Made at Home: The food I cook for the people I love. Giorgio Locatelli
grown as a peasant crop in many countries, including Italy, because it can grow in areas where conditions are harsh, and so in times of famine it was very important. Then it fell out of favour, after it was discovered that it contained a neurotoxin called diaminopropionic acid, and if it was eaten as a major part of the diet over a period of time (as could happen during times of famine) it could cause paralysis of the lower limbs in adults and brain damage in children. However, in small quantities it is now known to be harmless. In fact it is considered to be nutritious, as well as full of flavour – but if you prefer, you can use chickpeas. If you can find good chickpeas in jars, that have no thickeners or other unwanted ingredients added, and not too much salt, you can use them instead.
Serves 6
dried cicerchia, or chickpeas 300g, or the equivalent good jarred or tinned ones
dried cannellini or other white beans 150g
dried borlotti beans 150g
shallots 100g, finely chopped
salted capers 40g, rinsed
anchovy fillets in oil 12, rinsed
de-salted salt cod 1kg
garlic 8 cloves, whole
bay leaves 7
milk 2 litres
pancetta 6 thin slices
fresh sage leaves a small bunch
diced pancetta 200g
lamb’s lettuce 300g
delicate extra virgin olive oil, for example Ligurian 300ml
fresh flat-leaf parsley a handful
Giorgio’s dressing 150ml (see here)
Creamed salt cod salad with cicerchia purée
1 Soak the cicerchia (or dried chickpeas, if using) and the beans in separate bowls of water overnight.
2 Preheat the oven to 180°C/gas 4.
3 Mix the shallots, capers and anchovies in a bowl.
4 Lay the cod in a deep roasting tray and spread the shallot, caper and anchovy mixture over the top. Add 3 of the garlic cloves and 4 of the bay leaves and pour the milk over the top, then cover with foil. Bake in the preheated oven for 2½–3 hours, until the cod breaks into soft flakes, then remove and keep to one side. Turn the oven down to 150°C/gas 2.
5 Line a baking tray with baking paper and lay the slices of pancetta on top. Put into the oven for 40 minutes, until crispy, then lift out.
6 Meanwhile, drain the cicerchia or chickpeas and beans, discarding the water. Rinse under running water and put into separate pans with enough fresh water to cover. Add another clove of garlic, a bay leaf, and a few sage leaves to each pan. Bring to the boil, then turn down to a simmer and cook until tender (each one will take roughly an hour). Take off the heat, leave to cool down in the cooking water, then drain. Keep back half the cicerchia or chickpeas then mix the rest with the beans in a bowl. If using jarred or tinned chickpeas, add half now, but keep the rest, with their liquid.
7 Heat a frying pan, add the diced pancetta and sauté until crisp and golden. Lift out and drain on kitchen paper, then add to the bowl, together with the lamb’s lettuce.
8 Take the reserved cicerchia or chickpeas and put into a blender, adding 3 tablespoons of the olive oil a little at a time, until you have a creamy purée. If using jarred or tinned chickpeas, heat them up with enough of their liquid to cover before blending. Keep to one side.
9 Put the remaining garlic cloves on a chopping board and with the back of a large knife, crush them into a paste. Put the parsley leaves on top and chop finely, so that the garlic and parsley combine and release their flavours into each other.
10 Lift the cod from the cooking milk and put it into the bowl of a food mixer. Pour the milk and the shallot, caper and anchovy mixture through a fine sieve, discarding the milk. Add the drained anchovy mixture to the cod and mix slowly, adding the rest of the olive oil a little at a time, to avoid splitting the mixture, until you have a creamy consistency. Towards the end of mixing, add the chopped parsley and garlic.
11 To serve, spread the cicerchia or chickpea purée over the base of a shallow serving dish. Toss the rest of the cicerchia or chickpeas and beans with the lamb’s lettuce and dressing and scatter over the purée. Spoon the creamed salt cod over the top and finish with the crispy slices of pancetta.
Creamed salt cod salad with confit cherry tomatoes
This is a variation on the previous recipe to make in summer when you have good, ripe cherry tomatoes. The salt cod has a very deep, rich flavour, and the acidity of the tomatoes and the pepperiness of the watercress offset it perfectly. I really like it with crunchy polenta crisps (see here).
Serves 6
shallots 100g, finely chopped
salted capers 40g, rinsed
anchovy fillets in oil 12, rinsed
de-salted salt cod 1kg
garlic 6 cloves, whole
bay leaves 5
milk 2 litres
cherry tomatoes 1kg
olive oil 500ml
fresh rosemary 1 sprig
fresh flat-leaf parsley a handful
watercress leaves 2 bunches
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
white wine vinegar 1 tablespoon
To serve:
polenta crisps (see here), (optional)
1 If you are making the polenta crisps, these need to be started off the night before.
2 Preheat the oven to 180°C/gas 4.
3 Mix the shallots, capers and anchovies in a bowl.
4 Lay the cod in a deep roasting tray and spread the shallot, caper and anchovy mixture over the top. Add 3 of the garlic cloves and 4 of the bay leaves and pour the milk over the top, then cover with foil. Bake in the preheated oven for 2½–3 hours, until you can break the cod easily into soft flakes. Keep to one side.
5 Meanwhile, lay the tomatoes in a single layer in a shallow heatproof dish. Heat half the olive oil very gently in a pan with a garlic clove, bay leaf and rosemary – just until the odd bubble breaks the surface and the herbs begin to lightly fry (around 70–80°C if you have a thermometer). Take off the heat and pour over the tomatoes, so that they are completely covered. Leave for 2 hours, until cool.
6 Put the remaining garlic cloves on a chopping board, and with the back of a large knife, crush them into a paste. Put the parsley leaves on top and chop finely, so that the garlic and parsley combine and release their flavours into each other.
7 Lift the cod from the cooking milk and put it into the bowl of a food mixer. Pour the milk and anchovy mixture through a fine sieve, discarding the milk. Add the drained anchovy mixture to the cod and mix slowly, adding the rest of the olive oil a little at a time, to avoid splitting the mixture, until you have a creamy consistency. Towards the end of mixing, add the parsley and garlic.
8 Drain the tomatoes, but retain the oil. Halve the tomatoes and put into a serving dish. Add the watercress, season and dress with about 3 tablespoons of the oil reserved from marinating the tomatoes, together with the white wine vinegar. Serve with the creamed salt cod and the polenta crisps, if you like.
Cappon