Food of London. Kathryn Hawkins
Published by Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd.
with editorial offices at
61 Tai Seng Avenue, #02-12
Singapore 534167
Copyright © 2002
Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd.
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-4629-0975-9 (ebook)
Library of Congress
Card Number: 2002101478
Photo credits
All food and location photography by Ian Garlick. Additional photos Anthony Blake Photo Library: pp.12, 19, 24 & 33; Christopher Clunn Archives: pp.17, 22 & 23; Mary Evans Picture Library: pp.1 & 10; R. Tenison: pp.16 & 31; Robert Harding: pp.13, 14 & 15; Popperfoto: pp.8, 9 & 11.
Acknowledgments
The author, photographer and publishers would like to thank all the people involved in the production of this publication, especially all of the owners, managers, chefs and staff of the restaurants included in these pages. Special thanks to the staff of Thomas Goode for their help with the styling of the food shots and for the loan of china, cutlery, glassware, and linen for the photographic shoot; and to Harrods for their generous sponsorship of the London Larder food section.
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PRINTED IN SINGAPORE
THE FOOD OF
LONDON
A Culinary Tour of Classic British Cuisine
by Kathryn Hawkins
Photography by Ian Garlick
Additional Essays by Guy Dimond
Featuring recipes from the following restaurants:
| Balls Brothers Cafe Lazeez Fortnum &.. Mason The Fox &.. Anchor Harrod's Mr Wing Simpson's-in-the-Strand Snows on the Green | St. John The Avenue The Churchill Arms The English Garden The Ritz The Seashell of Lisson Grove Wiltons |
Contents
Introduction 4
A Culinary History of London 6
Feasts, Festivals, and Celebrations 13
Eels, Pie, and Mash 16
Dining Out in London 18
The London Larder 25
Basic Recipes 38
Appetizers 42
Soups and Salads 46
Seafood 52
Poultry and Game 72
Meat 80
Snacks and Savories 94
Cakes and Bakes 98
Desserts 104
Drinks 114
Sources and Restaurant Listings 118
Index 120
The stylish cafe-bar at The Bluebird Restaurant on London Kings Road.
Part One: Food in London
London offers a wide range of culture and cuisine
by Kathryn Hawkins
In the last two decades of the twentieth century, London was transformed from a city of bland and uninspired culinary offerings to one of the greatest food capitals in the world. London has always been one of the best-loved cities in the world for its history, arts, and architecture but its food had never been a selling point. Recently, however, a culinary revolution has occurred. From pubs to smart restaurants, young, innovative British chefs are reinventing national favourites, foreign chefs are flocking to the city from all over the world, and immigrants from the West Indies, Africa, the Subcontinent, and the Far East have brought with them new ingredients and cooking styles, all of which has resulted in London's restaurant scene becoming the envy of the world.
Such a cosmopolitan flavor is due not only to recent developments, as, from the Roman conquest of the British Isles in AD 43 onwards, London has already been a magnet for travelers and settlers from around the globe. Migrants have brought their own unique culture and food, giving London the distinctive global melting pot of flavors and influences it has today; cuisines from all over the world can be found here, from the more common Indian and Chinese, to Middle Eastern, Africa, and South American.
Of course, the traditional cooking of Britain must not be forgotten, and there are endless places in which the food lover can sample local food—from fish and chips—a wicked combination of succulent white fish deep-fried in crisp batter and served with juicy, thick potato chips (fries) with malt vinegar—to the pie and mash, jellied eels, cockles, winkles, and curry houses of London's East End.
Many restaurants and pubs serve traditional Sunday lunches of roast beef and Yorkshire pudding, roast pork with apple sauce, or roast lamb and mint sauce, usually followed by apple pie and custard. A person with a hearty appetite could well start the day with an English breakfast, which typically consists of bacon, sausages, black pudding, fried or poached eggs, mushrooms, tomatoes, baked beans, and fried bread or toast. Some of the smallest cafes offer the best value for money.
Most people's