Cycle Touring in Spain. Harry Dowdell
behaviour of moped and scooter riders and have encouraged the wearing of crash helmets. Having said that, 3642 people were killed on Spanish roads in 1999. A quarter of those deaths occurred during the peak holiday months of July and August when most Spaniards take holidays in the country areas. Annual cyclist fatalities ranged from 78 to 122 per year during the 1990s.
Spain is hilly. If it were levelled off it would leave an immense plateau some 600m high, the altitude of its capital Madrid. The highest mountain in peninsular Spain is Mulhacén (3482m) in the Sierra Nevada, and the Sierra de Gredos to the west of Madrid climbs to over 2500m. The mountain passes can also be very high: in the Sierra Nevada the Veleta road reaches 3200m, while in the Sierra de Guadarrama the Puerto de Navacerrada is at 1860m. The roads are generally well graded (particularly the new ones), using distance not gradient to gain height gradually, so do not expect to have to push very often except where climbs are long. Expect roads in the mountains to climb 50 or 60m/km. There are none of the very steep gradients found in England’s Pennines or North York Moors.
With long relentless climbs come long descents, and those lasting 15 or 20km are quite common. Often hard persistent pedalling uphill is amply rewarded with panoramic vistas at the col and scenic revelations during the freewheeling descents. By contrast once away from the mountains the plains can be very flat, and even when undulating allow good, fast travelling.
Climate
Spain can be divided into three main climatic regions: Atlantic Ocean; Mediterranean Sea; the mountains and the plains. See Appendix 1 for temperature and rainfall figures.
The north and north-west are influenced by the proximity of the Atlantic Ocean, particularly in autumn and winter with low-pressure systems sweeping in. Summers are cooler, cloudier and wetter than the rest of the country; rainfall decreases further east. The north-west is known as Green Spain for a good reason; look at the figures for Finisterre and Santander to understand why.
Central Spain has low rainfall, but winter snow can linger on the mountains. Spring is the wettest season, and by midsummer the country has turned from green to brown and feels dry and parched. Summers are hot (and longer the further south you go) and winters can be bitingly cold, particularly in the north. Average midday temperatures for the summer months in Seville reach over 35°C and in Madrid over 30°C. However, while Seville basks in mild winter temperatures Madrid suffers from the bitter cold.
The south and east coasts are influenced by the Mediterranean climate, with lots of sunshine all year round, hot summers and mild winters. The driest area is Almería. It is wetter further north, and also west towards Gibraltar. Barcelona has a wetter autumn than winter.
Cerro Pelado, Sierra de Guadarrama (Route 5)
Deva valley from Invernales de Igüedri (Route 8)
Average temperatures hide the substantial day-to-day variations that can occur. In addition to the air temperature the effect of the heat from the sun should be taken into account. When the average daily maximum exceeds 25°C the heat can become overpowering and cycling uncomfortable. But remember that compared to walking or running cycling creates its own cooling breeze. The cooling effect kicks in above 12km/hr but does not remove the need for protection against sunburn. Only on stopping does the importance of shade become clear. Cycling in the mountains can be cooler; expect a drop of 1°C for every 100m gain in altitude.
When planning a trip think carefully about the best time of year. Depending on how much heat you like consider Andalucía and the south in autumn, winter and spring, Madrid and the centre in spring and autumn, and the north in summer. By chasing the sun it is possible to enjoy pleasant warm cycling all year round. Appendix 1 will help you decide when to go, and every part of Spain has a window of suitability. However, if things do get a little too hot try the following tactics.
Keep out of the sun whenever possible.
Wear light clothing that allows the movement of air over the body.
Acclimatise to the heat in advance: try some rides when it is hot at home. If this proves to be insuffient preparation try overdressing slightly to help train the body’s cooling mechanisms. A body acclimatised to the heat will start sweating at a lower temperature and sweat in greater volume. See ‘Eating and Drinking en route’, below, for information on how to keep hydrated. Heat stroke and exposure are dealt with in ‘Coping with extreme weather’.
You can always avoid the worst of the heat by taking a siesta. Siestas developed in rural Spain when workers conformed to the rhythms of nature: work would start early when it was cool, and as temperatures rose workers would stop to take a hearty meal and a couple of hours’ rest. Work would be finished off in the late afternoon and early evening when temperatures had dropped and the heat was out of the sun. Although this habit has become less popular in big cities, in rural areas and small towns shops still tend to close for much of the afternoon. There is a noticeable quietening down between 2 and 5pm, so find a shady spot and have a kip.
Spain is one hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time in winter and two hours ahead in summer. The transition from day to night is surprisingly quick. Even with good-quality lights night-time cycling is not fun, and as the sun sets the warmth also disappears. Try to finish cycling before sunset or at worst within 30min of it. Appendix 2 gives sunrise and sunset times across Spain. Please note that the times are based on a flat horizon and so may vary locally depending on whether you are in a valley or on top of a hill.
Holidays and Public Holidays
The Spanish take their summer holidays in July and particularly August. It’s a good time to visit Spanish cities, which are quieter than usual, with many businesses shutting up shop, although temperatures will be at their highest. Conversely the countryside becomes busier. Booking accommodation in advance during this period is highly recommended.
There are 10 National Holidays in Spain (see below). Public holidays falling on a weekend are not moved. When they fall midweek extra days are often taken to bridge the gap; such holidays are known as puentes. Public Holidays and particularly puentes see an exodus to the country. Accommodation fills up, making booking in advance advisable.
In addition every Provincial Government and most cities have their own holidays, and these are detailed in each cycle tour.
Public holidays in Spain
| 1 January | New Year’s Day |
| 6 January | Epiphany or Reyes Magos |
| variable date | Good Friday |
| 1 May | May Day |
| 15 August | Assumption of the Virgin |
| 12 October | National Day |
| 1 November | All Saints |
| 6 December | Día de la Constitución |
| 8 December | Immaculate Conception |
| 25 December | Christmas Day |
A Short History
One of the great joys of touring in Spain is discovering and enjoying the architecture, art and cuisine that have resulted from a number of influences that have flowed across the Iberian Peninsula during its turbulent history. The earliest Iberian people were Palaeolithic cave-dwelling invaders from France to the north who left behind them the cave paintings found in the western Pyrenees and around the Bay of Biscay. It is believed that these hunter-gatherers