Mini Nonya Favourites. Lee Geok Boi

      P E R I P L U S E D I T I O N S

       Singapore • Hong Kong • Indonesia

      The Nonya Kitchen

      'Fusion' before the phrase was even coined, Nonya dishes successfully marry Southeast Asian herbs and spices with Chinese ingredients in a cuisine that is the culinary legacy of the Straits Chinese communities of Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia.

      The Straits, or Peranakan, Chinese trace their roots to the 15th century when predominantly male Chinese migrant traders settled in Southeast Asia and married local women. The male offspring of these unions were often repatriated to China for an education before returning to their newly adopted lands. The daughters, on the other hand, remained and were raised by their mothers before being married off within the community to forge important ties between families. In time, a distinct sub-ethnic group evolved with its own language, dress and, of course, kitchen. The men folk became known as 'Baba' and the women 'Nonya', the female term also lending itself to the glorious cuisine that ensued.

      Nonya cuisine reflects the cultural mix of the community: from Malay cuisine were adopted ingredients such as belacan, chillies, lemongrass, galangal and turmeric, and, from Chinese cuisine, a fondness for pork and the requisite styles of food preparation. Later still, more ingredients were incorporated into the cuisine from Indian, Thai and Portuguese Eurasian kitchens.

      In the past, there was enough wealth and leisure within the community for the women to devote their time to culinary arts and the preparation of elaborate meals. Although the richer Straits Chinese households employed domestic help, which made the grinding of spices, squeezing of coconut milk and pounding of belacan relatively easy, Nonyas of all social classes were not above enjoying a good gossip in the kitchen while preparing the basic ingredients essential to their cuisine.

      Today, the food blender replaces the pestle and mortar and grinding stone in many Nonya households. The only exception to this is in the preparation of Sambal Belacan, a highly aromatic condiment that transforms simple fried fish or plain vegetables into something tantalizing— the heady aromas and earthy flavours of freshly pounded Sambal Belacan cannot be recreated by simple blending.

      The curries, sambals, soups and braised pork dishes keep well and often have to be left to stand for an hour or so after cooking to allow the flavours to develop. Except in the one-dish noodle meals such as Mee Siam or Laksa, Nonya food is usually served with plain rice and eaten communally as with Chinese food. However, with the exception of soup, which is served individually with a soup spoon, Chinese-style, the traditional way to eat Nonya curries and sambals is Malay-style, by hand.

      How to reduce preparation times Although packaged spice pastes have given busy households an approximation of traditional Nonya food, these ready-to-use spice concoctions cannot compare to freshly prepared, homemade spice pastes. To make Nonya food a quick and easy affair, simply prepare a big batch of spice pastes and keep them frozen in ready-to-cook batches—even ground dried red chillies freeze well. Just don't forget to label the boxes clearly to prevent confusion later on.

      How to thicken curries To thicken and enrich a curry or sambal without adding to the spiciness, candlenuts are often added. A good substitute is macadamia nuts or raw almonds.

      Glossary

      Asam Gelugor: The dried slices of the sour fruit, garcinia atnoviridis, are sometimes used in place of tamarind pulp in Nonya dishes. If asam gelugur is not available, substitute with tamarind pulp.

      Belacan: Shrimp paste is a quintessential ingredient in Nonya and Malay food. It comes in blocks and can vary from soft to firm and be a lurid pink or a dark gray-brown colour. It is now also available bottled in powder form. Although used in small amounts, the quality of the belacan affects the final flavour of the dish. Many Nonyas will swear by Penang belacan which is also my personal preference. If you are uncertain of the quality of your belacan, for example, if you think it smells rather strong, use less rather than more. Not enough is better than too much to prevent an imbalance in the flavours of your spice paste. The traditional way to measure belacan was by slices, but the best way to get a uniform measure is by spoonfuls. To measure, press some belacan into the measuring spoon and level off with a knife.

      Cai Xin: A cousin of Chinese kale, cai xin, or choi sum as it is often known as, is one of the most versatile of Chinese greens. The easier it is to pierce the base of the stem with a fingernail, the more tender the vegetable.

      Candlenuts: A round, cream-coloured waxy nut, often known by its Malay name, buah keras. Candlenuts are added to Nonya dishes for both flavour and texture, as they help to thicken a sauce.

      Coconut Milk: Coconut milk is another essential Nonya ingredient. Fresh is best but UHT coconut milk works well for practically all Nonya dishes where the coconut milk has to be cooked. The coconut cream used in these recipes is UHT coconut cream which is very thick. Too much coconut milk in a curry or sambal makes a dish too rich besides being a cholesterol nightmare. However, too little will not bring out the flavours properly. The richness can be varied to suit personal tastes.

      Fermented Soya Beans: known as dou jiang and usually sold in jars with the soft fermented and salted soya beans doused in a brownish liquid. The beans are usually mashed before using.

      Galangal: Often measured by the thumb but it can also be measured by slices. Naturally, the measure can vary depending on the size of the root. However, it is not all that critical to get the quantity spot on.

      Kale: Known by its Chinese name, kai Ian, or