The Gun Digest Book of Firearms Assembly/Disassembly Part IV - Centerfire Rifles. J B Wood
the bayonet mount, is retained by a through-bolt from the rear, accessible in a recess in the stock. The other stock inserts are also screw-retained.
29. A latch at the top of the steel buttplate allows it to be taken off, giving access to compartments for cleaning gear and the screw-mounted buttplate base.
30. If necessary for cleaning, the magazine can be disassembled by springing the latch at its rear off its posts, and sliding the floorplate off toward the front. CAUTION: The magazine spring will be released.
Reassembly Tips:
1. To keep the trigger, sear, and sear spring together for installation, a slave pin will be necessary. Note also the proper positions of the hammer spring guides. Be sure the one at the front engages its bearing pin in the hammer.
2. A tool inserted behind the trigger, as shown, will be helpful in moving the trigger into position for installation of the cross-pin.
3. Holding the ejector spring in partial compression, as shown, will make it easier to insert its front tip into the bolt.
4. After the ejector and its spring are back in the recess, use the forward end of its shaft to turn it into alignment with the rails.
Dixie Sharps Model 1874
Similar/Identical Pattern Guns
The same basic assembly/disassembly steps for the Sharps Model 1874 also apply to the following guns:
Original Sharps rifles and carbines, and other modern reproductions.
| Data: | Sharps Model 1874 |
| Origin: | Pedersoli, Italy |
| Importer: | Dixie Gun Works,Union City, Tennessee |
| Cartridge: | .45-70 Govt. |
| Overall length: | 47-½ inches |
| Barrel length: | 30 inches |
| Weight: | 10 pounds 6 ounces |
Christian Sharps patented the basic design of this rifle in 1848. The first metallic cartridge versions were made in 1869. The excellent modern reproductions have only one or two tiny differences in the design. The gun shown here is the Dixie Target/Hunter, a beautiful gun.
Disassembly:
1. Remove the two screws in the fore stock, and take it off downward. If you have an original or military-style gun, there will also be barrel bands with spring-depression locks to be removed.
2. Open the breech to relieve the tension of the lever spring. Remove the screw, and take off the spring.
3. If total takedown is intended, as for refinishing, removal of this screw will allow you to take out the lever pivot pin latch spring and plunger. If this is not the case, see #4.
4. Depress the latch plunger, and turn the arm of the lever pivot out of its lock flange on the receiver.
5. Remove the lever pivot pin toward the right.
6. Remove the lever and the attached breechblock downward.
7. Remove the ejector downward.
8. Removal of this recessed screw will allow the lever and its link to be separated from the breechblock.
9. The link is retained and pivoted on the lever by this cross-screw.
10. Control the firing pin transfer block, and remove the retaining screw.
11. Ease out the transfer block and remove it. On an original Sharps, the firing pin is an integral part of this unit, and there is a screw-retained leaf spring.
12. Remove the firing pin and its return spring.
13. Set the hammer in its mid-position (loading notch), and remove the front lock-plate screw.
14. Remove the rear lock-plate screw. Note that the screws are not identical, so keep them separate for reassembly.
15. Remove the lock-plate.
16. If you do not have a mainspring vise (the one shown is from Dixie Gun Works), it would be wise to avoid disassembly of the lock. After the spring is compressed by the vise, its side-post is pulled out of the lock-plate for removal. Removal of the three screws to the left will release the bridle and the sear. In normal takedown, the hammer and tumbler are not separated.
17. Remove the two large screws in the upper tang of the receiver. Note that they are not of equal length.