The South West Coast Path. Paddy Dillon
Go through a gate, then up to a junction, and turn sharp right. The path rises across a wooded slope, continuing across a slope of bracken, gorse, bilberry and heather, to reach a junction. The interesting ruins of the Burgundy Chapel lie downhill and off-route, but the Coast Path turns left up to a signpost and bench near a small car park on North Hill at 250m (820ft). There are good views across the Bristol Channel to South Wales, Swansea, Cardiff and the tiny islands of Steep Holm and Flat Holm.
Turn right as signposted for Bossington. The path is easy, flanked by bracken and brambles, followed by heather and gorse. A signposted junction is reached where the main route keeps left and the ‘Rugged Alternative Coast Path’ is signposted down to the right.
RUGGED ALTERNATIVE COAST PATH
(ADDS 1.5KM (1 MILE), 200M (655FT) OF ASCENT AND 30MINS)
The path is stony, then grassy, passing bracken, rowan, hawthorn and holly to reach a bench and a junction. Keep left along a clear path, later going through a kissing gate and down into a valley. Climb to pick up and follow a cliff path, enjoying splendid coastal views at Eastern Brockholes. Gradients are gentle, around 200m (655ft), except when another valley is crossed at Western Brockholes. Keep right at path junctions until the path bends left, with views across Porlock Bay. Turn right downhill to rejoin the main route on Bossington Hill.
The main route runs more or less level and later goes through a gate. Sheep and cattle graze enclosed grassy fields to the right. The path narrows among gorse bushes and goes through another gate, then becomes broader again. Cross a road-end serving the enclosed fields and continue along a track, eventually reaching 290m (950ft) on Selworthy Beacon, whose summit, just to the left, rises to 308m (1013ft).
Turn right as signposted around a corner of the enclosed fields and there are good views inland to Exmoor. After a slight rise, the descent starts gradually, taking a right fork for Bossington on Bossington Hill, rather than a clearer track heading to Lynch. The alternative route joins from the right here.
A steep path descends through a little valley towards the coast near Hurlstone Point (which has a lighthouse and can be visited by a short detour to the right). There are fine views along the shingle embankment of Porlock Ridge. The pebbles were heaped up 8000 years ago, but the ridge was breached by a storm in 1996, converting a freshwater marsh into a tidal saltmarsh.
Take the second turning left at the foot of the slope and follow a broad path to a gate. Walk along a woodland track that follows a small river upstream. Turn right to cross a footbridge and enter the lovely village of Bossington by way of a car park and toilets. The village is mostly owned by the National Trust, which maintains the cosy cottages and thatched roofs using traditional skills and materials. There is a B&B and a tea garden.
Looking back to Bossington Hill and Selworthy Beacon from Porlock Weir
Keep right to follow a road out of the village, signposted for Bossington Beach. Walk down the road and continue along a track. Turn left as signposted to follow a waymarked route through fields. The paths are grassy and clearly marked, keeping well away from the shingle ridge, tracing the edge of the saltmarsh. Bear in mind that the highest tides can flood the path. Signposted paths offer access to the village of Porlock if required. Since the shingle ridge was breached, farmland changed to saltmarsh, resulting in the death of many trees. However, other wildlife has flourished and this is a good birdwatching area.
The path passes a monument, followed by a stone barn, then turns right and heads towards Porlock Beach. Turn left to crunch along the pebbles, or use steps later to follow a road running to Porlock Weir. When the tide is fully out, the stumps of ancient trees – a submarine forest – are exposed on the beach.
PORLOCK AND PORLOCK WEIR
Porlock is a small, compact village clustered around the 12th-century church of St Dubricius. The tiny Chapel of the High Cross is located directly above the porch, reached by a short stairway. Down the road is Porlock Weir, where a tiny harbour features lock gates that can be closed to form a marina. It’s only a small settlement, featuring a number of craft workshops.
Facilities in Porlock include accommodation, campsite, post office, shops, toilets, pubs and restaurants. Transport links include buses to Minehead and Exmoor Coastlink buses to Lynmouth, Combe Main and Ilfracombe. For information contact Porlock Visitor Centre, West End, Porlock, Somerset, TA24 8QD, tel 01643 863150, [email protected]. Facilities at Porlock Weir include hotel accommodation, toilets, natural history centre, pubs, cafés and the same bus links as Porlock.
STAGE 2
Porlock Weir to Lynmouth
| Start | Ship Inn, Porlock Weir (SS 863 479) |
| Finish | Flood Memorial Hall, Lynmouth (SS 722 495) |
| Distance | 18km (11 miles) |
| Ascent | 1200m (3935ft) |
| Time | 6hrs |
| Terrain | An ascent through woodlands leads to the remote settlement of Culbone. More woodland walking, or alternative farm tracks, gives way to cliff paths and a gradual descent to Lynmouth. |
| Maps | OS Landrangers 180 & 181, OS Explorer OL9, Cicerone Vol 1, Harvey 1 |
| Refreshments | Pub just off-route at Countisbury. Plenty of choice in Lynmouth and Lynton. |
Walkers wishing to cover the distance from Minehead to Lynmouth as their first day’s walk on the South West Coast Path need to be very fit, or risk wearing themselves out and compromising themselves for the rest of the journey. The landscape between Porlock Weir and Lynmouth features wooded slopes obscuring views of the sea. An inland alternative passes farm pastures at a higher level. Facilities are limited, but in the event of difficulty, a detour to the main road at County Gate links with occasional bus services.
The Coast Path leaves Porlock Weir through a gap between the Ship Inn and Miller’s at the Anchor, signposted for Culbone. The narrow path climbs, goes through a gate, runs alongside fields, then links with a track leading up past a farm. Turn right along a narrow road to reach a handsome, thatched, double-arched toll house at Worthy. The left arch is for a toll road, while the right arch is for the Coast Path to Culbone.
A broad path climbs from the toll house and passes under two arches. Old landslips on the wooded slope are avoided on the way up to a complex track junction. A signpost points up a winding path, where the woods are rich and varied (although predominantly oak and holly). A descent along a good track leads to the little settlement of Culbone. Cross a stone bridge over a steam, then there is a fork. Turn down to the right if visiting the tiny Culbone Church, otherwise climb gently to the left. A junction is reached where the main route heads right and an alternative route – which should be followed if the main route is closed due to landslip or tree-fall – heads left.
ALTERNATIVE ROUTE
(ADDS 1.25KM (¾ MILE) BUT TAKES NO LONGER THAN MAIN ROUTE)
The path soon leaves the woods. Walk up through fields to reach a road, then walk down the road and climb past Silcombe Farm B&B. The lane