May Martin’s Sewing Bible: 40 years of tips and tricks. May Martin
Interfacing is used to add body to a garment to give firmness and stability. It is applied to the wrong side of certain parts of the garment during construction, typically collars, cuffs and bands where buttonholes are worked. Interfacing should not overpower or change the natural character of a fabric; it should support and enhance without making it rigid.
Many different types of interfacing are available, from ultra-fine for use in dressmaking to heavyweight buckram for crafts and curtain headings, so how do you choose the right kind for your fabric? It’s best to select a similar weight of interfacing to the fabric you are using – feel the texture and drape of the interfacing compared with that of the main fabric. If you can, test a small piece tacked or fused on to your fabric. When there is a choice between a heavier or a lighter weight of interfacing, choose the latter. It is possible to add more than one layer of lighter-weight interfacing.
Types of interfacing
There are three main types of interfacing:
Non-woven: This type is made from bonded fibres and has a felt-like appearance. It has no grain line and can be cut out in any direction.
Woven: This has a grain line and needs to be cut out with the grain going in exactly the same direction as the garment piece to which it will be attached,. The garment will hang better as a result
Knitted: This type of interfacing has a knitted structure that enables it to stretch with the garment.
All of the above types can be purchased in sew-in and fusible (iron-on) forms:
Sew-in: This is good to use on fabric with a pile or a texture that may not be able to cope with the hot iron required to melt the glue on fusible interfacing. It needs to be cut out and tacked onto the wrong side of the piece that it is supporting. It is caught into the seams during construction.
Fusible: Fusible interfacing is very convenient, as you effectively ‘glue’ it on to the parts of the garment that need reinforcement without needing to tack it in place. Here are some basic instructions for applying it:
1. Cut out the interfacing using the pattern piece of the shape to be stiffened.
2. Trim most of the seam allowance from the edge of the piece. This will reduce bulk during construction.
3. Place the garment piece with the wrong side facing you. Position the piece of interfacing glue side down on top of the fabric.
4. Press into position. Lift the iron up and down, working from the centre of the interfacing outwards. It will take a few seconds in each place for the glue to melt.
Top Tip
Fusible interfacing needs to be handled with care. I put an oven liner on the ironing board to protect it from the sticky deposits that sometimes escape from the interfacing when I’m ironing it into position.
Thread
Having selected your fabric, you’ll then need to choose a reel or two of thread to go with it. Thread comes in varying thicknesses and types and is graded: the higher the number, the finer the thread. Standard sewing thread is size 50 and will suit most projects.
With a rainbow of different hues to choose from, selecting the right colour can be tricky: if in doubt, choose a shade darker than your project. I’m always amazed, however, at how well certain neutral shades go with almost any colour of fabric. My quilting friends swear by shades of grey thread, as they blend with a multitude of coloured fabrics.
Buying good quality and new
It’s important to buy good-quality thread. If the thread has no details of any kind on the end of the spool, it is probably inferior quality. If you can, examine a strand of thread against a piece of white paper. If it looks fluffy, it is probably a cheaper type of thread made with insufficient twist so the fibres do not hold together and therefore it will tend to break and deposit fluff between the tension discs of your sewing machine.
Granny’s sewing basket is not the best place to go hunting for cotton reels. Thread is one of the items of haberdashery that does not age well. Over time it deteriorates, losing elasticity and becoming brittle so that it breaks easily. Sadly, old thread is only good for tacking.
Types of thread
In the sewing projects you’ll see that I’ve recommended reels of all-purpose sewing thread. Designed to be used on a domestic sewing machine, these come in different fibre types, so you can find one to suit most projects and fabrics.
Cotton: Cotton thread has little or no give and hence is best used on stable or natural fibres. If you use it to sew knitted fabrics, such as cotton jersey, your machine needle may skip and the thread may break.
Polyester: This type of thread has strength and elasticity. It won’t fade or shrink in the wash. Most polyester thread has a silicone coating that helps it glide through the machine and the fabric. Ideal for sewing knitted fabrics.
Cotton-wrapped polyester: This thread has the elasticity of polyester and the heat resistance of cotton. It can be used on both knitted and woven fabrics.
Silk: A beautiful lustrous thread, great for tailoring as it moulds when pressed. The stitches sink into the seam lines and become invisible.
Rayon: This type of thread was originally developed as a cheaper alternative to silk. Like silk, it has a sheen and produces fine stitching. Although not as strong as polyester or cotton thread, it is good for sewing embroidery and more delicate fabrics.
Notions
These are all the additional items you will need to finish your garment – zips, buttons, binding, decorative trims and braids etc. Once you have found the fabric that you think suits your project, you can ask an assistant for guidance. A good fabric shop will be able to help you choose the right interfacing and all those little bits and pieces that will aid successful garment completion.
Paper Patterns
There are many different brands of paper pattern and the choice available is huge, not just for dressmaking but for craft and home-furnishing projects too. Once you’ve chosen your pattern, everything else will fall into place as the pattern not only provides the template for your dressmaking or other project, but offers advice on the type of fabric to choose, along with all the other bits and pieces you’ll need.
Choosing a Pattern for your Dressmaking Project
When I first started sewing, I loved popping into my local fabric shop to perch on a stool at what was called the ‘pattern bar’ and flick through the pages of various catalogues. It was wonderful to look through the many styles on offer and make my choice. Today I tend to use the internet and a site specialising in paper patterns. Seated by my computer, instead of a pattern bar, I explore the many pages of patterns on view before making my choice. My students often ask me how to choose their first project. Build your skills gradually, is what I advise them, and choose one within your capabilities. Dressmaking takes you on a voyage of discovery and there are many techniques to learn. I am there in the class to guide my students and help them on their journey. Here are a few pointers that I would give anyone just beginning:
1.