The English Housekeeper: Or, Manual of Domestic Management. Anne Cobbett
Cocks and Grey Hens.
Guinea Fowls from the end of January till May; their eggs are much more delicate than common ones.
Hares from September to March.
Leverets from March to September.
Rabbits all the year round.
Fish.
The seasons of Fish frequently vary; therefore the surest way to have it good is to confide in the honesty of respectable fishmongers; unless, indeed, you are well acquainted with the several sorts, and have frequent practice in the choosing of it. No fish when out of season can be wholesome food.
Turbot is in season from September to May. Fish of this kind do not all spawn at the same time; therefore, there are good as well as bad all the year round. The finest are brought from the Dutch coast. The belly of a Turbot should be cream coloured, and upon pressing your finger on this part, it should spring up. A Turbot eats the better for being kept two or three days. Where there is any apprehension of its not keeping, a little salt may be sprinkled on it, and the fish hung in a cool dry place.
Salmon.—This favourite fish is the most unwholesome of all. It ought never to be eaten unless perfectly fresh, and in season. Salmon is in season from Christmas till September. The Severn Salmon, indeed, is in season in November, but it is then obtained only in small quantities. This, and the Thames Salmon, are considered the best. That which comes from Scotland, packed in ice, is not so good. Salmon Peel are very nice flavoured, but much less rich than large Salmon; come in June.
Cod is in perfection at Christmas; but it comes in, generally, in October; in the months of February and March it is poor, but in April and May it becomes finer. The Dogger Bank Cod are considered the best. Good Cod fish are known by the yellow spots on a pure white skin. In cold weather they will keep a day or two.
Skate, Haddocks, Soles, Plaice, and Flounders are in season in January, as well as Smelts and Prawns. In February, Lobsters and Herrings become more plentiful; Haddocks not in such good flavour as they were. In March Salmon becomes plentiful, but is still dear. And in this month the John Dory comes in.
In April Smelts and Whiting are plentiful; and Mackerel and Mullet come in; also river Trout.
In May Oysters go out of season, and Cod becomes not so good; excepting these, all the fish that was in season at Christmas, is in perfection in this month.
In June Salmon, Turbot, Brill, Skate, Halibut, Lobsters, Crabs, Prawns, Soles, Eels and Whiting are plentiful and cheap. Middling sized Lobsters are best, and must weigh heavy to be good. The best Crabs measure about eight inches across the shoulders. The silver eel is the best, and, next to that, the copper-brown backed eel. A humane method of putting this fish to death is to run a sharp-pointed skewer or fine knitting needle into the spinal marrow, through the back part of the skin, and life will instantly cease.
In July fish of all sorts plentiful, except Oysters, and about at the cheapest. Cod not in much estimation.
In the months of August and September, particularly the former, fish is considered more decidedly unwholesome than at any other time of the year, and more especially in London. Oysters come in, and Turbot and Salmon go out of season. In choosing Oysters, natives are best; they should be eaten as soon after they are opened as possible. There are various ways of keeping and feeding oysters, for which see Index.
In October Cod comes in good season, also Haddocks, Brill, Tench, and every sort of shell fish.
In November most sorts of fish are to be got, but all are dear. Oysters are excellent in this month.
Fresh Herrings from November to January.
River Eels all the year.
Red Mullet come in May.
Flounders and Plaice in June.
Sprats beginning of November.
Gurnet is best in the spring.
Sturgeon in June.
Yarmouth Mackerel from May till August.
Vegetables.
Artichokes are in season from July to October.
Jerusalem Artichokes from September till June.
Asparagus, forced, may be obtained in January; the natural growth, it comes in about the middle of April, and continues through May, June, and July.
French Beans, forced, may be obtained in February, of the natural growth, the beginning of July; and they continue in succession through August.
Red Beet is in season all the year.
Scotch Cale in November.
Brocoli in October.
Cabbage of most sorts in May, June, July, and August.
Cardoons from November till March.
Carrots come in in May.
Cauliflowers, the beginning of June.
Celery, the beginning of September.
Corn Salad, in May.
Cucumbers may be forced as early as March; of their natural growth they come in July, and are plentiful in August and September.
Endive comes in in June, and continues through the winter.
Leeks come in in September, and continue till the Spring.
Lettuce, both the Coss and the Cabbage, come in about April, and continue to the end of August.
Onions, for keeping, in August.
Parsley, all the year.
Parsnips come in in October; but they are not good until the frost has touched them.
Peas, the earliest forced, come in about the beginning of May; of their natural growth, about the beginning of June, and continue till the end of August.
Potatoes, forced, in the beginning of March; and the earliest of natural growth in May.
Radishes, about the beginning of March.
Small Salad, in May and June; but may be had all the year.
Salsify and Scorzonera, in July and August.
Sea Kale may be found as early as December or January, but of the natural growth it comes in in April and May.
Eschalots, for keeping, in August and three following months.
Spring Spinach, in March, April, and three following months.
Winter Spinach from October through the winter.
Turnips, of the garden, in May; but the field Turnips, which are best, in October.
CHAPTER V.
THE KITCHEN.
The benefit of a good kitchen is well known to every housekeeper, but it is not every mistress that is aware of the importance of having a good cook. I have seen kitchens which, though fitted up with every convenience, and certainly at considerable expense, yet failed to send forth good dinners, merely because the lady of the house was not happy in her choice of a cook. I do not in the least admire gourmands,