Ford 429/460 Engines: How to Rebuild. Charles Morris
A good assortment of pliers and side cutters will prove themselves useful with this and most auto projects undertaken in the home shop.
Parts cleaners and rust-penetrating sprays are perhaps the most important products to purchase before undertaking an engine rebuild. Bolts and nuts to be removed during your project should be liberally soaked well in advance of wrenching.
A 3/8-inch-drive ratchet and set of extensions in varying lengths will handle many tasks on your rebuild.
A 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar is a must for the heavy work, and a good old-fashioned speed wrench will help remove multiple fasteners, such as oil pan bolts, a lot quicker if you don’t have the luxury of air tools.
A complete set of quality screwdrivers (these are Craftsman Professional series) in flat and Phillips heads will prove superior to bargain brands and give years of service.
Specialized tools such as this hex set are not always necessary but can prove handy on many automotive projects.
You will find many uses for a good set of drifts, punches, and chisels on your rebuild project.
I have used this bottle jack as an inexpensive supplement to my floor jack for many years. While not particularly recommended for the real heavy work, a bottle jack will fit into areas that a floor jack can’t reach.
Craftsman sells inexpensive tap and die sets such as this one, which has saved me time and money countless times on engine rebuild projects. It’s a good investment indeed.
Safety glasses are a must in the home shop when working on or under the car. (Summit Racing)
Bolt out nut and bolt extractors are designed to grab even the most rusted and rounded-off hardware. Once you’ve dealt with a nut or bolt rounded off by someone skimping by with the wrong socket or wrench, the need for quality tools becomes crystal clear.
A set of combination wrenches in graduated sizes between 1/4 and 1¼ inches are sure to get a workout on your engine rebuild project.
Extensions of varying lengths provide reach and leverage to make your ratchet or breaker bar more effective.
Air tools are a bit pricey, but they speed up the job considerably while saving wear and tear on your arms and hands. I depend on air tools very infrequently with the exception of engine removal and teardown, which I find go much quicker with air. I do not make it a practice to use air tools during the assembly phase of my projects, since this is not a time for speed but care and attention to detail.
A click-type torque wrench (top) is one item you cannot do without when assembling an engine. The swivel head ratchet (middle) assists getting into tight spots while removing nuts/bolts. The 1/2-inch breaker bar and ratchet (bottom) will help you deal with larger, tighter fasteners.
It’s a good idea to clearly label the containers if you are temporarily storing drained fluids, especially if they once held another product. This should help avoid any mishaps.
A timing light is a useful diagnostic tool when determining if your engine needs a rebuild and an absolute necessity for properly tuning your newly rebuilt engine. Improper ignition timing can cause damage in very short order. The timing light will also indicate if the vacuum and mechanical advance functions of your distributor are working properly. (Summit Racing)
A vacuum gauge is a simple diagnostic tool that can help you pinpoint a number of simple problems that will very often masquerade as major engine malfunctions. I once witnessed an electronic analysis performed on a mid-1970s car that indicated internal engine damage when the cause was actually two deteriorated vacuum hoses that were part of the car’s emissions equipment. A vacuum gauge diagnosed the problem in short order.
A cooling system pressure tester can also reveal internal engine problems, such as leaking head and intake manifold gaskets, as well as issues with the car’s cooling system.
A remote starter (right) allows one person to crank the engine over from under the hood while conducting a compression check, adjusting valves, setting ignition points, or finding TDC.(Actron)
A compression gauge is a must-have for diagnosis work and can reveal or eliminate several potentially costly engine problems. A compression check and comparison of all the engine’s cylinders, performed with the engine at normal operating temperature, is one of the first and most important steps in the diagnosis stage.
A simple and inexpensive 12-volt test light can be used to perform a number of diagnostic tasks relating to the engine’s electrical and ignition system.
A multimeter is a more sophisticated means of checking the electrical system’s function that still carries a reasonable price tag.
A dial caliper is an inexpensive and valuable addition to your toolbox. It will allow quick, accurate measurements of smaller parts.
Feeler gauges are used for setting valve lash, ignition breaker points, and measuring the end gap of piston rings.