Mountaineering in the Moroccan High Atlas. Des Clark
Snakes, scorpion and a particular type of venomous spider locally called ikhikhi are present, more so from late spring to early autumn. The good news is that snakes generally move off at the sound of approaching feet and are not usually found in cold snowy environments! The same is true for scorpions, however they can often be lurking under a rock near a stream, particularly in the spring and summer months. The ikhikhi spider is particularly venomous, but again is not that common. To minimize the chance of any encounters when camping, zip up tent doorways and be very wary of moving big stones.
A baby lizard
When to Go
While the vast majority of routes in the guide can be undertaken in the late spring and autumn, the emphasis is on winter ascents (from early November to mid-April). If you are flexible in terms of timing for your visit, then you can keep an eye on conditions by checking online or telephoning some of the mountain refuges for specific information.
Generally the first snows of the winter fall any time from late October to the end of November – sometimes earlier, rarely later. The greatest volume of snow is on the ground in early March, when the weather is generally becoming more settled – although late winter snowfalls can result in an extended season. Once the winter season has started, snowfall can happen any time, although on average it is about every second or third week that the weather closes in for a few days. Early to mid-March sees a more settled period, with spring-like conditions developing in the lower southern valleys. Mid- to late April sees the start of snowmelt, particularly on the southern slope aspects, but it is not normally until late May to early June that the more sheltered north-facing slopes and gullies begin to lose their winter raiment.
If you are considering routes that require mule support, note that the high traverses between the Tazaghart (Lepiney) refuge and the Toubkal refuges over Tizi Aguelzim, and access to Lac d'Ifni over Tizi Ouanoums, are not generally snow free until mid-June.
Multi-day ridge traverses will require some access to water for drinking and possibly cooking in. Melting snow is the normal way of getting water on these ridges – otherwise long descents and reascents may be required to find a stream. There is therefore a limited season for multi-day ridge routes before snow on the north-facing slopes melts away altogether.
Short days in December and January mean long nights, which are accentuated if you are camping or bivvying, but other than during the Christmas/New Year season these are quiet months. February sees the arrival of ski-tourers in ever increasing numbers in the Toubkal region and, to a lesser extent, in the Mgoun massif. Easter is particularly busy, with the two Toubkal refuges often being booked out by French and Spanish parties. The Mgoun region is also popular at this time. Other areas are quiet year-round.
Mgoun ridge in summer
Counting the walnut harvest
Summer sun-baked rock may be idyllic in the more northern parts of the globe, but in the High Atlas can be very unpleasant. Similarly, the summer months of July and August can generate such heat in the plains and the cities of Marrakech and Taroudant that it can stifle all desire to move. This is a good time for visiting Ait Bougammez and making high-level journeys around the Tarkeddit plateau, which at 2900m is high enough to feel cool even during these summer months – particularly if a strong afternoon wind develops, which is not unusual. The author has been trekking in mid-August in this area, daily enduring heavy hail storms and cold winds, while people in Marrakech have been lounging in the shade by the pool!
September and October are good times to visit for snow-free ascents of peaks. However, this is the walnut-harvest season, and the remoter villages – which are heavily dependent on this cash crop – may be reluctant to see their men leave the harvest to assist you with mule support.
Festivals and holidays
Morocco celebrates a number of world, political and religious holidays. The dates on which these holidays fall can be found on internet sites such as www.worldtravelguide.net.
World holidays such as New Year and May Day affect little in the way of street life. Banks and offices are closed, but apart from that you won't notice much difference.
Political holidays, such as Independence Day, the king's birthday and the Green March, mean a lot of flags in the streets, and more offices and some shops closed, but again life continues pretty much as normal, particularly in the mountain villages.
Religious holidays, other than the end of Ramadan (Eid el-Fitr) or the killing of the sheep (Eid el-Kbir or Eid al-Adha), will again pass pretty much unnoticed. The two Eids will affect your trip, as may the fasting month of Ramadan (see box for the dates of these religious events).
The Islamic calendar, to which all the religious festivals are linked, is lunar based. This means that religious holidays are approximately 11 days earlier each year. Again the dates of these holidays can be found on the internet. A word of warning, however – although the dates for the two Eids appear to be set, there is always a degree of uncertainty on the ground of the exact dates, because Morocco is one of the last countries in the world that relies on an actual moon sighting rather than on a moon calendar. If the moon isn't or can't be seen, then the holiday is deferred to the next day.
Approximate Dates of Main Islamic Religious Festivals (2011-2015)
2011
Ramadan begins 1 Aug
Eid-el-Fitr (end of Ramadan) 30 Aug
Eid-al-Adha 6 Nov
2012
Ramadan begins 20 July
Eid-el-Fitr 19 Aug
Eid-al-Adha 26 Oct
2013
Ramadan begins 9 July
Eid-el-Fitr 8 Aug
Eid-al-Adha 15 Oct
2014
Ramadan begins 28 June
Eid-el-Fitr 28 July
Eid-al-Adha 4 Oct
2015
Ramadan begins 18 June
Eid-el-Fitr 17 July
Eid-al-Adha 23 Sept
Ramadan
Ramadan is the Islamic month of fasting, and Muslims are required to refrain from eating, drinking and smoking from dawn to sunset. Regardless of whether you are trekking with a commercial group or organising the trip yourself, you should, out of respect for Moroccans, avoid eating, smoking or drinking in public places during the day. Visitors often wonder about the effects of Ramadan and whether it is wise to go trekking or climbing at this time.
The village of Islane (Routes 1-3)
If you are travelling with a large commercially organised party, then Ramadan will probably have very little effect on your trip. You may be aware of the local staff getting up early (before sunrise) to eat and drink and then gathering together with other Moroccans at sunset to drink askif or harira (soup) and eat dates and some bread. In addition, you'll observe them not eating, drinking or smoking during the day. As your in-country travel will be pre-organised, minibuses should be there for you at the appointed time.
A self-organised trip will be a different experience, and there are a number of factors to consider.
Are you undertaking long routes that will exhaust local support staff who are unable to drink during the day?
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