Парижская мода. Культурная история. Валери Стил
Bayle. Le Costume en Bourgogne. Pp. 185–186; Fashions and Textiles at the Court of Burgundy. Pp. 1843, 1847.
30
Fashions and Textiles at the Court of Burgundy. P. 1850; Beaulieu and Bayle. Le Costume en Bourgogne. Pp. 125–129.
31
Hollander A. Seeing Through Clothes. New York: Viking, 1978. Pp. 367–369.
32
Morris I. The World of the Shining Prince. New York: Oxford University Press, 1964. Pp. 38, 206.
33
Francks P. Was Fashion a European Invention? The Kimono and Economic Development in Japan // Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture. 2015. Vol. 19.3. June. Pp. 331–361. См. также: Ikegami E. Bonds of civility: Aesthetic Networks and the Political Origins of Japanese Culture. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2005. P. 247.
34
Brook T. The Confusions of Pleasure: Commerce and Culture in Ming China. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1998. P. 220.
35
Ibid. P. 221.
36
Colomer J. L. Black and the Royal Image // José Luis Colomer and Amalia Descalzo, eds. Spanish Fashion at the Courts of Early Modern Europe. Madrid: Centro de Estudios Europa Hispánica, 2014. Vol. 1. P. 78.
37
Colomer. Black and the Royal Image. P. 90.
38
Batterberry M., Batterberry A. Fashion, The Mirror of History. New York: Greenwich House, 1977. P. 119.
39
Ribeiro A. A Story of Pride and Prejudice: Perceptions of Spanish Dress in Seventeenth-Century England // Colomer and Descalzo, Spanish Fashion. 2014. Vol. II. Pp. 317–340.
40
Madame de Motteville, цит. по: Wiley L. The Formal French. Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1967. P. 171.
41
Mossiker F. Madame de Sévigné: A Life and Letters. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1983. P. 224.
42
Женщины-портнихи (фр.).
43
Roche D. The Culture of Clothing: Dress and Fashion in the Ancient Regime. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1996. Pp. 86–117, 144–145.
44
Crowston C. H. Fabricating Women: The Seamstresses of Old Regime France, 1675–1791. Durham; London: Duke University Press, 2001. P. 12.
45
Mercure Galant (1672), цит. по: Crowston. Р. 30.
46
DeJean J. The Essence of Style: How the French Invented High Fashion, Fine Food, Chic Cafés, Style, Sophistication, and Glamour. New York; London: Free Press, 2005. Pp. 47–48.
47
Lacroix P. The Eighteenth Century: Its Institutions, Customs, and Costumes. France, 1700–1789. London: Bickers & Son, n. d. P. 458.
48
The Present State of the Court of France, and the City of Paris (1712), цит. по: Ribeiro A. Dress in Eighteenth Century Europe 1715–1789. London: B. T. Batsford Ltd., 1984. P. 20.
49
Perrot. Les Dessus et les dessous. Paris: Fayard, 1981. Pp. 34–35.
50
Le Tableau de Paris (Amsterdam, 1782–1788), and Le Nouveau Paris (Paris, 1798) / Abridged and translated by Wilfred and Emilie Jackson. The Picture of Paris Before and After the Revolution. London: George Routledge & Sons, 1929. P. 9; Le Tableau de Paris / Only by Helen Simpson. The Waiting City, Paris 1782–1788. London: George G. Harrap, 1933. Pp. 240–241, 52. См. также: Giafferri P.-L. de. The History of French Masculine Costume. New York: Foreign Publications, 1927. Section 63; Perrot Ph. Les Dessus et les dessous de la bourgeoisie: Une histoire du vêtement au XIXe siècle. Paris: Librairie Arthème Fayard, 1981. Pp. 33–34. Рус. пер. цит. по: Мерсье Л.-С. Картины Парижа / Пер. В. А. Барбашевой. М.; Л., 1936. Т. 1. С. 3, 387–388.
51
Ribeiro. Dress in Eighteenth Century Europe. P. 18.
52
Rousseau. La Nouvelle Héloïse, цит. по: Perrot. Les Dessus et les dessous. P. 301. Рус. пер. цит. по: Руссо Ж.-Ж. Юлия, или Новая Элоиза / Пер. Н. И. Немчиновой и А. А. Худаковой // Руссо Ж.-Ж. Избр. соч.: В 3 т. М., 1961. С. 196.
53
Mercier / Transl. Simpson. The Waiting City. P. 273.
54
Ibid. P. 135.
55
Непринужденный (фр.).
56
Mercier / Transl. Jackson. The Picture of Paris. P. 18; transl. Simpson. The Waiting City. P. 135. Рус. пер. цит. по: Мерсье Л.-С. Картины Парижа / Пер. В. А. Барбашевой. М.; Л., 1936. Т. 1. С. 193.
57
George M. D. English Political Caricature. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1959. P. 147; Macaroni and Theatrical Magazine. 1772. October, цит. по: George M. D. Hogarth to Cruikshank: Social Change in Graphic Satire. London: Penguin, 1967. P. 59. См. также: Steele V. The Social and Political Significance of Macaroni Fashion // Costume: The Journal of the Costume Society. 1985. 19. Pp. 94–109.
58
Town and Country Magazine. 1771. November. P. 598.
59
Bickerstaff I. Lionel and Clarissa (a comic opera). C. 1768, цит. по: Rhead W. H. Chats on Costume. London, 1906. P. 104; The London Magazine: or, Gentleman’s Monthly Intelligencer. 1772. April. P. 193.
60
В английском костюме, мы знаем, здравый смысл
Дает отпор модным веяниям…
В то время как пышная глупость, растворенная в парижском воздухе,
требует отдавать должное только титулу.
61
Hitchcock