The Swiss Alps. Kev Reynolds
glacial remnants immediately above the hut, which occupies the site of a one-time alp. From it a path descends steeply into the valley where a footbridge offers a goodly choice of walker’s routes. You could cross that bridge to a little buvette (the Chalet du Glacier) in view of the Glacier du Trient, then climb first alongside, then above the glacier to reach the rocky gateway of the Fenêtre d’Arpette (2665m) which gives access to Val d’Arpette and Champex described in the Pennine Alps chapter (2:1); or you could turn left by the buvette along a near-level footpath that accompanies the Bisse du Trient across a wooded slope to Col de la Forclaz (see box). Or you could do neither of these things, and instead of crossing the footbridge simply turn left and wander downvalley between pastures to Le Peuty and Trient.
On the east side of the valley the Fenêtre d’Arpette is of course a crossing for mountain walkers, while the 1526m Col de la Forclaz carries the road from Martigny after labouring through vineyards and up a series of hairpins out of the Rhône valley. Beside the road on the col stands the Hotel du Col de la Forclaz (35 beds, 40 dorm places plus camping; www.coldelaforclaz.ch) almost opposite the TMB path that goes to Champex via the Bovine alp.
Having gained the col from the northeast, the road now slants down into the Vallée du Trient and bypasses both Le Peuty and neighbouring Trient on its way to Le Châtelard and the French border. For those who plan to stay overnight in the valley, however, simple gîte accommodation is available at the Refuge du Peuty (40 dorm places, open June to mid-Sept; tel 027 722 09 38), while in Trient itself the Relais du Mont Blanc has 80 places (open all year; tel 027 722 46 23), with another 21 dormitory places to be found at the Gîte La Gardienne, which is also open all year (www.largardienne.ch). (For further information go to www.trient.ch)
Although there are a few local valley walks, in summer Trient is mostly used as an overnight halt by trekkers passing through. There are no climbs easily accessible from the valley, for the main peaks of interest are approached from huts such as the Cabane du Trient under Pointe d’Orny at an altitude of 3170m, and the shortest route to that takes 5½–6hrs from the village. But in winter the upper Vallée du Trient can be explored on snowshoes and cross-country skis, while low-key ski tours are promoted on the Croix de Fer above Col de Balme, the Pointe Ronde massif southeast of the Col de la Forclaz and, of course, on the Plateau du Trient and Aiguille du Tour. The classic Haute Route ski tour avoids the Vallée du Trient by descending from Cabane du Trient into the Val d’Arpette by way of either the Fenêtre du Chamois or Col des Encandies, but in summer trekkers following the Walker’s Haute Route pass through the valley by a choice of routes, as do those tackling the ever-popular Tour du Mont Blanc. In addition, a third multi-day trek comes this way, intent on making a complete tour of the valley. This is the Tour de la Vallée du Trient.
THE BISSE DU TRIENT
Flowing from the foot of the Trient glacier to Col de la Forclaz, the Bisse du Trient is just one of more than 200 similar channels created throughout Canton Valais in order to carry glacial water sometimes a considerable distance to irrigate cultivated farmland, often in the Rhône valley. The oldest are believed to have been made in the 12th and 13th centuries; some channels being hewn from bare rock, others using hollowed tree trunks to bridge sections impossible to excavate; many were made by prisoners used as forced labour. Footpaths were invariably created alongside each bisse to facilitate its maintenance, but the track alongside the Bisse du Trient had rails laid on it in the 19th century to carry ice blocks from the glacier to the hotel at the col.
In summer Trient is a major overnight halt for countless trekkers
This is a very fine walking tour which crosses no fewer than six cols and picks out virtually all the scenic highlights of the district. Since some of the cols hang onto their snow cover until quite late, it should not be tackled before about mid-July, by which time conditions ought to be fairly settled. The route is normally walked in a counter-clockwise direction.
Day 1: Begin at Col de la Forclaz where a path strikes uphill heading north to make the ascent of Mont de l’Arpille (2085m), over whose summit the way then descends to the Arpille alp, then much more steeply down to the Gorge du Trient which is crossed more than 1400m below Mont de l’Arpille. A steep climb out of the gorge leads to Salvan at the end of a 6–6½hr day.
Day 2: Although this is a much shorter stage (3hrs), it’s uphill all the way. Leaving Salvan along the narrow road that works its way to the Vallon de Van, it concludes by taking the old mule-path from the campsite at the roadhead. This goes steeply uphill to the Salanfe basin in full view of the Dents du Midi where the night is spent at the Auberge de Salanfe.
Day 3: This third stage is similar to the first day’s trek on the Tour du Ruan, in that it begins at Salanfe and finishes at the Vieux Emosson refuge. However, after crossing Col d’Emaney, our route descends into the head of the Vallon d’Emaney, then goes for the more direct Col de Barberine instead of Col de Fenestral, and descends to Lac d’Emosson with the Mont Blanc massif in view for much of the way. After crossing the dam at its southern end, the way then follows the narrow service road up to Refuge Vieux Emosson (5½–6hrs).
Day 4: Skirting the shore of Lac du Vieux Emosson, the continuing Tour de la Vallée du Trient is a 4hr stage that visits the site of the dinosaur footprints. It then crosses the 2645m Col de la Terrasse and descends past the Chalets de Loria to Vallorcine, the first village on the French side of the border.
Day 5: Leaving Vallorcine for the final stage of the trek, begin by following the cog railway upvalley towards Col des Montets, then break out of the valley with a 600m climb to the grass saddle of Col des Posettes with its big view of the Aiguilles du Chardonnet and Argentière, Verte and Drus, and of Mont Blanc itself. The way then loops round to Col de Balme to re-enter Swiss territory, but instead of plunging straight down into the Vallée du Trient, it adopts the path that remains high before cutting round the Remointse spur to Refuge Les Grands. From here you descend to the valley below the Trient glacier, cross the glacial torrent and finish the trek by a gentle stroll alongside the Bisse du Trient that leads directly to Col de la Forclaz (a 5½–6hr stage).
ACCESS, BASES, MAPS AND GUIDES
Access
Val de Morgins By minor road west of Monthey in the Rhône valley. By train from Aigle or Monthey to Troistorrents, then bus to Morgins.
Val d’Illiez As for Val de Morgins, but branch left at Troistorrents. By train from Aigle or Monthey to Champéry.
Vallon de Susanfe On foot from Champéry or the Salanfe basin.
Rhône Valley By train from Geneva to Monthey or St-Maurice via Lausanne. The postbus runs a service from St-Maurice to Mex and Vérrosaz.
Vallée du Trient By train (Mont Blanc Express) from Martigny through the Trient gorges to Finhaut and Le Châtelard on the French border. By bus from Martigny to Col de la Forclaz, Trient and Le Châtelard.
Valley Bases
Val de Morgins Morgins
Val d’Illiez Troistorrents, Val d’Illiez, Champéry
Vallon de Susanfe Cabane de Susanfe
Rhône Valley St-Maurice, Mex
Vallée du Trient Salvan, Les Marecottes, Finhaut, Trient, Col de la Forclaz
Information
Chablais Tourisme SA, Case postale 1429, CH-1870 Monthey 2 (Tel