Great Mountain Days in Snowdonia. Terry Marsh
Llydaw is divided by a causeway constructed in the 19th century. Formerly it was much lower than its modern-day counterpart and prone to flooding, necessitating a circuit of the north-eastern end of the lake to regain the path, or wading, a sometimes hazardous prospect not because of crocodiles or box jelly fish, but because to misjudge the depth in the middle could cause a seriously chilling sensation in one’s nether regions.
One more lake awaits, Llyn Teyrn, the Lake of the Ruler, occupying a shallow hollow scooped out by a retreating glacier. It is believed to be so named because a local prince had the sole right to net fish there. On its shores are the ruins of barracks used by miners, and legend has it that they were occupied by miners from Brittany who fled at the outbreak of the Napoleonic Wars at the beginning of the 19th century.
Press on past the lake, and soon the track will swing around the end of the Pen Bwlch y Moch ridge and runs northwards to the top of Pen y Pass.
Moel Siabod, Llyn Llydaw and the Miners’ Track
WALK FIVE
Moel Eilio Horseshoe
Moel Eilio and Foel Gron from Foel Goch
It is tempting to think of the four grassy hills that comprise the Moel Eilio Horseshoe as an alternative to Snowdon or the Glyders, something to do when the higher hills are in cloud. But in truth they have huge merit of their own, and should be on everyone’s menu. Springy turf underfoot, leg-swinging freedom, not insignificant but not over-demanding undulations, a surprising display of minor cliffs, and ever-changing views make these hills an experience to linger over, especially on a warm day when all the world and his dog are bound elsewhere. Under snow, they make an excellent round on which to hone winter walking skills.
The Route
Leave Llanberis by walking up Ffordd Capel Goch, the road that leads to the youth hostel. At Pen y Bont, turn right into Fron Goch, and then, at the top of a rise, turn left towards the Plas Garnedd Care Centre. Once beyond the centre, the gated lane climbs steadily through farmland dotted with numerous derelict buildings. The final building, Maen-llwyd-isaf, with Moel Eilio and the valley of the Afon Goch rising on the left, is where the lane surfacing ends and a rough track takes you on upwards to a ladder-stile.
Once over the stile, bear left beside a wall. The track takes you past the site of Dinas Osian, an Iron Age settlement and hill fort, although there is little to see of it today. Continue to a gate across the track not far from the top of the ascent at Bwlch y Groes, and through the gate continue a little further as far as a branching grassy vehicle track (SH561598). Leave the Bwlch y Groes path here, and climb easily onto the long and broad northern ridge of Moel Eilio, which is a delight to roam, the track soon merging with another that has climbed from Bwlch y Groes. The path gives lovely views to the west of the Lleyn Peninsula and Yr Eifl (The Rivals), swinging round across Caernarfon and across Anglesey to Holyhead Mountain.
ROUTE INFORMATION
| Distance | 13.8km/8½ miles |
| Height gain | 990m/3250ft |
| Time | 4–5 hours |
| Grade | energetic |
| Start point | Llanberis |
| Getting there | There are multiple parking areas along the shores of Llyn Padarn, some offering the temptation to paddle when you should be elsewhere |
| Maps | (Harvey Superwalker) Snowdonia and the Moelwynion; (Ordnance Survey) OL17 Snowdon/Yr Wyddfa |
| After-walk refreshment | Plenty of refreshment opportunity in Llanberis (including the almost legendary Pete’s Eats), but maybe call in at the 17th-century Pen y Ceunant Isaf licensed tea garden and café on the way down. |
Snowdon Mountain Railway
Eventually, as you approach the top section of Moel Eilio, you encounter a fence. Walk alongside this, the path taking you finally to a ladder-stile not far from the summit. Over the stile, bear right beside the ongoing fenceline and soon reach the large stone-built shelter on the summit. The view, as might be expected, is expansive, embracing the Nantlle Ridge and Mynydd Mawr.
Moel Cynghorion
The continuation from Moel Eilio follows a fenceline descending steeply in roughly a southeasterly direction. Follow the fence down to a stile at a wall corner beyond which lie the twin summits of Foel Gron and Foel Goch. From this summit there is a stunning view of Cwm Dwythwch and its lake, and then, after a dip, a final pull leads to a ladder-stile near a fence corner on Foel Goch. The summit is singularly undistinguished, other than by a tiny, low-lying cairn (if you can find it).
Return to the ladder-stile, and then take to a narrow path descending very steeply to Bwlch Maesgwm, a high mountain pass, from where a broad track (an ideal escape route if needed), heads towards Llanberis.
At the pass, cross a stile/gate and turn left beside a fence and wall following a clear path rising in easy stages to the top of Moel Cynghorion (The Hill of the Councillors). The top of the mountain is flat and grassy, and conceals a small, flattened cairn, as well as a few small ponds.
The name Moel Cynghorion bears the legend that when Edward I conquered Wales and started to build his castles, he tried to trick the Welsh bards into coming to an Eisteddfod, where he would have killed them. But they got wind of his plot and ran away to this lonely outpost; quite what they did when they got here is not disclosed, however.
Cross a ladder-stile on the summit fence, and head off in a northerly direction. There is no path to follow, and progress is what you make of it, descending steep grassy slopes, but trending a little to the left lower down. The descent is not difficult, but does require attention to placement of feet. Your target is a ladder-stile (SH584574) due south of Helfa-fawr, a renovated building, neither of which is visible until the last moment.
Over the stile, keep to the right of the building to locate its rough access track, and then follow this out, soon crossing the Afon Arddu, with waters bright and sparkling. The track leads past derelict farm buildings, and on to Hebron Station, where you intercept a narrow lane that serves Hafodty Newydd.
All that remains is to follow the lane back to Llanberis, passing first under the course of the Snowdon Mountain Railway, and then crossing the end of the Llanberis Path to the summit. Before reaching Llanberis, you also pass Pen y Ceunant Isaf, a licensed café, ideally placed to entice thirsty walkers to rest a while, and open all year.
Continue down the lane to the edge of Llanberis, and finally arrive close by the Mountain Railway station, and the start of the walk.
On the summit of Moel Cynghorion, looking towards Snowdon
GLYDERAU
On the cantilever, Glyder Fach (Walk 6)
The summit of Glyder Fach (Walk 6)
Black’s Picturesque Guide to North Wales, published in 1857, comments that ‘in savage grandeur the Glyder is not surpassed by any scene in Wales’. A radical observation, but still quite valid.