coriander and adjust the seasoning.
This is based on a recipe from Madhur Jaffrey’s first cookbook. It makes a wonderful accompaniment to curries. Any type of cabbage will do but Savoy is best.
Serves 4
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 tablespoon black mustard seeds
1 dried chilli
1/2 cabbage, thinly sliced
2 carrots, coarsely grated
1 tablespoon caster sugar
juice of 1/2 lemon
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat the oil in a wok and add the mustard seeds and chilli. When the seeds start to pop, add the cabbage and carrots and stir-fry for 5 minutes. Add all the rest of the ingredients and cook for a minute longer. Serve immediately.
We have a number of Eastern Europeans working at the farm and we occasionally try and serve dishes in the staff canteen that will remind them of home. We also once did couscous for Norddine, our sole Moroccan worker, only to discover that he hated our version. Fortunately this stuffed cabbage went down rather better.
Serves 6
1 medium Savoy cabbage
600g sauerkraut
250g minced beef
250g minced pork
50g long grain rice, cooked
1 egg
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
4 smoked streaky bacon rashers, cut into thin strips
2 onions, chopped
3 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tablespoon paprika
a pinch of cayenne pepper
400g can of chopped tomatoes
11/2 teaspoons caraway seeds
200ml water or stock
1 teaspoon cornflour
150ml soured cream
Remove and discard the outer leaves of the cabbage. Cut off the rest of the leaves from the core and blanch them in a large pan of boiling water for 2 minutes. Drain well, refresh in cold water, then drain again. Set aside the 12 largest leaves and chop up the remaining cabbage. Spread half the sauerkraut over the base of an ovenproof dish and cover with the chopped cabbage.
Mix the beef, pork, rice, egg, salt and pepper together in a bowl. Fry the bacon in a saucepan until just beginning to brown, then remove with a slotted spoon. Add 1 onion and the garlic to the pan and cook them in the bacon fat for 5 minutes over a medium heat. Mix the onion and bacon with the meat and rice mixture.
Spread out the 12 reserved cabbage leaves on a board and divide the meat mixture between