Walking in the Valais. Kev Reynolds
the stony path heading down-valley from the Gletscherstube, passing alongside several pools rimmed with cotton grass. When the path forks just above the Märjelensee, take the left branch following waymarks and cairns up the left-hand side of the valley mouth, scaling slabs and stone steps to gain a high point from which you have a stunning view of the Grosser Aletschgletscher’s upper reaches, flanked by Eiger, Mönch and Jungfraujoch. Turn to the left and you should be able to see the Weisshorn and Matterhorn in the distance across the unseen Rhône valley.
Now with the Aletschgletscher on display and the dramatic Aletschhorn cirque across the ice to the west, the path turns above the glacier and climbs, then eases, high above the left bank. This is a spectacular route with exciting views every step of the way. At the Roti Chumme junction (2369m) ignore the alternative path rising to the Bettmerhorn and continue on the lower path ahead, signed to Riederalp and Bettmeralp. The way undulates for a while before rising to another junction; this one with an option left to Hohbalm and Fiescheralp (it could be used as a shortcut back to the cablecar station if needed).
Remain on the lower path, which crosses some rocky areas to reach yet another junction at 2278m. Maintain direction and rise to yet another junction at 2290m. Leaving the trail to Riederalp, go up the slope to the Biel marker just 2mins or so ahead on the ridge between the glacier and the Bettmeralp plateau. Make the most of this location, for once you leave it there will be no more views of the Aletschgletscher, instead it will be the line of the Pennine Alps on the far side of the Rhône valley that will dominate.
Follow signs for the Bettmersee, and crossing the ridge with its tiny pools, you will soon look down on the lake and Bettmeralp itself as the way curves left. Do not descend all the way to the Bettmersee, but after losing some height you will come to a junction where a narrow path cuts ahead to the Furri Hut and Fiescheralp (the Bettmersee trail continues downhill).
On this grassy side of the ridge, cross the hillside losing a little height until you come to another junction at 2139m. Keep ahead (direction Fiescheralp), initially rising among juniper, then cross an open rolling pasture to pass beneath the Bettmerhorn gondola and a small lake below a chairlift. Come onto a dirt road/track near the Furri Hut (refreshments) at 2172m, and follow this to the complex of buildings at Fiescheralp where you can ride the cablecar down to Fiesch.
WALK 6
Gletscherstube Märjela (2373m) – Aletschgletscher – Riederfurka (2065m)
| Distance | 10km |
| Grade | 2 |
| Time | 3½hrs |
| Height loss | 308m |
| Location | West and southwest of the Gletscherstube |
Another exciting walk alongside the Aletschgletscher, this one finishes at Riederfurka above the Aletschwald where accommodation is available in a berghotel. One reason for including this route is that it provides an opportunity to continue next day to Belalp on the western side of the gorge below the glacier, by way of a remarkable 124m long suspension bridge (see Walk 7 below). If it is your plan to spend a night at Riederfurka, you are advised to phone ahead to book accommodation (details at the end of the route description).
The first part of this route is identical to that of Walk 5, but when you come to the path junction above the glacier where the left branch is signed to Hohbalm and Fiescheralp, take this option to join the Gratweg at Hohbalm (2490m). Gratweg means ‘ridge path’ which accurately describes the onward route, for it follows the moraine wall that separates the glacier from the Bettmeralp plateau and gives numerous fine views as it travels via Moosfluh (gondola lift station at 2333m) and Hohfluh (2227m – another cableway). Signs at junctions keep you on track, while views are not only of the glacier, but across the valley too, to the long line of the Lepontine and Pennine Alps, as the path snakes it way among alpenrose, juniper and low-growing trees.
After Hohfluh descend among trees to the saddle of Riederfurka in which you’ll find Berghotel Riederfurka (2065m, accommodation, refreshments) standing below Villa Cassel. The Berghotel Riederfurka has 14 beds and 60 dormitory places in a timber building nearby. It is open from June until mid-October (Tel 027 927 21 31). If you prefer to continue to Riederalp, which has more accommodation, bear left to cross the saddle and follow signs down the slope where the little resort will be reached in about 20–30mins.
WALK 7
Riederfurka (2065m) – Aletschwald – Hängebrücke (1599m) – Belalp (2094m)
| Distance | 7km |
| Grade | 2–3 |
| Time | 4½–5hrs |
| Height gain | 495m |
| Height loss | 466m |
| Location | West of Riederfurka |
Not only does this route descend through the lovely Aletschwald, it crosses the dramatic suspension bridge (Hängebrücke) which spans the Massa gorge below the Grosser Aletschgletscher, and climbs to Belalp via two grassy alps. It’s a very fine outing, but it’s a demanding one, and if you have trouble with vertigo, crossing the bridge could be a nightmare! But once again there are some glorious views to savour.
A sign outside Berghotel Riederfurka directs the way into the Aletschwald heading north. Wherever there are woodland junctions, signs are clear, and when you come to one where both directions indicate Hängebrücke, ignore the left branch and keep ahead. This takes an undulating course through the larchwoods and eventually reaches the Silbersand junction at 1920m, from where you gain a partial view ahead of the Aletschgletscher.
Turn left, and soon you’ll be making a steep descent of what is an old lateral moraine. Picking your way between trees and rocks, very fine views are gained now and again up to the glacier and to mountains across the valley. When you come to another junction where the Hängebrücke is signed as 15mins away, go up the slabs ahead to find the little Grünsee pool – a popular picnic site.
Bear right and follow the continuing path down to the suspension bridge, which is at an altitude of 1599m (about 1hr 45mins to here). The bridge is sturdily made, and despite being 124m from one end to the other, it barely moves as you cross 80m above the thundering glacial torrent.
On the walk from Riederfurka to Belalp the way crosses this 124m long suspension bridge
On the western side of the bridge, the path twists uphill between rocks and trees, then up gently angled slabs before you cross a small wooden footbridge over a stream and reach another signed junction. Turn left and walk up more slabs and through pretty wooded areas on the way to the alp pastures of Aletschji (1756m) with their small timber chalets, barns and tiny chapel. The way now climbs above the chalets, very steeply for a while, to gain another alp (Z’Nil) at 1840m. This has a few more huts and lovely views. With the Belalp chapel seen on the ridge ahead, the way rises to yet another fine viewpoint.
With a few zigzags the path rises to a steep ‘gully’ flanked by rocky walls. In this gully a path has been created with tight zigzags supported by stone-built walls. Above these it continues to rise along the left flank of the mountainside, and emerges at a walled vantage point near the chapel, with Hotel Belalp ahead. A wonderful panoramic view is won here, which not only includes the Aletschgletscher and the cotton-like Hangebrücke in the gorge far below, but the hotel at Riederfurka opposite, and across the Rhône valley to the Lepontine and Pennine Alps.
Hotel Belalp (2130m, accommodation, refreshments) looks across the valley from a prominent position high above the glacier gorge (Tel 027 924 24 22, www.hotel-belalp.ch). The original hotel was built as a 10-roomed wooden chalet in 1858. Provisions were brought up by mule from Brig (more than 1500m below), while women guests were carried up on a chaise by four men. An early Visitor’s Book contains the names of many Alpine pioneers, among them AW Moore who, in 1864, claimed to have walked there in a day from Zermatt. ‘Not too long,’ he wrote, ‘starting early.’
For dormitory accommodation and the cableway down to Blatten, follow the dirt road which passes along the right-hand side of