Fortnum & Mason: Christmas & Other Winter Feasts. Tom Bowles Parker
happy hiatus where the morning’s sport is discussed and debated, over rich venison stews, shepherd’s pie, steak and kidney pudding, or even local fish and chips. My aim is not particularly true, but in the winter months, there are few places I’d rather be than in some rugged field, be it Dorset, Devon or Durham, with good friends, awaiting the flutter of wings. Far from being some bloodthirsty slaughter for ruddy-faced toffs, proper shooting is as much about conservation as it is about killing. And it goes without saying that every single bird killed is gutted, plucked and sent to the dealer. To be trussed, and sold on to those who crave their winged wonders. So abandon squeamish preconceptions, and embrace game. Start with a taste of partridge, and before you know it, you’ll be craving civet à la royale, and lusting after that woodcock. Ditch the dullard chicken breast, and, to quote a famous advert for American fags, Come to Where the Flavour Is.
This is an old-fashioned recipe, no doubt about that. Not in terms of being stolid and dull, rather thanks to the clarification process. But do persevere, as the end result is a glimmering, topaz-hued broth with the most rich and deep of flavours.
SERVES 4
· 2 leftover grouse carcasses
· 2 litres good-quality chicken stock
· 500g chicken wings
· 1 large glass of brandy
· ½ a star anise
· 1 bay leaf
· a sprig of thyme
· 60g pearl barley, soaked overnight in cold water and drained
· ½ a carrot, diced
· 1 stick of celery, diced
· 1 teaspoon chopped parsley
FOR THE BROTH
· 2 boneless, skinless chicken thighs
· 1 carrot, roughly chopped
· 1 shallot, roughly chopped
· 2 garlic cloves, chopped
· 2 sticks of celery, roughly chopped
· 100g button mushrooms
· 2 medium egg whites
Pick the leftover meat from the grouse carcasses and set aside. Break up the carcasses, then put them into a large saucepan with the chicken stock and leave over a low heat to infuse. Meanwhile, put the chicken wings into a roasting tin and place them in an oven heated to 190°C/Gas Mark 5. Roast for about 30 minutes, until golden brown. Remove from the oven and pour in the brandy, stirring and scraping the base of the tin with a wooden spoon to deglaze. Add the chicken wings and pan juices to the stock, together with the star anise, bay leaf and thyme. Bring to the boil and simmer gently for 1 hour, then strain into a clean pan and leave to cool a little. Discard the wings and herbs.
For the broth, blitz the chicken thighs in a food processor. Remove from the processor to a plate, then blitz the carrot, shallot, garlic, celery and mushrooms. In a clean bowl, whisk the egg whites until they form soft peaks. In a bowl, mix the chicken with the blitzed vegetables and fold in the egg whites. Add this mixture to the stock and slowly bring to a simmer, stirring very gently from time to time so it doesn’t catch on the bottom of the pan. Once the solids reach the top of the pan and form a crust, poke a small hole in the centre. Now leave the stock to simmer gently, undisturbed, for 45 minutes. Strain through a double layer of muslin, discarding the crust. Taste and check the seasoning.
Transfer a little of this consommé to a clean pan and simmer the pearl barley in it for about 25 minutes, until tender. Cook the diced carrot and celery in a little of the consommé in a separate pan. When they are tender, mix with the pearl barley and add the parsley.
To serve, divide the pearl barley mixture between 4 soup plates. Scatter the reserved grouse meat on top and pour the hot consommé over.
PAPPARDELLE WITH VENISON RAGù, RED CABBAGE AND PECORINO
This is a no-nonsense winter warmer, slow-cooked venison ragù with a kick of spiced red cabbage. Sure, the purists may balk, but eating is believing. The sauce has majestic richness and a wonderful acidic kick. Fortnum’s make their own pappardelle for this – a deeply luxurious version using a mighty eighteen egg yolks. But feel free to use a good-quality dried pappardelle or tagliatelle. Just check the ingredients list to make sure that it contains a decent ratio of egg yolk.
& perfectly matches a glass of Valpolicella
SERVES 6
· 2 carrots
· 1 onion
· 3 garlic cloves
· 2 sticks of celery
· 1 tablespoon olive oil
· 600g minced venison
· 50g butter
· 500ml red wine
· 500ml beef stock
· 250ml chicken stock
· 1 teaspoon thyme leaves
· 1 bay leaf
· 500g good-quality dried pappardelle
FOR THE RED CABBAGE
· ½ a small red cabbage, sliced
· 50g dark soft brown sugar
· 100ml red wine
· 1 cinnamon stick
TO FINISH
· 3 tablespoons olive oil
· 200g Pecorino Romano cheese, grated
· 2 teaspoons chopped rosemary
· 2 teaspoons chopped parsley
· 2 teaspoons crushed juniper berries
Peel the carrots, onion and garlic and cut them and the celery into rough chunks. Place in a food processor and blitz until finely chopped.
Heat the tablespoon of olive oil in a large, heavy-based frying pan, then add the minced venison and sear over a high heat until golden brown. Remove from the pan and set aside. Reduce the heat, add the butter, then stir in the vegetables and garlic and cook gently until soft. Return the venison to the pan, pour in the red wine and simmer until reduced by two-thirds. Add the beef stock, chicken stock, herbs and some salt and pepper and simmer gently for 1½–2 hours, until most of the liquid has evaporated and the mixture is moist and well-flavoured.
While the venison is cooking, put all the ingredients for the red cabbage into a separate pan, cover and cook gently for about 1 hour, until the cabbage is tender and most of the liquid has evaporated. Season to taste and drain off any excess liquid. Cook the pasta in a large pan of boiling salted water until al dente, then drain. Stir the cabbage into the venison ragù. Toss with the pasta, half the olive oil and half the cheese and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Divide between serving bowls and scatter over the rest of the cheese, the chopped rosemary, parsley and the crushed juniper berries. Drizzle over the remaining olive oil and serve straight away.