E for Additives. Maurice Hanssen
diet, and women who take the birth control pill and may need far more B6 than can be obtained in a likely diet. Unless vegetarians are careful they can be short of zinc, and there is a general shortage of selenium in British soil which used to be supplemented by the use of selenium rich Manitoba wheat for bread making, but now that we make most of our bread from British flour, we could have too little in the diet.
A Committee on the Medical Aspects of Food has been convened under the chairmanship of Dr Roger Whitehead to look at this whole question and suggest a new list of Recommended Daily Amounts, but it is not unreasonable to hope that the position of vitamin and mineral pill manufacturers can be regularized before the Committee reports and that regulations can be made so that they are not prevented by law from giving accurate nutritional and biological information about the ingredients to the public—surely an absurd and unnecessary restraint upon our freedom.
What is an Additive?
According to the Codex Alimentarius, a food additive is: ‘Any substance not normally consumed as a food by itself and not normally used as a typical ingredient of food, whether or not it has nutritive value, the intentional addition of which to food for a technological (including organoleptic) purpose in the manufacture, processing, preparation, treatment, packing, packaging, transport or holding of such food results in, or may be reasonably expected to result (directly or indirectly) in it or its by-products becoming a component of or otherwise affecting the characteristics of such. The term does not include “contaminants” or substances added to food for maintaining or improving nutritional qualities.’ (‘Organoleptic’ means sight, taste, smell and texture as perceived by the senses.)
Because manufacturers can use either the E number or the proper name of the additive as an alternative, they often choose to use the name on the premise that it is less ‘frightening’ than the E number. On the other hand, some ingredients which have valuable nutritional properties can cause confusion because they have names that look very much like additives, whereas in fact they are not in that class.
A good example is soya protein isolate, which is the valuable protein part of the soya bean in a very pure state and is an extraordinarily good source of very nutritious protein. It can make meat products in particular, such as sausages and pies, as well as a number of other dishes and drinks, more nutritious than they would be without it, and also has useful technical properties in giving the product a better appearance and texture.
Again, if you use an egg yolk because of the emulsifying properties of its natural lecithin then it is declared as the ingredient ‘egg-yolk’ and not as ‘E322’, lecithin.
Meat Products
Regulations governing meat products and spreadable fish products were laid before Parliament in October 1984. Like the E-numbering provisions, these came into full operation in July 1986.
Polyphosphates (E450) allow the manufacturer to add water to meat products without it becoming obvious to the consumer. If the meat is cooked or raw and contains added water, then the producer will have to declare: ‘with not more than x per cent added water.’ X is the maximum added water content of the food. On the other hand, if the meat is uncooked and cured, such as bacon, of which more than 10 per cent is added water, then the declaration has to say ‘with not more than y per cent added water’; but that does not mean that this figure represents the amount of added water—y represents a multiple of 5 by which the percentage of water in the product exceeds 10 per cent! Finally, to make matters clear to our (presumably computer owning!) consumer—if it is cooked pure meat then the declaration has to say ‘with not more than z per cent added water’, z being an indication in multiples of 5 of the percentage of water added.
There is a list of parts of the carcass which may not be used in uncooked meat products—and may therefore be used in cooked meat products. You will be glad to know what comprehensive use manufacturers of cooked meat products can make of the slaughtered animal; they can use the brains, foot, large intestine, small intestine lungs, oesophagus, rectum, spinal cord, spleen, stomach, testicles, and udder. There has to be an argument for manufacturers to tell us just what parts of the animal are used and how much, not just to use the blanket description ‘offal’.
A meat pie weighing between 100g and 200g must have a meat content of not less than 21 per cent of the total. If the pie weighs less than 100g the meat content can shrink to 19 per cent of the food, otherwise the meat content can soar to the dizzy heights of 25 per cent as a minimum; but, of these percentages, the lean meat content need only be half so, at the worst, a quarter of a pound pork pie may contain just over a third of an ounce of lean meat—and it may include unexpected parts of the beast.
The true nature of the contents are then disguised in taste and appearance by the use of flavour enhancers, such as monosodium glutamate (number 621). It can then be coloured, flavoured and, after the addition of the appropriate amount of water, you can have at the worst, a very fatty pie but one which looks and tastes good. Though of course there are many pie manufacturers who certainly do use the finest ingredients, it would be worth their while making clear claims. The fat content of burgers and sausages is also controlled, in general so that the fat content of the meat pan of burgers does not exceed 35 per cent and of sausages, 50 per cent.
Many German meat products are labelled with their fat content. In order to be able to eat sensibly we should demand that such information be available throughout the EEC.
The British government wants to introduce fat content labelling but are being opposed by the EEC. Many responsible food manufacturers are now labelling the fat content voluntarily and this is to be encouraged.
2. Why Are There Still Secret Ingredients?
The Food Labelling Regulations of 1984 introduced the E-code which made it much easier to identify at least some of the additives in our food. But did they go far enough? There is, in fact, a wide range of foods and other things we swallow where we are not told what the ingredients are.
Alcoholic Drinks
Any drink with an alcoholic strength by volume of more than 1.2 per cent does not have to list the ingredients. This means that if you are, for example an asthmatic and are particularly sensitive to sulphur dioxide (E220), which is a commonly used preservative in wines, beers and ciders, then you have no way of telling whether it is present or not, let alone whether the content is near the permitted maximum or very low. If you are sensitive then you have to look out for the whole range of sulphites—E220 to 227—but when the Dutch Consumer Organization tested a selection of wines in 1985, they found that some of them had higher than the permitted limits of sulphur dioxide.
A test published in Which? magazine in May 1986 found that a number of the nineteen wines tested were near the maximum and that, if you regularly drank just a quarter litre (2 glasses) of most of the white wines, or one third of a litre (2 1/2 glasses) of some of the reds, you could exceed the Acceptable Daily Intake.
The EEC permits aeration, which is usually done with carbon dioxide (E290), to make cheap sparkling ‘bubbly’. To encourage the growth of yeasts during fermentation there is permission for an addition of diammonium phosphate or ammonium sulphate (no E numbers) up to a level of 0.3g/l either separately or combined. You can also feed the yeast by the addition of thiamin hydrochloride (vitamin B,) up to 0.6mg/l.
The sulphites that may be used include not only sulphur dioxide but also potassium bisulphite and potassium metabisulphite. White wines can be treated during fermentation with charcoal to a maximum of 100g of dry charcoal per hectolitre to remove impurities.
Wine has to be clarified, or cleared, after fermentation. However, some of the ingredients and processing aids that might be used provide significant moral problems for certain sections of the population who surely have the right to know if such items are being included in the process. The full list