Walking in Scotland's Far North. Andy Walmsley
before turning south to skirt Loch Eriboll (single track again).
After Eriboll, two-lane road climbs abruptly over a ridge to descend rapidly to a bridge at the head of Loch Hope (junction with minor road from Altnaharra). Another climb now leads up and over The Moine to the Kyle of Tongue.
The old road (single track) loops south around the head of the Kyle (still worth driving for its intimate views of Ben Loyal), but the new road spears straight across the shallow kyle on the Kyle of Tongue Crossing, which is more of a causeway than a bridge and leads quickly to the village of Tongue. The village has hotels, a basic campsite, shops, toilets and a 40-bed youth hostel (on the shore of the Kyle, next to the crossing).
A836 from Bonar Bridge to Bettyhill
59 miles (95km)
Winter access: likely to be closed in snowy weather
Remote, mainly single-track A-road. A fast stretch of two-lane road leads from Bonar Bridge to Lairg (all amenities), but the road then becomes single track and remains so all the way to Tongue, a distance of 36 miles (58km). However, the route is mainly over quite open terrain and progress is easy.
Kyle of Tongue crossing and Ben Loyal
Undulating through plantations of conifers (Dalchork Forest), the road gradually gains height to pass the Crask Inn in open country just before the watershed. The road then descends into the shallow trough of Strath Vagastie (start of Ben Klibreck ascent) to eventually reach the scattered buildings at Altnaharra (hotel, post office) at the head of Loch Naver.
This is an important crossroads. The B873 heads east from here through Strath Naver, making a shorter route to Bettyhill (see below), while to the west a minor road goes via Alltnacaillich, at the foot of Ben Hope, to emerge on the A838 at Hope Lodge.
The A836 continues north, with Ben Loyal in view ahead, to traverse the west shore of Loch Loyal (Beinn Stumanadh group overlooking the opposite shore). At the north end of the loch, the road climbs moderately over a minor watershed, then descends to Tongue with improving views to the west.
Just south of the village, a branch road on the L provides a short-cut to Tongue village centre and the west, but the main road continues north to meet the A838 just above the village. The Durness-Bettyhill route has priority at this junction, but the road number A836 continues, now two lane (with two short stretches of single track), to Bettyhill and the border of the guide area.
B873 from Altnaharra junction to A836 near Bettyhill (GR708575)
20 miles (32km)
Winter access: sheltered, so usually open
Single track B-road. Commences with a scenic traverse of Loch Naver's north shore (many picturesque parking places) before turning north into Strath Naver – a very colourful and pleasing valley. The road makes easy progress throughout, passing a junction with the B871 to Kinbrace at Syre (11 miles from Altnaharra), and reaches the A836 at Leckfurin, just south of Bettyhill.
It is worth mentioning that the River Naver carries quite a large volume of water and has only easy rapids. To the author's untrained eye it would appear to be a prime candidate for kayaking or river rafting. From Loch Naver to Invernaver (the mouth of the river) is a distance of some 16 miles (26km).
Minor road from Altnaharra to Hope Lodge via Alltnacaillich
20 miles (32km)
Winter access: often closed by snow
Single-track road. Whilst having no major difficulties, this road is narrow and, in parts, rough. It is the most convenient access road for the ascent of Ben Hope. At Allnabad, 8½ miles or 14km from Altnaharra, is the junction with the unsurfaced Bealach nam Mierleach, or Robber's Pass, a possible mountain bike route, passing Gobernuisgach Lodge and emerging at West Merkland (start of Ben Hee ascent). A branch route from this goes via Glen Golly to Strath Dionard (by Foinaven) with a further branch path crossing the Arkle/Meall Horn col to reach the bothy at Lone, on the shore of Loch Stack. These last two routes are, however, not mountain-bike friendly, judging by the anti-cycling notices erected by the estate.
East Coast Road (A9) from Dornoch Bridge to Dunbeath
47 miles (75km)
Winter access: always kept open
A major two-lane trunk road, the A9 can be busy in summer, but usually makes for fast progress up the east coast. It should be said that this is the most scenic stretch of the A9, the section beyond Helmsdale having some steep climbs and descents with excellent sea views.
Am Buachaille and Sandwood Bay, Route 62
Using the Guide
The walks in this book are grouped firstly under geographical area headings, and secondly under mountain massifs. The majority of walks described are ascents of peaks or mountain traverses, and as such they are quite exacting. They involve rough terrain, and the text of the guide assumes the reader has a reasonable level of physical fitness and some experience of mountainous country.
Sketch maps are provided throughout the guide, but these are intended only to provide an overview of the route. Anyone undertaking the routes should use Ordnance Survey Landranger maps in conjunction with the book (see ‘Maps’, below). Details are given at the start of each route of the relevant sketch map and Landranger map.
It is difficult to attempt to grade the routes and estimate a reasonable time allowance for their completion. Grading can be a very subjective thing. For example a super-fit hill-runner may regard the rough ascent of Arkle as an easy outing, while an unfit person would find even the walk to the Eas a Chual Aluinn waterfall ‘strenuous’. Similarly, time allowances are affected by differences in an individual's level of fitness or approach (lightweight or comprehensively equipped), competence on the terrain, the weather and a multitude of other factors.
For this reason neither grades nor times are given for the routes, and instead figures are provided for distance (measured from OS Landranger maps) and overall height gain (calculated from the same maps). Any competent hill-walker should be able to estimate the time required based on these figures, the route description and their own individual factors. A note of caution, though – Scottish terrain often means that more time is required than for a route of similar distance/ascent in, for example, the English Lake District, and it is also worth remembering that the distances quoted are map-measured kilometres, which are often a little shorter than kilometres actually walked on the ground. If you are not experienced on Scottish routes, add an allowance – say 20% – onto your estimated time. All the figures provided for distance and height gain are for round trips (returning to starting point) unless otherwise stated.
Maps
Ordnance Survey Landranger sheets 9, 10, 15, 16 and 17 amply cover most of the area of the guide, but sheet 19 is required for Ullapool and Ardmair. The John o'Groats corner of the far north is covered on sheets 11 and 12, but this is outside the area covered by this guide. Visitors to the far north should be equipped with these maps, and the route descriptions in the book are designed to be used in conjunction with the relevant OS maps.
Essential Equipment
When travelling or hill-walking in the far north, the equipment requirements are much the same as for any other part of Britain.
Waterproof clothing is an obvious essential at any time of year – preferably made from a breathable material, as summer conditions can often consist of relatively warm but wet weather, which can be very sticky in a non-breathable cagoule.
For any serious walking on these hills, my recommendation would be for leather boots with gaiters, unless the weather and terrain are very dry (rare – especially the latter). Fabric boots with a waterproof membrane tend to be very hot and are not as durable as leather ones. If wearing lightweight fabric boots or if hill-running, expect to have wet feet for much of the time!