The Food of Asia. Kong Foong Ling
regular celery leaves.
CENTURY EGGS Duck eggs coated with a mixture of powdered lime; rice husks and salt and left to cure for several months. To use, peel off the shell and quarter or chop the eggs, which have a translucent black albumen and greenish-grey yolk.
CHILI Many different varieties of chilies are used in Asia. The flavor of fresh and dried chilies is different, so be sure to use the type specified in the recipes. Large, finger-length green (unripe) and red (ripe) chilies are usually moderately hot.
In India chilies are used fresh only in their unripe green state. The majority of ripe red chilies are dried and a large percentage ground to make chili powder. Cut or break dried chilies into pieces and soak in hot water for about 10 minutes to soften before grinding or blending. If you want to reduce the heat without losing flavor, discard some or all of the seeds.
The main types of chili used in Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia include the normal finger-length red or green chili; tiny but fiery-hot bird's-eye chilies (which may be red, green or yellowy-orange) and dried red chilies. Be careful to wash your hands thoroughly after handling chilies-use rubber gloves if possible.
CHILI OIL Dried chilies or chili powder steeped in oil, used to enliven some Sichuan dishes.
CHILI PASTE Pounded chilies, sometimes mixed with vinegar, sold in jars. The heat varies from brand to brand. Sichuan chili paste is made from dried chilies, soaked and ground with a touch of oil.
CHILI POWDER Made from finely ground dried chilies. Do not confuse with American chili powder, which is a blend of a variety of seasonings.
CHILI SAUCE Chilies mixed with water and seasoned with salt, garlic, sugar, and vinegar, sold in bottles and jars. Some sauces are sweeter than others, and others may have added flavorings like garlic or ginger.
CHINESE CABBAGE The three most common types are white cabbage (bai cai or in Cantonese, bok choy), which has white stems and bright green leaves and is often sold in immature form; long white or "celery" cabbage, which has long pale green leaves and white celery-like stems; and round cabbage.
CHINESE RICE WINE Wine made from fermented rice used in cooking. Wine from Shaoxing, generally considered the best, is available from Chinese food stores. Dry sherry is a substitute.
CHINESE SAUSAGES Thin, sweet Chinese pork sausages that are delicately perfumed with rice wine. Used as a seasoning rather than eaten on their own. They will keep almost indefinitely without refrigeration.
CHIRONJI NUTS Small brownish nuts that look a little like large sunflower seeds, sometimes ground with other nuts, such as cashews or almonds, or with white poppy seeds to enrich some dishes. The flavor is similar to that of hazelnuts. Substitute with a mixture of hazelnuts and almonds.
CHIVES "Chinese", "coarse" or "garlic" chives have dark green flat leaves about 12 in (30 cm) long. They are used as a vegetable and as a herb. The flavor is stronger than normal chives.
CHOKO An oval-shaped squash that looks like a light green cucumber, with a small white seed inside. Peel before using as a vegetable. Zucchini is a substitute.
CHRYSANTHEMUM LEAVES Enjoyed as a vegetable for their distinctive flavor and bright green color. Spinach leaves can be used as a substitute.
CILANTRO See CORIANDER.
CINNAMON True cinnamon comes from the fragrant bark of a tree native to Sri Lanka, and is lighter in color, thinner and more expensive than cassia bark, which is often sold as cinnamon. Powdered cinnamon is not a substitute.
CLOUD EAR FUNGUS Sometimes known as wood fungus, this crinkly greyish-brown dried fungus swells to many times its original size after soaking in warm water for a few minutes. They have little flavor but are prized for their texture.
CLOVES A small, brown, nail-shaped spice that emits a floral, spicy fragrance. Used in spice blends.
COCONUT Widely used in Malaysia, Singapore, Sri Lanka, Philippines, and Indonesia, not just for cooking but also for palm sugar, alcohol, housing, utensils, and charcoal. The grated flesh is often added to food; it is also squeezed with water to make coconut milk. To make fresh coconut milk, put the flesh of a grated coconut into a bowl and add ½ cup lukewarm water. Squeeze and knead for 1 minute, then squeeze handful by handful, straining into a bowl to obtain thick milk. Repeat the process with another 2½ cups of water to obtain thin milk. Combine both lots of milk for the coconut milk called for in this book, unless thick milk is specified. Coconut milk can be frozen; thaw and stir thoroughly before use.
The best substitute for fresh coconut milk is instant coconut powder, sometimes sold under the name "santan". Follow the instructions on the packet. Use tinned coconut cream for desserts and cakes.
CORIANDER Widely used in Asian cooking. Thais use the whole coriander plant: leaves, seeds, and roots. The roots are pounded together with garlic and black pepper to make a common basic seasoning. The seeds are roasted and ground for spice blends, and the leaves, known as cilantro or Chinese parsley, are eaten as a vegetable or used as a herb.
CORNFLOUR Known also as cornstarch, this fine white powder is widely used to thicken sauces. Mix cornflour with water, stir and add to the pan. Cook, stirring constantly for a few seconds, until the sauce thickens.
CUCUMBER Japanese cucumbers are short, roughly 1 in (2½ cm) in diameter, and have a sweeter flavor and better texture than large cucumbers. Lebanese cucumbers are an ideal substitute.
CUMIN Pale brown to black fragrant seeds that look similar to caraway. Frequently partnered with coriander in spice mixtures and curry pastes.
CURRY LEAF Sprigs of these small, dark green leaves with a distinctive fragrance are often used in Indian curries. A sprig is about 8-12 individual leaves. Dried curry leaves are milder, but a more satisfactory substitute than daun salam or bay leaves.
CURRY POWDER Various spices are ground together to form curry powders. Certain spice combinations are appropriate to different basic foods, and curry powders labelled "fish", "chicken" and other more specific dishes such as "korma" or "rendang" should be used for that particular purpose only. Curry powders are often blended with water to a stiff paste before being fried. For maximum freshness, store in a jar in the freezer.
DAIKON: see RADISH, GIANT WHITE
DAL Also "dhal". Refers to dried legumes, usually husked and split. Varieties include channa dal or Bengal gram, which resembles a small yellow pea and is often sold split; moong dal, a small green pea; urad dal or blackgram dal, which is sold either with its black skin still on or husked; masoor dal (salmon-pink lentils); toor, tuvar or arhar dal, a pale yellow lentil which is smaller than the Bengal gram; and kabuli channa or chickpeas, also known as garbanzos.
DASHI A stock made from dried kelp and dried bonito flakes, the basis of Japanese soups and sauces. Instant dashi granules (dashi-no-moto) are sold in glass jars in Japanese stores.
DAUN KESUM This pungent herb (Polygonum hydropiper) has long, pointed green leaves tinged with purple. Used in Vietnamese table salads and other Asian dishes.
DEVIL'S TONGUE A greyish-brown mass made from a starchy root known as devil's tongue (konnyaku). It is sold in plastic packets and used in Japanese soups, one-pot cookery and to make noodles called shirataki konnyaku. Keep refrigerated.
DRIED MANGO POWDER Dried and ground unripe mangoes, used to give a sour tang to some Indian dishes. If unavailable, use a squeeze of lemon juice.
FENNEL Only the seeds are used in Asian cooking. The spice smells of aniseed, and looks like a larger, paler version