The Real Jerk. Lily Pottinger
courtesy. This is how we feel about our food, our customers, and our homeland.
There is a gentle, easy rhythm to life in Jamaica that is evident in its people, its culture, and its food. It is this same rhythm that guides us in our restaurant, and which we hope encourages you in your own kitchen. As Jamaicans, food has always been a big part of our life and our culture. Jamaica’s motto, “Out of many, one people,” describes the rich diversity of life and people there, and also relates to how food, among other things, brings us closer together.
It is our goal to introduce you all to the wonderful world of Jamaican cuisine, whether you visit our restaurant or try our recipes at home. Our hope for this book is that it inspires people to cook, especially young people, and that it gives a positive view of our Caribbean culture. We all have so much in common and, when and if we allow ourselves to be open-minded and take the time to explore our differences, we are so much better for it.
Irie!
Cooking with Spices and Herbs Using not only fresh herbs but also dried herbs and powdered spices can enhance the taste of Caribbean cooking. Dried herbs and spices are more concentrated in flavor than fresh herbs. For the most part, 1 tbsp of a fresh herb equals ½ to 1 tsp dried and ¼ tsp ground. Herbs and spices should be stored in a cool, dark place.
Jamaican cooking also makes use of prepared canned foods, and bottled essences and sauces. For extra flavor and richness to soups, add soup mixes. To stews and chicken and fish dishes, add instant boullion (in sachet or cube form) directly into the pot. Ketchup, HP Sauce, Pikappeppa Sauce, Worcestershire sauce, and soy sauce are also common to our cooking. To add flavor to drinks: add bitters, strawberry, or cherry syrup.
Preparing Provisions and Staples In Jamaica, we tend to call food staples, “provisions.” Yams, coco, sweet potato, green bananas, and breadfruit are all popular provisions used throughout the islands with a variety of dishes. They are readily available and easily prepared. Just peel, cut, or slice, put in a pot with just enough water to cover, add 1 tsp oil, salt to taste, and boil for 20 minutes. When preparing any provisions or banana, use oil to grease the palm of your hands; this will prevent staining or itching.
Cutting up a Whole Chicken and/or Deboning Chicken Breasts With a sharp knife, cut off wings by cutting through the wing joints, following the crook of the joints. To cut off legs, cut skin between leg and body, then make a cut through meat along the line between the tail and hip joint. Pull leg away from bone and cut through. If you want to sever the drumsticks from the thighs, cut along the fat line that crosses the joint between drumstick and thigh. Separate backbone by holding body down and cutting along each side of the backbone through the rib joints. To debone the breast, place skin side down and cut through cartilage at the V-joint of the neck. Using two hands, bend both sides of breast back and pull, popping out the bone and attached cartilage.
Handling Hot Peppers The heat of peppers is concentrated in the seeds and veins. When seeding and chopping hot peppers, wear kitchen or rubber gloves. After handling peppers, wash hands thoroughly in warm, soapy water, or soak them in a sugar/water solution. When using whole peppers in soups and stews, or puréeing them in food processors or blenders, the vapor coming off the peppers can be strong, so watch that you don’t get the steam in your eyes.
Preparing Sterilized Jars Jars must be glass and in good condition, without chips or cracks. They must be sterilized.
To sterilize, fill, and seal jars:
a) In a dishwater, use rinse cycle and the hottest temperature. DO NOT use detergent.
b) Place clean jars face down in a large pot, cover completely with cold water. Bring water to a boil, cover pot, and boil jars for 20 minutes. Wearing rubber gloves, and using tongs, remove jars from water.
c) Fill jars with hot liquid. Seal with lacquer-lined sealing seals sold specifically for home preserving. Do not use metal seals, especially when preserving hot peppers — the lids may corrode over time! Place lids securely over seals. Wipe jars clean; turn upside down for a few hours, then test lid and seal. Place in a cool, dark place. Once opened, the jars of preserves must be stored, covered, in a refrigerator.
Buying Fresh Fish Look for bright, clear eyes on fresh fish as well as flesh, which springs back when you press it. The smell should be fresh (i.e.,no smell). Place fresh fish in the coldest part of the fridge. Freeze any fish you do not intend to use within two days.
Buying and Preparing Shrimp When buying shrimp, look for a fresh smell like an ocean breeze. Fresh shrimp should not smell “fishy.”
Shrimp comes in many sizes. Small (sometimes called salad shrimp), medium, large, and jumbo are the most common sizes of shrimp. The size is determined by how many shrimp, shells on, are found in a pound. Average amounts:
Small: over 40 shrimp per lb
Medium: 35 to 40 shrimp per lb
Large: 26 to 35 shrimp per lb
Jumbo: 20 to 25 shrimp per lb
Peeling and Deveining Shrimp Using your hands, peel shells starting at the underside, along the feelers. If the intestinal vein that runs along the back is visible (black), remove it with the tip of a sharp paring knife.
Butterflying Shrimp Cut shrimp down the back to the tip of the tail, keeping shell and shrimp intact. Lift shrimp slightly above shell so that it looks like a large butterfly.
Preparing Mussels Scrub mussels to remove exterior sand and dirt. Steam in water, broth, or stew until they open; discard any unopened mussels.
Preparing Salt Cod Cover cod with cold water and soak overnight. Drain and simmer for 15 minutes. Drain again then simmer one more time. Drain, then remove skin and bones. Flake with a fork. Prepare extra cod, remove bones, and package in freezer bags for ready use in various dishes.
Buying and Preparing Coconut Choose a heavy coconut. Hold it to your ear and shake. If you hear water sloshing inside, it’s a good one! Poke out the eyes with a clean screwdriver or ice pick. Drain the coconut water inside. With a hammer, smash coconut into half a dozen pieces. With a paring knife, pry meat away from the shell and trim brown, hairy skin from the meat.
Buying and Pitting Mangoes Mangoes are ripe when you press your thumb against the skin and it yields to your pressure. They can be purchased green and ripened at room temperature. With a sharp paring knife, peel mango and pare it as you would a peach, slicing against the pit.
Deep-frying You can deep-fat fry in a deep fryer, a wok, or even a high-sided skillet. A large, heavy, saucepan, which usually comes high-sided, is ideal because you can rest a thermometer against the side. The average temperature to be reached in deep-frying is 360°F.
Sauces Salsas Dips & Dressings
THE REAL JERK SAUCE
The technique of jerking is thought to originate with the “Maroons,” West African slaves who escaped their Spanish masters to live in remote mountain areas of Jamaica. Later they fought the British, who arrived to re-colonize Jamaica after the Spanish left to search for gold in Central and South America. Because they were always on the run, the Maroons devised a way of spicing and slow cooking pork. The meat was marinated in an exotic mixture of Scotch bonnet peppers, pimento (allspice) berries, escallion, thyme, and other secret ingredients.
After marinating, the meat was cooked over an outdoor pit, about a foot deep. Charcoal from old, burned pimento trees was shoveled into the pit and then the pit was lined with fresh pimento wood. The low, sustained