Walking the Corbetts Vol 2 North of the Great Glen. Brian Johnson
15min crossing.
Tel: 0800 066 5000 (UK only) www.calmac.co.uk
Lochaline has the ferry terminal, shop, snack bar and the Lochaline Hotel.
Lochaline Hotel Tel: 01967 421 657 www.lochalinehotel.co.uk
While on Mull you might like to visit the Island of Iona and take a boat trip to Staffa. Iona, a small island off the west coast of Mull, was a centre of Irish monasticism for four centuries and is today renowned for its tranquillity and natural beauty. Staffa is a remarkable little island off the west coast of Mull, best known for the famous Fingal’s Cave with the same structure of the basalt columns which are found in the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland.
ROUTE 1
Dun da Ghaoithe fort of the two winds
| Start | Scallastle Forestry Commission car park (NM 71260 37530) |
| Distance | 16km (10 miles) |
| Total ascent | 890m (2900ft) |
| Difficulty | The suggested ascent route up the E ridge is steep at the top and crosses a couple of rock bands which will be awkward to climb. It would be unwise to climb the E ridge in poor visibility when it would be difficult to see the weaknesses through the crags. The author would not want to descend this ridge because of the steepness and the difficulty of finding a route through the crags from above. Inexperienced or timid walkers, or experienced walkers in poor weather, should traverse to the N ridge and climb that ridge. Take care with the descent route in poor visibility as it is very steep on the left-hand side and there are crags to the S. |
| Time | 4hr 50min |
| Summits | Dun da Ghaoithe (766m, 2512ft), Mainnir nam Fiadh (754m) |
| Maps | OS Landranger 49 |
| Access | From Craignure head NW along the A849 and turn left to Scallastle Forestry Commission car park which is just before the Isle of Mull Hotel. |
| Note | If you prefer not to climb the top of the steep E ridge you could veer off to the right and contour to cross the Allt an Dubh-choire burn and climb to the N ridge which is easier. The main alternative is to climb and descend by the recommended decent route. |
Dun da Ghaoithe is an attractive hill rising above Craignure at the junction of Loch Linnhe, the Firth of Lorn and the Sound of Mull. The steep N-facing slopes with bands of rock on Mainnir nam Fiadh are particularly impressive.
Scallastle River in Coire Mor, Dun da Ghaoithe
The white-tailed eagle, commonly known as the sea eagle, is the largest and heaviest bird of prey in the British Isles, with a wingspan of 2.5m. Its diet includes fish, birds, carrion and small mammals. Until the late 19th century the white-tailed eagle was common in the N and W of Scotland. However, persecution during Victorian times led to the eagle being exterminated as a British breeding species by 1916. A re-introduction programme on the island of Rum from 1975–1985 has been so successful that the population has spread, and by 2011 15 pairs were nesting around Mull’s coastline. The white-tailed eagle attracts thousands of tourists to Mull each year and facilities have been developed to help them see the birds, generating millions of pounds for the local economy. www.white-tailed-sea-eagle.co.uk
Follow the track from the car park, ignoring a left-hand turn, until you reach the Scallastle River (55m, 69610 37160) with its impressive waterfalls. Cross the bridge, turn left and continue until the track recrosses the burn (110m, 69530 36720). Leave the track just before the bridge turning right up a faint, boggy path along the right-hand side of the burn to a gate in the deer fence (45min, 155m, 69370 36470). Continue up rough pasture along the right-hand side of the burn. When you reach a small tributary on the right (270m, 68760 36190), by two large erratic boulders, head NW up the hillside onto the Maol nan Damh ridge and gradually veer WSW towards Dun da Ghaoithe. After crossing some easy rock bands, the ridge steepens and reaches a short but difficult rock band, which can be easily crossed at a small gap (at 650m, 67430 36420). The final 100m of climb is up a mixture of scree and grass to reach the top rock band. The author climbed this in bad weather and found it uncomfortably steep and slippery. It is the sort of broken crag which probably has an easy way through, but only if you can see it clearly from below. After passing through this rock band it is easy going to the summit of Dun da Ghaoithe (2hr 30min, 766m, 67260 36210).
The summit is a big rockpile which is probably an ancient burial mound. Head S, veering SSE, to a saddle (700m) and up to the trig point and another rockpile on the summit of Mainnir nam Fiadh (2hr 50min, 754m, 67660 35340). The author’s GPS measurements suggest there is actually very little difference in height between Mainnir nam Fiadh and Dun da Ghaoithe.
Head ESE, veering E, down a narrow ridge. Be careful in mist as it would be easy to head down a ridge going off SE. The ridge broadens to reach a good track by the top communications mast (3hr 15min, 550m, 69190 35190). Follow the track, turning left by the lower communications masts (425m, 70290 35840) on Maol nan Uan and down to Achnacroish Farm where the track becomes a tarmac road which is followed down to the A849 (4hr 15min, 20m, 72670 34950). Turn left and it is now a 3km road walk through Craignure and back to the Scallastle car park (4hr 50min).
ROUTE 2
Fuar Bheinn cold mountain and Creach Bheinn mountain of spoil
| Start | Glen Galmadale (NM 86660 53090) |
| Distance | 15km (10 miles) |
| Total ascent | 1480m (4900ft) |
| Difficulty | The ridge, which is mainly grass with scattered crags, is relatively easy. However, the initial ascent and final descent are rough and steep, and accurate navigation will be needed in mist to avoid the dangerous crags which face Glen Galmadale. |
| Time | 6hr 35min |
| Summits | Beinn na Cille (652m, Graham), Fuar Bheinn (766m, 2511ft), Creach Bheinn (853m, 2798ft), Maol Odhar (794m), Meall nan Each (591m) |
| Maps | OS Landranger 49 |
| Access | From Strontian, follow the A861 E, then the B8043 S along Loch Linnhe. There is a parking area just E of the Glengalmadale River just E of Kingairloch. |
| Note | It would be possible to save a little time by ascending to the saddle between Beinn na Cille and Fuar Bheinn from Glen Galmadale and descending from Maol Odhar or the saddle between Maol Odhar and Creach Bheinn. |
Fuar Bheinn and Creach Bheinn are the two Corbetts on the impressive ridge which surrounds Glen Galmadale overlooking Loch Linnhe on the E side of Morvern. There are plenty of crags facing Glen Galmadale, but the most spectacular terrain is on the N slope of Creach Bheinn.
Loch Linnhe from Beinn na Cille
On 5 May 1964 a USAF McDonnell F101C Voodoo fighter-bomber was on a training flight from its base at RAF Bentwaters in Suffolk. While flying over the Scottish highlands at 28,000ft, the fighter exploded in mid-air, giving the pilot no opportunity to eject, and wreckage was strewn over Maol Odhar. On operations the Voodoo carried nuclear-tipped air-to-air missiles and was capable of carrying a thermo-nuclear bomb, giving rise to media speculation that the crash was caused by the explosion of nuclear warheads, but this was denied.
Follow the road across the bridge and SW to the forestry (86370 52920) before heading up a steep faint path along the forest edge. At the top of the forest it is best to veer well to the left to avoid the worst of the crags on the steep slope. When you reach the S ridge of Beinn na Cille turn right up the ridge. If you are doing the route in reverse and descending Beinn na Cille it would be easier to continue S to the B8043. Head easily to the summit of Beinn na Cille (1hr 30min, 652m, 85430 54190), then descend just left of N to a saddle (460m, 85310 54940) and climb N to the summit cairn on Fuar Bheinn, which appears to be on the highest of several tops