72). I also use whole cloves to flavor Vegetable Rice Pilaf (page 75).
Coconut milk(nariyal ka dood) Coconut milk is extracted from the white pulp of coconuts. It is not the coconut water or “juice,” which is the liquid that you can hear when shaking a coconut and that leaks out when you crack it. Coconut water is clear and thin and should be quite sweet. The milk, instead, is white and creamy and makes an excellent rich base for coconut curry dishes, providing a hint of sweetness. In India, people traditionally extract coconut milk from fresh coconuts, but this can be a lengthy process. I simply buy canned coconut milk, which is available in the Thai international section of grocery stores. Coconut milk is somewhat fattening; a light version is available, which I personally think is a suitable substitute. Coconut milk curries are common in the southern coastal regions of India, where coconut trees are commonly grown in people’s backyards. Unopened canned coconut milk can be kept for months in your pantry but keep an eye on the expiration date. If you open a can and have leftover coconut milk, transfer it to a glass or plastic container, cover it and refrigerate it for no more than three days.
Coriander leaves (cilantro)(dhania ka patta) Fresh coriander leaves, commonly referred to as “cilantro” in America, are used in Indian cooking both as a garnish and as an ingredient. Bunches of fresh coriander leaves are easy to find in the produce section of grocery stores. It keeps just about a week in the refrigerator before it starts discoloring and wilting. I store the bunch in a plastic bag in the refrigerator and tear off a handful or chop off a small quantity when I need to use some. Since there is no need to destem the leaves, you may chop the leaves and stems together. Coriander leaves should be thoroughly washed before being chopped.
Clockwise from top: coriander seeds, cinnamon stick, cumin seeds, cardamom pods, black peppercorns and cloves.
Coriander seeds(dhania) (ground and whole seeds) These are the seeds that grow into the coriander plant, which gives us the fragrant coriander leaves also known as “cilantro.” The seeds have a light and sweet citrus, almost orange-like undertone that comes out more when they are roasted and ground. I use ground coriander and the whole seeds, both of which are available in the spice section of grocery stores. You may grind whole seeds as needed for a fresher and stronger flavor but to make things easy, I simply use pre-ground coriander. Whole roasted coriander seeds are one of the main spices in my mother-in-law’s Garam Masala (page 36). (See "Roasting and Grinding Whole Spices," page 16.)
Cumin seeds(jeera) These tiny brown-colored oval seeds are a must-have in my spice box. Cumin flavors rice and many other dishes amazingly well. To release their flavor, cumin seeds are often added to heated oil and incorporated directly into a dish or they are dry-roasted and then ground. When they’re added to heated oil, they will quickly darken. To keep the seeds from burning and turning black, you must quickly add the next ingredient. Luckily, since cumin seeds are usually introduced in the first steps of cooking a dish, if you do burn them you can just discard them along with the oil and try again. This spice provides a whole different level of flavor when it is dry-roasted and ground. It can be added to meat marinades as well as to Three Vegetable Raita (page 29). (See "Roasting and Grinding Whole Spices," page 16.)
Curry leaves(kari patta) Fresh curry leaves have a distinct fragrance and are frequently used in southern Indian cooking. Though adding curry leaves to a dish will add another level of exotic flavor, the recipes in this book are still delicious without them. Because curry leaves are typically only found in ethnic grocery stores, I have made them an optional ingredient in my recipes. Many Indians who cook with curry leaves have a curry plant in their garden so fresh fragrant leaves are always on hand! Curry leaves can be left in the cooked dish and may be eaten, if desired. If you do buy fresh curry leaves, put them in a plastic bag and refrigerate them for up to one week, or until they start to dry up, whichever comes first. Wash and pat them dry before adding to hot oil to prevent splatters.
Essences, rose and pandanus(gulab and kewra) Essences are concentrated liquid extracts derived from various foods or plants that add magic to desserts and can be thought of as flavorful, edible perfumes for food. They are similar to other common extracts such as almond or vanilla. When using an essence, it is important not to add too much of it because you do not want it to overpower the dish or make it bitter. Some essences are more potent than others but usually, just two or three drops sprinkled over the dish or mixed in with the sugar syrup, or milky syrup used in a dessert, will do the trick. I use rose essence (more concentrated than rose water) and pandanus essence, which is commonly labeled with its Hindi name, kewra. Rose essence is extracted from fragrant rose petals and is clear in color. Pandanus essence is made from pandanus leaves and is light yellow to clear in color. Essences are found in small glass bottles in ethnic markets or the international section of some grocery stores. If you don’t have an essence for a dessert recipe, the dessert will still be excellent. I’ve stored my essence bottles in the refrigerator for two years, but they can be stored indefinitely in a cool dark place, or until their potency lessens.
Fennel seeds(saunf) Fennel seeds are small light green seeds that come from the fennel plant. Sometimes the use and name of fennel seeds is incorrectly interchanged with anise seeds, which have a somewhat similar flavor and appearance. A common way to use fennel seeds is as a breath freshener: It is chewed thoroughly and then swallowed. You may notice that in many Indian restaurants, near the door, there is a bowl with fennel seeds mixed with sugar to sweeten and freshen your mouth. I use fennel seeds to flavor Sweet Tamarind Chutney (page 31). On my summer trips to India as a child, one of my maternal aunts, Kamlesh Aunty, would always put together little plastic baggies of fennel candy, which was fennel seeds coated in a brightly colored, hardened sugar coating. I loved to visit her because she would always have the baggies ready to hand out to all of us cousins.
Garam Masala This aromatic spice mix is made from select whole spices that are dry-roasted to bring out their flavors, and then ground into a fine powder. Garam masala is commonly used in cooking throughout India. Although this spice mix is usually available in most grocery stores, each brand will have a slightly different flavor because there is really no set proportion or combination of spices to use. In general, most garam masala mixes will contain coriander seeds, cardamom, black peppercorns, cloves, cumin seeds and cinnamon but some brands of spice mixes may leave out or add certain spices, such as bay leaves, nutmeg and black cardamoms. For convenience, you can use the pre-blended mixes available in stores but for the best flavor, I recommend you make your own homemade batch with freshly roasted and ground spices. (See "Garam Masala," page 36.)
Garlic(lasan) The assertive flavor of garlic makes it one of my favorite cooking ingredients. Garlic bulbs are the underground root part of the plant and are made up of several cloves (small wedges of garlic) that are held together by a flaky skin that can be white, purple or pink (I use the white-skinned variety). Though mincing garlic may seem tedious, it’s definitely worth it for the flavor it adds to a dish. (See "Peeling and Chopping or Mincing Garlic," page 17.) I have found that pre-minced bottled
