Perfect Pairings. Evan Goldstein
from the latter area. For now, the most notable efforts come from Chile's Casablanca region and Argentina's Mendoza, especially the higher-altitude vineyards of Argentina such as the Uco Valley.
A table of principal wine-growing regions for Chardonnay appears on pages 265-67.
VINTNER CHOICES
Still or sparkling; clones or selections; skin contact or none; wood or no wood; new or older wood; type and size of wood; use and percentage of barrel fermentation; use and percentage of malolactic fermentation (ML); lees stirring
The most significant choice for the vintner is whether to make still or sparkling wine. For sparkling wines, the decisions on production techniques and ripeness of the grapes at harvest will be made long before the crushing and pressing begin, because the grapes for bubbly require many viticultural choices. Chardonnay for sparkling wine is always picked at lower sugar levels and pressed quickly but gently, while the grapes for still wine are left out on the vine longer to ripen and develop more mature flavors. Prior to fermentation, the wine may also be left in contact with the skins for longer to extract more flavor. Deciding on the selection or clone of Chardonnay is important, as Chardonnay is generally not blended with other varietals (grape types): complexity is achieved through blending grapes from different vineyards, choosing smaller lots within vineyards, and using differing selections of Chardonnay. Selections of Chardonnay are like relatives within a family. Although they come from the same ancestors and are genetically similar, environment and experience also affect their character: siblings may differ from one another emotionally and physically as much as oil does from vinegar.
Vintners sometimes leave the fermenting wine must (the combination of grape pulp and solids) in contact with its skins. In white wine production, this process “pops” the fruit character of the wine by extracting components from the skins that make the wine very opulent and flashy. The downside is that, over time, the wines often brown and oxidize (that is, age) more quickly and can ultimately seem more like sherry than Chardonnay.
Oak, the wood employed for most wine barrels, contributes key elements to many wines. The butter or butterscotch flavors that many people identify with Chardonnay come not from the grape but from the oak, from the aging or actual fermenting of the wine in the barrel. Oak bestows a waxy, velvety texture and can add a sweet buttercream flavor to the wine. The flavors of charring or toasting picked up when the staves of the barrels are bent over an open flame, a common technique for making wine barrels, also influence the wine. As a rule, the heavier the toasting or charring of the staves, the greater the effect on the wine. Heavily toasted barrels impart more intense roasted and toasted flavors (think caramel, molasses, toffee, coffee, and burnt sugar) to the wine. The age of the barrels employed is also significant, as new oak contributes much more flavor than older, previously used oak—which, depending on the wine and the grapes, may be a better choice. The size of the oak vessel is critical: the smaller the barrel, the larger the surface area of wine exposed to the wood, and the stronger the oak influence. Then again, some producers want minimal or no oak used, as they feel it distracts from the purity of the fruit. Many winemakers in Chablis (France) and other producers around the world now making wine labeled as “unoaked” vinify their Chardonnay in this manner.
The implementation of malolactic fermentation (or ML) can soften the wine's acidic edge and adds a strong buttered-popcorn flavor. It can be entirely prevented in the winemaking process or allowed to happen in some portion of the wine, which is then blended with the rest; again, this is a vintner's choice. ML, by converting wine's malic acid (the same sharp acid found in tart green apples) into milder lactic acid (that in sour cream, yogurt, etc.), reduces the tartness of the wine and contributes a velvety smooth texture that for many wine lovers is a source of great enjoyment. This smooth texture of the wine is commonly referred to as its mouthfeel. It's considered particularly important in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
During alcoholic fermentation, as the yeast metabolizes the sugar and produces alcohol, the dead yeast cells (lees) tumble slowly to the bottom of the fermentation vessel. When the wine is stirred or agitated, they can add additional toasty flavors, along with more texture and yet another dimension of complexity. Lees stirring, as this process is called, is an increasingly common practice that originated in Burgundy.
FLAVORS
Fruit: Lemon, lime, grapefruit, tangerine, Mandarin orange, peach, nectarine, pear, apple, pineapple, fig, guava, melon, banana, marmalade, pie fruit, mango, passion fruit, kiwi, quince, cucumber
Floral: Mint, lemongrass, verbena, lemon thyme, aromatic white flowers, lemon, lime, or citrus blossoms, blond tobacco
Earth: Minerals, stones, gunflint, steel, mushrooms, chalk, forest floor (humus)
Wood (oak): Smoke, cream, vanilla, custard, caramel, bread crust, burnt sugar, molasses, maple syrup, honey, toast, coconut, hazelnut, almond, walnut, cashew, nutmeg, ginger
Other: Popcorn, butter, butterscotch, yeast, plain yogurt, cornmeal, oatmeal, flan, lemon curd
WINE AND FOOD PAIRING
INGREDIENTS AND STYLES
First off, it is easy to “lose” Chardonnay behind food. Chardonnay's personality and flavors can be easily dominated by dishes that are too rich, strong, or bold for its forward yet subtle personality. Chardonnay is best matched with foods that are enhanced by its round, full, and often silky character. Various shellfish (lobster, scallops, prawns, and shrimp) are classic and time-honored table partners, especially when accompanied by a rich sauce: drawn butter or a modification of a cream or butter sauce. The same is true for milder poultry (chicken, quail, and turkey), white meat (veal and pork), fish (halibut, trout, and swordfish), and other meats (sweetbreads and rabbit). Pastas, risotto, and other starches (winter squash and polenta) provide a great textural backdrop for many Chardonnays when paired with compatible food ingredients.
The cuisines of Hawaii and South Florida, with their reliance on tropical tastes, are particularly well suited to young fruit-forward Chardonnays, such as those coming from the United States, Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa. Nuevo Latino cooking, with its myriad sources of sweet and implied sweet ingredients, is another great partner for many similar Chardonnays and for the Chardonnays from Chile and Argentina.
METHODS OF COOKING
As so many Chardonnays spend some time in the barrel, knowing how to play off the wood or oak aging is useful. Try oak-aged Chardonnays with lightly smoked or grilled dishes and those with traits similar to those imparted by the oak: sweet spices, toast, caramel, and vanilla. It is said that the acclaimed French chef Alain Senderens developed his globally renowned lobster in vanilla sauce specifically to match the countless white Burgundies served in his former restaurant, L'Archestrate. If the Chardonnay you have selected is influenced by malolactic fermentation (that is, it has a buttery or buttered-popcorn aroma and flavor), attempt to match that core personality by sauteing or poaching with butter or incorporating butter into the dish. The use of nut oils can pick up nicely on the toasted and nutty oak characters of many a Chardonnay, and you can also add raw nuts to a dish as a last-minute ingredient rather than cooking with them. I prefer to toast the nuts first, both to preserve the texture and to echo those elements in the wine itself. Other methods of cooking that set the stage well for oak-aged Chardonnay are plank roasting, slow braising, and gentle stewing.
Please remember that not all Chardonnays are created the same. Many European versions are more austere, stressing mineral and earth components: these wines are less overtly oaky and show best with simple and clean flavors in food. Good choices here would be a roast chicken with garlic or a sautéed snapper served simply or with a tart sauce or a wedge of lemon. These styles of Chardonnay are also exceptional at diminishing the richness of thick-textured dishes and counterbalancing sauces based on cream, butter, emulsification, or reduction.
Finally, if the wine is aged and shows more developed Chardonnay flavors (almond, hazelnut, sherry, and dried fruit), it's best to keep the food as neutral as possible or, again, attempt to mirror the flavor profile of the wine. Using nuts