Great Mountain Days in Scotland. Dan Bailey
Suilven’s second highest summit, Meall Meadhonach, looms above; a worn path leads up broken ground and rocky steps to an unavoidable rock band that bars access to the summit. This is climbed via a series of ledges and steep walls, and although there’s a choice of lines none are easy. From the east end of Meall Meadhonach another steep broken descent leads into another tight notch. The lower final peak, Meall Bheag, is the most intimidating of all, a leaning rock tower sprouting from the side of the mountain. Cross a short arête to reach the base of the tower. Make an unnerving step left, then pick your own line up airy ledges and tricky rock steps on the tower’s north flank – serious ground that needs a cool head. The broad summit marks the end of the major difficulties. A path descends its far end (steep at first, but only slightly scrambly) to reach the easy-angled shoulder below, where Options A and B rejoin.
Return 8km
Follow the high ground ESE to the minor top of Meall na Braclaich. Hold roughly the same line down boggy slopes to meet a sketchy path near the shore of Cam Loch at a burn. This climbs to a shoulder overlooking the loch, where the approach path is rejoined.
Canisp (left) and Suilven’s eastern summits from the ascent of Caisteal Liath
WALK SIX
Seana Bhraigh and Càrn Bàn
| Start/Finish | Car park near Corriemulzie Lodge (NH 327 952), 9km down a potholed track from the A837 at Oykel Bridge. Access by car is tolerated, but please park sensibly. Access may sometimes be curtailed at a gate at Duag Bridge, by Schoolhouse Bothy (NH 340 974); this adds roughly 2km each way to the walk-in. |
| Distance | 31.5km (19½ miles) |
| Ascent | 1350m |
| Time | 12hrs |
| Terrain | Easy access on an estate track. The ascent of Seana Bhraigh’s northeast ridge is straightforward, but the other ascent via Creag an Duine’s north ridge involves some exposed scrambling at grade 1/2. The boggy ground between Seana Bhraigh and Càrn Bàn is hard going, and needs good navigation in mist. |
| Maps | OS Landranger (1:50,000) 20; OS Explorer (1:25,000) 436 & 437 |
| Transport | Postbus service 123 from Lairg to Oykel Bridge – from here it’s a long walk-in |
| By Bike | For those who don’t want to knock the bottom out of their car the Corriemulzie Lodge track gives a fun cycle through the woods. Bikes can be taken as far as Coiremor/Magoo’s Bothy too, to save a couple of hours’ walking. |
| Accommodation | Carbisdale Castle YH (01549 421232) |
| Summits | Seana Bhraigh 927m (‘old height’); Càrn Bàn 845m (‘white cairn’) |
| Sleeping Out | Great camping in Seana Bhraigh’s Luchd Choire, and on the Coire Mòr col. Three excellent bothies are handy for this walk –The Schoolhouse (NH 340 975) is passed on the track to Corriemulzie Lodge, while the other two stand by Loch a’ Choire Mhòir at the mountain’s foot (the MBA-maintained Coiremor and, directly adjacent, Magoo’s Bothy, for which the RAF is responsible) (NH 305 888). Both have stoves. |
| Seasonal Notes | Seana Bhraigh is a serious hill in winter, with plenty of snow-holding potential; corrie rims may be heavily corniced. In full conditions the north ridge of Creag an Duine gives some climbing up to grade II; there are no other technical difficulties. River crossings in Strath Mulzie may be dicey in very wet weather. |
| Short Cuts | Most people will do Seana Bhraigh and Càrn Bàn as separate trips. From the Seana Bhraigh plateau the only straightforward descent route is the northeast ridge, and the mountain’s cliffs extend to the Coire Mòr col, making an early descent from here a little tricky too. |
Few places are as wild as the Freevater Forest, a deserted upland of bog and heather with the spacious feel that’s such a defining characteristic of Scotland’s far north. At its heart are Seana Bhraigh, famously one of the Munros furthest from a road, and Càrn Bàn, which holds a similar status among Corbetts. These plateau summits sprawl wide, their rolling flanks gouged by deep corries. The cliff-rimmed bowl of Luchd Choire is particularly impressive. Despite their remoteness the hills can be reached quite quickly on estate tracks, especially if bikes are used. Of several possible approaches the Strath Mulzie route described here is best, the upper glen dominated by the striking pyramid of An Sgurr. For anyone willing to get hands-on, the traverse of this sharp peak on the north ridge of Creag an Duine is the most exciting route onto Seana Bhraigh. A non-scrambler’s alternative is also given.
The Seana Bhraigh massif (left) and the distant hills of Assynt from Càrn Bàn
Approach 8km
From the signed car park the Strath Mulzie track continues, passing through the lodge grounds then following the Corriemulzie river upstream. About 4km beyond the lodge is a track junction; go left. Roughly 2km further on the track fords a side-burn (stepping stones), and soon after it fords the main river too. It then continues parallel with the opposite bank, climbing a little and then descending to the outflow of Loch a’ Choire Mhòir. The peak of An Sgurr now towers overhead. For the Coiremor/Magoo’s bothy complex stay with the track along the loch shore; for Seana Bhraigh leave the track here and ford the river at its shallowest point.
An Sgurr from the continuation ridge to Creag an Duine
On the hill 15km
Head SW, then follow the obvious burn uphill into the mouth of Luchd Choire (faint path), where the huge cliffs at its head are suddenly revealed. Now there’s a choice of route.
Option A The easy way. Head W, climbing quite steeply onto the northeast ridge of Seana Bhraigh. Follow this over a broad minor top and past a lochan for the final steeper ascent around the cliffs to the mountain’s summit cairn, perched on the rim.
Option B The spectacular way. Turn left for the relentless climb onto the north ridge of Creag an Duine. Now follow the crest, where brief airy sections of scrambling are encountered. Signs of wear generally indicate the best line, and the harder steps can be outflanked. The ridge leads quite steeply onto a short level arête, then up again to the sharp top of An Sgurr, one of the few mainland summits with an obligatory scramble. The col beyond is blocked by a bad step. The most direct descent of this goes via a loose and very exposed path just on the left flank, but it’s more sensible to backtrack briefly from An Sgurr and then contour across its eastern face at a lower level to the col. From here the scrambling rapidly eases, leading to the summit of Creag an Duine on the Seana Bhraigh plateau. Follow the edge of Luchd Choire over a domed minor top (point 906m) and on up to Seana Bhraigh.
Both options rejoin on the summit of Seanna Bhraigh. From here head to point 906m then skirt south of Creag an Duine, going E down a gentle slope into the shallow boggy scoop of Coire Mhic Mhathain (OK the bogs aren’t shallow). The next few kilometres are fraught with complex knolls and peaty hollows. The bogs prove very hard going, making it impossible to follow a straight line; navigation needs close attention in poor visibility. Stay just S of the high ground that rims Coire Mòr, heading roughly ESE across the wastes to reach a lochan on the rocky bealach above the head of the corrie. The whaleback of Càrn Bàn rises ahead; climb ENE across its sprawling slopes. Mercifully,